Adey.
ClioSport Club Member
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Replacement transmission shift module Clio RS
- Thread starter GtirHil
- Start date
Adey.
ClioSport Club Member
So.... I've driven the car to London this morning 🤦🏻♂️ 3 times it had the gearbox issue, i think I've figured if you ask it to shift quickly it does it and faults. But light throttle and slow changes it's seemingly OK....
It did also, on 5 occasions hit me with a quick flash of the stop for a charging issue.
So currently my thought is, the smart charging module thing is failing or the alternator...
Got a 130mile drive back yet to ponder on it.
Wish me luck
It did also, on 5 occasions hit me with a quick flash of the stop for a charging issue.
So currently my thought is, the smart charging module thing is failing or the alternator...
Got a 130mile drive back yet to ponder on it.
Wish me luck
Sorry - wrong button!
A lot of people have partly cured the issue with a new battery or other things to do with the charging system. I'm not sure what the capacitor does. It may smooth current drain or it may help to provide extra juice to trigger gear shifts etc. Or both. The thing is that putting in a new battery or similar may largely mask a failing capacitor. A lot of times a new battery only makes the problem go away for a while.
I'm probably talking rubbish. And I'm sure that the failures are not always the same cause. If it's only one gear train, then probably it's not the capacitor. Though when a system becomes marginal, the weakest component fails first ...
And I think that the fuel (or horse power) saving from the battery management system is ridiculous when compared with the cost (and environmental impact) of batteries. Lead acid accumulators like to be kept fully charged.
A lot of people have partly cured the issue with a new battery or other things to do with the charging system. I'm not sure what the capacitor does. It may smooth current drain or it may help to provide extra juice to trigger gear shifts etc. Or both. The thing is that putting in a new battery or similar may largely mask a failing capacitor. A lot of times a new battery only makes the problem go away for a while.
I'm probably talking rubbish. And I'm sure that the failures are not always the same cause. If it's only one gear train, then probably it's not the capacitor. Though when a system becomes marginal, the weakest component fails first ...
And I think that the fuel (or horse power) saving from the battery management system is ridiculous when compared with the cost (and environmental impact) of batteries. Lead acid accumulators like to be kept fully charged.
Adey.
ClioSport Club Member
Indeed found similar hen looking, for ref the oem items are made by Epcos
40v 2200uf b41694s5228
40v 2200uf b41694s5228
Could you send link please?
And has this worked? Rs?
Adey.
ClioSport Club Member
Just updating here, I purchased a TCU, was programmed but looks to be programmed for a non-RS car. Also didnt work and gave gearbox faults within 100 meters...
So I am now trying my original TCU with a replacement capacitor, wish me luck, I will update here and in my build thread
So I am now trying my original TCU with a replacement capacitor, wish me luck, I will update here and in my build thread
Adey.
ClioSport Club Member
Just the varnish on them, up close they looked fine to me 🤷
2003 Clio sport 172
Gday aussie here having the same issue. The unit I bought from China unit came with the incorrect firmware. Have you gotten yours working? I was thinking of just swapping the boards with the firmware and seeing if that fixes it. I also would like to know how you separated the boards?
Adey.
ClioSport Club Member
Didn't work for me, had the incorrect firmware, I threw my toys out of the pram and fitted a tcu from a breaker. Working fine now. Pretty sure you remove 6 screws and the top pcb board pulls off the bottom one.
My RS TCU is still working fine after replacing the capacitor. We've been driving the car everyday.
Original boards (so correct programming) with new capacitor and servo side. But the servos look foolproof. So it would seem that the new capacitor fixed it, as above.
We just drove about 350 km to the coast and back with no hiccups.
Touch wood ...
Well, for full discluosure, we are showing a "check antipollution system error" but my best OBD2 analysis suggests either cat failure or failure of the lower O2 sensor.
Original boards (so correct programming) with new capacitor and servo side. But the servos look foolproof. So it would seem that the new capacitor fixed it, as above.
We just drove about 350 km to the coast and back with no hiccups.
Touch wood ...
Well, for full discluosure, we are showing a "check antipollution system error" but my best OBD2 analysis suggests either cat failure or failure of the lower O2 sensor.
2003 Clio sport 172
Guess I'll try swapping the capacitor and then the boards I'll update when I finish and let anyone know if it worked.
I tried reinstalling the original but it was displaying 0v in pyren so I couldn't perform the man replacement and the shift lock didn't disengage either ugh.
