More weight loss...

[Ads29]

I'm basically doing exactly what @barnesautos has done, debating piggybacking the warning lamp into the abs wiring so it still illuminates (hate having warning lights on even though the car isn't road legal)

 

[Leslie Graham]

I don't have one , I just took the lot out , power and Earth go to loom joint behind glovebox , all other wires cut out . One goes to lamp in cluster , all others from ECU go to bags and sensors . Bin that lot .

Got pics or diagram bud?

 

[Ads29]

I have this simplified one, the principle is the same though just with less components than the sport versions.

16 is the airbag ecu
17, 18, 19, 20 are airbags

 

[barnesautos]

That's the one I have also

 

[Kieran527]

Are you all running with the airbag and SERV light on?
For track cars I mean................

 

[barnesautos]

Are you all running with the airbag and SERV light on?
For track cars I mean................

Nope

 

[barnesautos]

If yours is can networked like Ph2 then I'm assuming the light may come on after removal of ECU . Mine did as its a default to do that . Warning lamp line is earthed and boom she pings up .
But with all the wires now gone on mine the warning lamp line doesn't exist now , so no light at all .

 

[MarkX]

or just do what I did, bin the lot and have the dash lights in a little ignition fed timer that puts them on and off after a few seconds.......s**t you have to do to get an mot

 

[Leslie Graham]

So you quite literally disconnect airbag ecu and cut back wires? Is that it?
Dash lights don't annoy me in the slightest, non road legal anyhow

 

[MarkX]

So you quite literally disconnect airbag ecu and cut back wires? Is that it?
Dash lights don't annoy me in the slightest, non road legal anyhow

Yup, mine still goes lol

 

[Ben NBR Cup]

I don't have one , I just took the lot out , power and Earth go to loom joint behind glovebox , all other wires cut out . One goes to lamp in cluster , all others from ECU go to bags and sensors . Bin that lot .

Did you put a resistor in to turn the air bag light off or did you take the bulb out lol

 

[barnesautos]

Did you put a resistor in to turn the air bag light off or did you take the bulb out lol

Sorry I'm confused with your reply .
No resistors any more all gone .
Every single wire for the airbag gone .
Absolutely nothing left , oh except the bulb in the cluster which has no wire to it now lol

 

[Leslie Graham]

Yup, mine still goes lol

Excellent, cheers mark. I had concerns over bricking issues. I'll disconnect and turn over to make sure all ok. If all good it's more gone.
Idle hands and all that...

 

[Ben NBR Cup]

Sorry I'm confused with your reply .
No resistors any more all gone .
Every single wire for the airbag gone .
Absolutely nothing left , oh except the bulb in the cluster which has no wire to it now lol

Sorry matey half a sleep on that post lol how have you turned the air bag light off on your dash ? Because all the wires have gone for my air bag but the lights still on the dash ?

 

[Ads29]

You've taken out every wire @Ben NBR Cup? My thought was if it still stays on then I'll piggyback into the warning lamp for the abs so they'll come on and off together, my understanding though is that if all airbag associated wiring is gone then theres no power to the warning lamp? Maybe wrong though

 

[Leslie Graham]

You've taken out every wire @Ben NBR Cup? My thought was if it still stays on then I'll piggyback into the warning lamp for the abs so they'll come on and off together, my understanding though is that if all airbag associated wiring is gone then theres no power to the warning lamp? Maybe wrong though

Interested in this discussion.

 

[barnesautos]

Sorry matey half a sleep on that post lol how have you turned the air bag light off on your dash ? Because all the wires have gone for my air bag but the lights still on the dash ?

Is yours a Ph2 ? , if so the warning lamp may still be on over the multi plex , so I'd say the UCH needs to be told you don't have an airbag at all.

