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Most expensive breakers ever
- Thread starter smokeybone
- Start date
Yeah - but the manufacturer is 'TROPHY'. That's got to add man points and £££££ right there......
D.
Funnily enough, a mate rang me today to tell me about this guy.
''Dan, I know you're into clio's but you need to see what this bloke is advertising stuff for! He must be on crack!''
I explained to him that he most probably is on crack.
''Dan, I know you're into clio's but you need to see what this bloke is advertising stuff for! He must be on crack!''
I explained to him that he most probably is on crack.
Sunflower Ph1 172
wow, wasn't quite expecting such a spirited response. I'll be honest with you though, I didn't quite understand that sentence I highlighted there, think you may have changed your mind halfway through writing it. (That isn't a dig by the way)
What I was trying to say is, if you were going to fit a new engine into a 1*2 it's likely you'll either buy a second hand engine, or 'refresh' an engine like you've stated. If you were to go as far as you've pointed out for a 'complete rebuild' on a 1*2 then you'd have to have more money than sense, and you'd probably be better off just ordering an engine straight from Renaultsport.
Just had my engine 'freshened up' - Block honed and decked, head skimmed, new rings, bearings gaskets, bolts, seals, belts etc etc. Ok to say it would be a 'zero' miler is perhaps an exaggeration, but it would still be in much better condition than any second hand engine you'd pick up. Once run in I'm pretty sure it'll perform just as well as a brand new engine.
Just in case you misinterpret my reply, I'm not pretending to be some 'engine pro'.
Price it up mate.
Although im not saying you'd sell it all in a weekend or that I think its a good idea to start doing it, there are more profitable cars out there to break, but yes it would see that figure, even a snotty 600 quid phase one will break for 1500 quid+ if you are patient with the smaller stuff, so when you start adding in panels in a colour people will pay a premium for in order to avoid having to have paintwork done, and all the modified bits like the sachs dampers, and spoiler and seats etc, not to mention its a 182 so the manifold and cat are worth money etc, exhaust if its not rotten is worth a few quid, etc etc.
I agree with that! I've had 2 F4R's rehoned, both time by the same company and i think they were a little liberal both times. There is audible pistons slap when cold when you load up the engine at low revs (pulling away in 1st), to be fair you average person wouldnt even hear it, but it happened identically both times and it does irritate me when you can hear it. When i put my meggy pistons in i will use another untouched block and take the very bare minimum material away myself with a flexhone i think.
Seriously tempted now, as mine is hardly worth anything, you certainly can't sell sentimental value.
Oh, I meant to add "and thats before you even mention measuring the crank properly and deciding if you need a new one of them too, cause the money you go and get it ground it is FAR inferior to original, I wouldnt ever call a ground crank a proper rebuild personally.
No worries mate, was just the zero miler thing that made it sound like you didnt realise all the ways it would be inferior to a new engine.
Yeah you can freshen one up fairly well for a grand, we just did ours for about 1600 quid IIRC and that included stuff like ARP head studs, ARP rod bolts, and new supertech valves, so more than is in a usual "freshen up"
I used a flexhone on the one I have just rebuilt, still takes a fair amount off TBH, which it needs to if you are going to get a good finish to bed the rings in.
Let me know if you want to borrow it as they are dear in this country and take ages from the states, and its not like im likely to be using it the same time as you, only use it a few times a year at most in that size.
I think theres a fine balance to meet when doing it and staying with stock size pistons. How you know how many strokes to do? Also that is a very kind offer to lend the flexhone i did have a look online, and like you say they arent exactly cheap for a tool your only (hopefully) going to use once, i will send you a PM closer to the time when im building up the new bottom end
Um, I dont really know how I know how many times to do it, just kind of how ive learned over the years I guess, I just kind of doing it for a few seconds and then check it looks right, if it ever didnt I would do it again but it always does, seems a relatively hard thing to get wrong TBH
Mind you, you do have to properly move it in and out quickly when you do it though, its almost like you are using a hacksaw, lol
If you pause still and let it spin, it wont be good as you will get circular grooves not crosshatch.
Mind you, you do have to properly move it in and out quickly when you do it though, its almost like you are using a hacksaw, lol
If you pause still and let it spin, it wont be good as you will get circular grooves not crosshatch.
Sunflower Ph1 172
Ended up using a different crank, didn't get it ground.
Good plan, reground cranks are a bit of a bodge really, I try and avoid them if I can. (not always easy sometimes I have a ground one in my cossie engine in fact, as I even with 500 quid to spend I couldnt find a mint unground one in time)