I tried reinstalling the original but it was displaying 0v in pyren so I couldn't perform the man replacement and the shift lock didn't disengage either ugh.
Adey.
ClioSport Club Member
i think there are a varying level of faults in these, all heat or age related.
Capacitor didn't work for myself and neither did the import tcu, that said it might be perfect but just needs the correct data flashing on it. May look into this for the future when my replacement TCU eventually fails
Capacitor didn't work for myself and neither did the import tcu, that said it might be perfect but just needs the correct data flashing on it. May look into this for the future when my replacement TCU eventually fails
Also suffering from transmission issues on my Red 2014 Clio RS, presumably similar TCU failure. Slipped in 5th gear on the freeway a couple weeks ago under light acceleration, and then again a couple days ago in 5th under heavy acceleration (after 2 weeks of 0 issues with somewhat gentle driving). Am going to attempt gearbox oil change, battery change (probably), and will take the car to a shop next week to get a diagnosis.
Assuming it is the TCU (quite confident that it is either this or worn clutch), I'll also give the capacitor fix a go, might have to ask one of you lot for specifics on how to do so. I'll provide an update on whether it worked for my TCU or not.
Appreciate all the detailed posts, makes it easier for the rest of us trying to fix our own rubbish electronics.
Assuming it is the TCU (quite confident that it is either this or worn clutch), I'll also give the capacitor fix a go, might have to ask one of you lot for specifics on how to do so. I'll provide an update on whether it worked for my TCU or not.
Appreciate all the detailed posts, makes it easier for the rest of us trying to fix our own rubbish electronics.
2003 Clio sport 172
Good evening all!
My journey so far...
I attempted over and over again to re teach the TCM with no luck on my original. I tried the Chinese one , it was programmed with 1.2l nugget clios. I have since submitted a return as no mechanic wants to even try in my area, I suggest if you can find a seller make sure you confirm via vin number or explicitly says 1.6l turbo RS 200. I purchased a TCM from a wrecked 2014 RS 200(I have a 2016) and it started up straight away, I had to clear the codes and turn on an off for the gear box to "reteach" it's self I assume but since it's worked. I will send an update if this wrecked TCM fails. My next task with this Clio is a new A/C compressor as the air-conditioning doesn't work past 27°c (specific I know) hopefully I can get this portion fixed before summer hits here in aus.
Hopefully someone comes across this post and tries a wrecked part before getting a Chinese one of they are unsure.
My journey so far...
I attempted over and over again to re teach the TCM with no luck on my original. I tried the Chinese one , it was programmed with 1.2l nugget clios. I have since submitted a return as no mechanic wants to even try in my area, I suggest if you can find a seller make sure you confirm via vin number or explicitly says 1.6l turbo RS 200. I purchased a TCM from a wrecked 2014 RS 200(I have a 2016) and it started up straight away, I had to clear the codes and turn on an off for the gear box to "reteach" it's self I assume but since it's worked. I will send an update if this wrecked TCM fails. My next task with this Clio is a new A/C compressor as the air-conditioning doesn't work past 27°c (specific I know) hopefully I can get this portion fixed before summer hits here in aus.
Hopefully someone comes across this post and tries a wrecked part before getting a Chinese one of they are unsure.
Adey.
ClioSport Club Member
Decided to do some more tinkering and digging around. Opted to buy myself some kit that allows me to bench flash and obd flash many ecus, but also the dc4 getrag TCU!
If you remember I had my original TCU fail, bought a Chinese supplied item but it didn't work correctly and i was told it had the incorrect software on. I then purchased a complete 2017 box and TCU, fitted that and had it mapped by scoff at EFI with a few more changes.
I think I've now been able to pull the TCU file off both my current TCU (through obd) and my original TCU (on the bench) and flashed the Chinese TCU with my original file. I may try the later one from the trophy if the hardware codes match up. So hopefully, all being well I now have a new TCU with the correct software on, just need to fit it and try it I guess.....
If you remember I had my original TCU fail, bought a Chinese supplied item but it didn't work correctly and i was told it had the incorrect software on. I then purchased a complete 2017 box and TCU, fitted that and had it mapped by scoff at EFI with a few more changes.
I think I've now been able to pull the TCU file off both my current TCU (through obd) and my original TCU (on the bench) and flashed the Chinese TCU with my original file. I may try the later one from the trophy if the hardware codes match up. So hopefully, all being well I now have a new TCU with the correct software on, just need to fit it and try it I guess.....