You've taken out every wire @Ben NBR Cup? My thought was if it still stays on then I'll piggyback into the warning lamp for the abs so they'll come on and off together, my understanding though is that if all airbag associated wiring is gone then theres no power to the warning lamp? Maybe wrong though

That will only work is the airbag warning lamp function correctly , in which case his is staying on , so if you connected to that circuit your ABS lamp wouldn't go off either .

 

[MarkX]

Interested in this discussion.

I can't fully answer that. My timer was there from when I first removed the pretensioners and air bags. I've since gone further and removed the Ecu and stripped the loom back, timer is still in there

 

[Ben NBR Cup]

You've taken out every wire @Ben NBR Cup? My thought was if it still stays on then I'll piggyback into the warning lamp for the abs so they'll come on and off together, my understanding though is that if all airbag associated wiring is gone then theres no power to the warning lamp? Maybe wrong though

You are right matey come to think about it I have gone to the fuse box took the wires out the back of that and stopped therefor the car thinks there's an open circuit bringing the light on. But all the air bag sensors and ECU bits have gone it's just the wires from the dash back. I could of done with your wiring diagram would of made my life so much easier. Strange thing is it doesn't bring a fault code up when plugged into my obd reader.
My mistake everyone sorry

 

[Leslie Graham]

I can't fully answer that. My timer was there from when I first removed the pretensioners and air bags. I've since gone further and removed the Ecu and stripped the loom back, timer is still in there :smile:

Any more work planned Mark?

 

[Ads29]

That will only work is the airbag warning lamp function correctly , in which case his is staying on , so if you connected to that circuit your ABS lamp wouldn't go off either .

If you were to take the wire from the airbag lamp illumination, cut it and piggyback it to another warning lamp that comes on and off with ignition (I only say abs as it's the first one that springs to mind) would that not bypass the warning lamp? And the lights come on and off together? The violet wire coming from the airbag ecu to the dash cluster is only there to illuminate when the airbag ecu senses a fault is present, so surely if the wire is cut and then joined into a seperate circuit then the lamp would be controlled by the circuit its piggybacked into rather than its own?

Or am I going down completely the wrong path

 

[MarkX]

Any more work planned Mark?

I'm thinking about ditching the rest of the interior/roof liner, my loom's as skinny as it can be as I need the locks etc Next hurdle is mot next month, I think I'm just going to put it through with the polys and chance it :grimacing:

 

[Kieran527]

I know were going slightly off topic here, but airbags!
I have a ph2, with all airbags removed and resistors put in place, but the airbag and SERV light are on, they wont go off.
I dont want them on, I want them gone, just so the SERV light is still operable for other faults that may occur.
So if people havent been succesfull with the resistor trick, is the next stage remove airbag ECU and all associated wiring, then remove the feed to the light on the dash? And this will also remove the SERV light?

 

[Rubicon_]

Simpler way is to just stick some back tape over the light, job done

 

[barnesautos]

If you were to take the wire from the airbag lamp illumination, cut it and piggyback it to another warning lamp that comes on and off with ignition (I only say abs as it's the first one that springs to mind) would that not bypass the warning lamp? And the lights come on and off together? The violet wire coming from the airbag ecu to the dash cluster is only there to illuminate when the airbag ecu senses a fault is present, so surely if the wire is cut and then joined into a seperate circuit then the lamp would be controlled by the circuit its piggybacked into rather than its own?

Or am I going down completely the wrong path

That in theory should work, the two circuits joined into one control .
Trial and error I guess .

 

[barnesautos]

I know were going slightly off topic here, but airbags!
I have a ph2, with all airbags removed and resistors put in place, but the airbag and SERV light are on, they wont go off.
I dont want them on, I want them gone, just so the SERV light is still operable for other faults that may occur.
So if people havent been succesfull with the resistor trick, is the next stage remove airbag ECU and all associated wiring, then remove the feed to the light on the dash? And this will also remove the SERV light?

What happens when you take the No1 fuse out ?

