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XXW50 oils make your engine loose a little power from the oil pump because of a too high viscosity, that is what an oil engineer told me.
5W40 is perfect.
I use graphited engine oil + ceramic based oil addtitive in my MK2 Punto GT (133), I can hang on a 160hp Punto GT (1.7bar of boost pression)when I am behind my mate, he very hardly manages to go out.
http://www.costco.co.uk/http://www.costco.co.uk/
Have a look at the bottom for locations.
Its a like Macro but sells better stuff. Costs about £25 a year mambership, but its worth it.
[Edited by NIN-172 on 28 May 2004 at 9:15am]
[Edited by NIN-172 on 28 May 2004 at 9:18am]
Quote: Originally posted by BRUN on 28 May 2004
Quote: Originally posted by deuginthesky on 27 May 2004I can hang on a 160hp Punto GT (1.7bar of boost pression)[/QUOTE]never knew the Punto turbos could take so much boost ?..........and for that kind of boost, pretty sh1t power, only 160bhp
1.7bar is the peek pression, a kind of overboost, in reality its a delay in the open of the waste gate.
Constant pression is 1.3bar when you have 1.7bar of boost peek.
Pistons can hang on without problems up to 1.6bar, 1.7 is the limit, not to be used everyday when pushing the car at will.
Quote: Originally posted by NIN-172 on 28 May 2004
Get a decent 5-40. Ive seen a few people on here reccomending Silkolene.Anyone tried the Chevron stuff at Costco? its something like £12 for 4 or 5 litres of 5-40 Fully Synthetic.
Just wondered why its so cheap.
What are the specifications of this oil ? (API, car makers...)
My dad works in the oil/additive industry for a while, I know a bit about this stuff.
Quote: Originally posted by mr bognor on 28 May 2004
Got Mobil 1 15 w 50 in my car and is a full motor sport oil and is the best by far. If you push your car hard this oil is for you but it dont come cheep £ 55 for 5 litres. But like in all life you get what you pay 4 .
15W50 is useless IMHO.
Most of the engine weakening is made until 15 minutes after you start it. Its the standard time required for the oil to be at full working temperature.
The more fluid you oil is when cold, the faster every parts ou your engine are lubrified, for exemple the hydraulic valves tappets.
15W50 is good for endurance races, not for a road car IMO.
Millers competition CFS 10w/60 is what Ive used for the past few years . Needs changing fairly frequently , but that doesnt concern me .
Mr Bognor , what makes you think that Mobil1 15/50 is the best oil by far ?
Fiesta ST Stage 3
I have used some other oils in the past the liks of Castroal RS and Carlube triple R and They were good all the same but have looked in to moble 1 and seen that it is stand fit on the likes of Porsche and Ferrari ect and after using it for the last 6 months it is just the best by far .
Quote: Originally posted by mr bognor on 28 May 2004
<FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #407db6">I have used some other oils in the past the liks of Castroal RS and Carlube triple R and They were good all the same but have looked in to moble 1 and seen that it is stand fit on the likes of Porsche and Ferrari ect and after using it for the last 6 months it is just the best by far .
I doubt Ferrari uses Mobil 1 oil, considering they have a partnership with Shell.
15w50 is far from useless.
The correct oil grade to use is totally dependant on average ambient temps and peak engine oil temps you encounter.
In current summer weather a 15w50 is mroe than thin enough not to cause any wear issues, it can also handle high temps better, and in most cases is more shear stable.
However, its nto wise to run a 15w50 if you own an economy based motor which is run at sub zero temps.
Its all relative, and if you can keep your oil cool enough you can run a 10w40 everyday all day under any circumstances. But at the same time you can also look at a 10w40 as a poor oil, especially in mineral and semi synth state, due to the amount of VI improvers and polymers.
172, Tiguan
http://www.sbdev.co.uk/http://www.sbdev.co.uk/
Both had 2.0 xe engines, one had 210 hp on 48 webbers
My uncles had 230 on TBs. Soon to be 255 when it gets rebuilt. He is an instructor at Goodwood and a customer crashed it. Its been sitting in one of the hangers there for about a year, but now funds allow a new chassis has been ordered
Quote: Originally posted by BenR on 28 May 2004
[/QUOTE]15w50 is far from useless. The correct oil grade to use is totally dependant on average ambient temps and peak engine oil temps you encounter. In current summer weather a 15w50 is mroe than thin enough not to cause any wear issues, it can also handle high temps better, and in most cases is more shear stable. However, its nto wise to run a 15w50 if you own an economy based motor which is run at sub zero temps. Its all relative, and if you can keep your oil cool enough you can run a 10w40 everyday all day under any circumstances. But at the same time you can also look at a 10w40 as a poor oil, especially in mineral and semi synth state, due to the amount of VI improvers and polymers.
There is technically no need at all of a XXW50 oil even in summers with a stock engine.
Its even worse when autumn/winter comes, a 15WXX oil is ways to slow to come to full efficiency temperature.
Unless your engine takes high RPMs (well above the 7250 stock F4R max RPMs) fot a long time e.g Endurance races, 15W50 is useless.
If you feel better for your engine with XXW50 oils, then do it, but I can assure you your engine wont be better maintained with that kind of oil.
My engine is supposed to burn up to 0.8L of oil every 1000Kms (in extrem circumstances). Last summer, with a very hot weather in France like everywhere, I had almost no oil consumption with my 5W40 graphited oil, wheareas other people with XXW50 oils had to check more often their oil capacity.
Moreover, to get the best performance as possible, your oil has to be fluid, with XXW50 oils you lose a little power.
I know 10W40 semi-synthetic oils that match the last API specifications
Quote: Originally posted by bx16v on 29 May 2004
Renault recommands to use 5W40 100% synth oil for Sport 172/182 Clios.
I use this 5W40 with optimax of course!!
http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=uk-en&FC2=/uk-en/html/iwgen/shell_for_motorists/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/uk-en/tailored/shell_for_motorists/oils_lubricants/helix/product_pages/petrol_products_ga_0110.htmlhttp://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=uk-en&FC2=/uk-en/html/iwgen/shell_for_motorists/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/uk-en/tailored/shell_for_motorists/oils_lubricants/helix/product_pages/petrol_products_ga_0110.html
There is technically no need at all of a XXW50 oil even in summers with a stock engine.
Its even worse when autumn/winter comes, a 15WXX oil is ways to slow to come to full efficiency temperature.
Unless your engine takes high RPMs (well above the 7250 stock F4R max RPMs) fot a long time e.g Endurance races, 15W50 is useless.
If you feel better for your engine with XXW50 oils, then do it, but I can assure you your engine wont be better maintained with that kind of oil.
My engine is supposed to burn up to 0.8L of oil every 1000Kms (in extrem circumstances). Last summer, with a very hot weather in France like everywhere, I had almost no oil consumption with my 5W40 graphited oil, wheareas other people with XXW50 oils had to check more often their oil capacity.
Moreover, to get the best performance as possible, your oil has to be fluid, with XXW50 oils you lose a little power.
I know 10W40 semi-synthetic oils that match the last API specifications