2003 Clio sport 172
That'll be great if you get it working maybe throw a link to the hardware and software you used?
Small update on my cars journey...
About 3 weeks ago, i suffered the full 'check auto gearbox' error being thrown for the first time, with the car unable to use 1st/3rd/5th gears at all. Issue was solved after turning car off and on (mid traffic light😬)
Took the car to Vintage Affaire, with my main cited issues being random transmission disengagement in 5th/3rd, and also a noticeable lack of power in 1st, 3rd and 5th (only sometimes - seems to happen in Race mode the most? Maybe when jts still a bit cold?) They cleared the single code that was appearing (DTC186262 - Clutch 1 torque error, couldnt find a SINGLE relevant post online), but they didnt really know what it meant (they expected both clutches to have errors, + possible gearbox specific errror, jf it was the TCU) and referred me to Barry Bourke Renault dealership. After clearing the code, the car was fine for 2 days til the slipping occurred again.... although, actually, the car has been WAY better the past 2 weeks - only disengaged maybe 3 times? And only lost power a couple tjmes too, otherwise driving wonderfully.
Took it to Steve at Barry Bourke Renault today, lovely guy. Hes just said yep, jt needs full TCU replacement, thatll be 4k, possible clutch issue afterward, you never know. I said no thanks, no money atm (actually true☹️). That'll be my last resort. So, finally having confirmed the issue with renault, ill get around to trying the fixes you guys have posted soon. Will update accordingly
About 3 weeks ago, i suffered the full 'check auto gearbox' error being thrown for the first time, with the car unable to use 1st/3rd/5th gears at all. Issue was solved after turning car off and on (mid traffic light😬)
Took the car to Vintage Affaire, with my main cited issues being random transmission disengagement in 5th/3rd, and also a noticeable lack of power in 1st, 3rd and 5th (only sometimes - seems to happen in Race mode the most? Maybe when jts still a bit cold?) They cleared the single code that was appearing (DTC186262 - Clutch 1 torque error, couldnt find a SINGLE relevant post online), but they didnt really know what it meant (they expected both clutches to have errors, + possible gearbox specific errror, jf it was the TCU) and referred me to Barry Bourke Renault dealership. After clearing the code, the car was fine for 2 days til the slipping occurred again.... although, actually, the car has been WAY better the past 2 weeks - only disengaged maybe 3 times? And only lost power a couple tjmes too, otherwise driving wonderfully.
Took it to Steve at Barry Bourke Renault today, lovely guy. Hes just said yep, jt needs full TCU replacement, thatll be 4k, possible clutch issue afterward, you never know. I said no thanks, no money atm (actually true☹️). That'll be my last resort. So, finally having confirmed the issue with renault, ill get around to trying the fixes you guys have posted soon. Will update accordingly
2003 Clio sport 172
Try and get a second hand one first lol it's an easy install
Adey.
ClioSport Club Member
indeed, fitting is super simple, you will need to reset all the adaptations once done though
Hi
Well, it got hot here and at 35 degrees with the aircon turned on, I lost gears 1-3-5. Check auto gearbox error. So this weekend I chucked a new capacitor in there, as the previous one came with the used Chinese TCU. I just took it for an ENTIRELY LEGAL burn around this corner of town and not a hiccup. But it is only 19 degrees today. Last time it failed it was also hot as it was earlier in the week when it died. So we'll have to see as summer progresses.
Here is my synopsis: these TCUs run on the ragged edge all the time. They don't like heat. But the real problem (as I see it) is that the TCU is borderline powerful enough to drive the gearbox. If the capacitor performance drops off, if the aircon is on, if the battery is less than 100%, if the gearbox oil gets thick, if it is hot ... Any of the things that users have reported. At that time, if you replace the weakest link in the chain, then it runs again. In fact mine ran fine to get home after I turned the aircon off. More juice to drive the finicky beast.
I can't help wondering whether somebody could build a much more powerful driver for the clutch and gear motors that sits between the brains and the bits that do the work.
Well, it got hot here and at 35 degrees with the aircon turned on, I lost gears 1-3-5. Check auto gearbox error. So this weekend I chucked a new capacitor in there, as the previous one came with the used Chinese TCU. I just took it for an ENTIRELY LEGAL burn around this corner of town and not a hiccup. But it is only 19 degrees today. Last time it failed it was also hot as it was earlier in the week when it died. So we'll have to see as summer progresses.