 

[Leslie Graham]

I'm thinking about ditching the rest of the interior/roof liner, my loom's as skinny as it can be as I need the locks etc :smile: Next hurdle is mot next month, I think I'm just going to put it through with the polys and chance it :grimacing:

I'd imagine you should be fine with poly windows. Most rally machines have them and must be road legal between stages.
We do however live in red tape stone age good old Norn Iron though.

 

[MarkX]

I'd imagine you should be fine with poly windows. Most rally machines have them and must be road legal between stages.
We do however live in red tape stone age good old Norn Iron though.

I've already been told by one tester that over here the front door Windows must be glass, no fixed polys :grin:

 

[Leslie Graham]

I've already been told by one tester that over here the front door Windows must be glass, no fixed polys :grin:

Surprised at that, but I'd be questioning them. Kenny McKinstrys cars all had poly windows and all through MOT, he's only up the road from me.
Check MSA rules, if they have polys you're grand and can quote them...

 

[mikekean]

No way id gut my doors, until you have had a big crash in one of these cars you wont appreciate how structural the door is to the car. Your removing such a small amount of weight its not even worthwhile, you will probably find changing one wheel for a lightweight one will net you more than the saving you gained from gutting a door.

 

[Leslie Graham]

No way id gut my doors, until you have had a big crash in one of these cars you wont appreciate how structural the door is to the car. Your removing such a small amount of weight its not even worthwhile, you will probably find changing one wheel for a lightweight one will net you more than the saving you gained from gutting a door.

That's why the cage is in bud.
There's a massive amount to be removed from doors.
I'd rather have cage protecting me bud.
Currently building Autograss car too and they literally have only outer skin in place, but a double bar brace on cage in its place

 

[Leslie Graham]

Side impact bars for autograss, only outer skin remains. Fully solid 33mm throughout.

 

[Leslie Graham]

Bit of tidying to do but getting there

 

[scotiamr2t]

now that is a stripped out interior. It looks to be done well, but if i'm honest i quite like having the dash in my car

 

[L_murra]

Interested in the air bag loom removal ... may have got a bit happy with the snips last night and now the car won't start ......

 

[Leslie Graham]

Interested in the air bag loom removal ... may have got a bit happy with the snips last night and now the car won't start ......

Check, cut, start... One wire at a time.
All airbag wiring should be easily identified with yellow plugs. Never cut a number of wires together, you may need to rejoin them

 

[L_murra]

Yeah lesson learnt ! Know what I'm doing tonight ! The car tries to turn over sometimes then other times nothing .. can't hear the fuel pump either and the emobilser light stays on

 

[Ads29]

Yeah lesson learnt ! Know what I'm doing tonight ! The car tries to turn over sometimes then other times nothing .. can't hear the fuel pump either and the emobilser light stays on

My loom has been cut down for nearly a year now, had no troubles until 2 weeks ago when the car wouldn't start the day before loading it up for first track day of the year.

Exactly the same symptoms as you've described @L_murra, turned out to be corrosion on the immobiliser relay in the engine bay fuse box. It's one of the three mini relays (5 pin black plugs) I pulled them all out and cleaned up the pins, then put them back in, in a different order. Car now starts fine everytime.

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[L_murra]

My loom has been cut down for nearly a year now, had no troubles until 2 weeks ago when the car wouldn't start the day before loading it up for first track day of the year.

Exactly the same symptoms as you've described @L_murra, turned out to be corrosion on the immobiliser relay in the engine bay fuse box. It's one of the three mini relays (5 pin black plugs) I pulled them all out and cleaned up the pins, then put them back in, in a different order. Car now starts fine everytime.

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The joys ! I'll start by trying to rectify my hacking at the cables first then see what happens ! one cable I remember cutting was a twisted set that were joint into the same cable going into obd and to the clip from air bag Ecu?

 

[Leslie Graham]

Check plug to fuel pump at drivers side heel. May look connected but check its well pushed together. Caught me out