Here is my synopsis: these TCUs run on the ragged edge all the time. They don't like heat. But the real problem (as I see it) is that the TCU is borderline powerful enough to drive the gearbox. If the capacitor performance drops off, if the aircon is on, if the battery is less than 100%, if the gearbox oil gets thick, if it is hot ... Any of the things that users have reported. At that time, if you replace the weakest link in the chain, then it runs again. In fact mine ran fine to get home after I turned the aircon off. More juice to drive the finicky beast.
I can't help wondering whether somebody could build a much more powerful driver for the clutch and gear motors that sits between the brains and the bits that do the work.
And I wonder whether it is the clutch servos that cause problems in hot weather? A typical clutch has no pressure on thr release bearing when the gear is fully engaged (foot off the clutch pedal). These are the opposite: it takes power to keep the clutch engaged. I wonder how much power it takes to keep the clutch engaged while you are driving? Is it possible that the motors overheat? I expect (with no proof) that it takes much more power to keep a clutch engaged than to keep a shifting motor stopped when a gear is engaged?
Have people seen this series of postings? lDiagrams of the DCT
Have people seen this series of postings? lDiagrams of the DCT
But we don't really know whether the mechanisms die or the sensors do? Does it really fail to engage a gear or does it just think that it has, perhaps because things expand in the heat? I can say that I got a lot of noise from gears being selected/sorted out when I turned the car on later. But again, were the gears not selected it was it correcting problems that didn't exist?
Adey.
ClioSport Club Member
I think its a failure on the pcb itself, the gears are very robust, and don't have any resistance. Also the gears that do the shifting in the box have very little too when you move them by hand. I think there maybe multiple failure modes, the capacitor swap didn't work for me but has for others. Age heat and expansion dont lend themselves to multi layer pcbs and their components
I'm still yet to try my DIY flashed Chinese TCU as I'm still running on the later trophy item with no issues. Maybe they fixed the issue in the later ones? the later tCU is defo a different part number 🤷♂️
I'm still yet to try my DIY flashed Chinese TCU as I'm still running on the later trophy item with no issues. Maybe they fixed the issue in the later ones? the later tCU is defo a different part number 🤷♂️
In general I agree. They should have put all the PCBs out of that module, somewhere cool. The gears do offer little resistance. Does it know the gear position just from the motor steps or are there sensors? How does it detect clutch slip? It could compare engine RPM against road speed in a particular gear. In the various Youtubes I have not seen sensors in the box.
The capactor swap ran mine for more than a year, but that doesn't prove a lot.
I'm sure that I'll be looking at a new TCU soon. I could look around for a used one and try flashing, but they disappear pretty fast.
The capactor swap ran mine for more than a year, but that doesn't prove a lot.
I'm sure that I'll be looking at a new TCU soon. I could look around for a used one and try flashing, but they disappear pretty fast.
Renault Clio RS220
Hi everyone, so it seems all of these cars going to suffer the same fate eventually mine is a 2017 RS220 Trophy, and issue with gearbox started 2 weeks ago, lost 2,4,6, R and pretty much inline with that is happening to others, i checked all the plugs, changed the actuators around and drove the car, every time it's ok when cold and as soon as it hot and using manual mode (sport) then it fails, if i reset the fault code it will work again till it decides it's time to really make me mad.
So now need to see what options I have open, either take it out and open it up , resolder all those points as it seems to be a common issue, or start looking at replacement parts which i see you can get, new TCM is out of the question here in South-Africa as they sell for ridiculous amount of money.
Any other ideas would be very helpful ..... what i have noticed is that oil temps get pretty high and wondering if all of this is not having an effect on the car or possibly have a different issue ??
So now need to see what options I have open, either take it out and open it up , resolder all those points as it seems to be a common issue, or start looking at replacement parts which i see you can get, new TCM is out of the question here in South-Africa as they sell for ridiculous amount of money.
Any other ideas would be very helpful ..... what i have noticed is that oil temps get pretty high and wondering if all of this is not having an effect on the car or possibly have a different issue ??
Hi Jacques. I don't know what to say, partly because I'm not an expert. Perhaps you need to consider the clutches. Replacing those is pretty expensive but maybe labour is cheaper in SA. If you have a clutch worn out then no amount of TCM fiddling will fix it. Is it possible that a high gearbox temp might result from a clutch slipping? Sadly the clutches are also awfully expensive. I think that it would be clutch 2, furthest from the engine, for those gears.
I THINK that we are generally agreed that the shift actuators are pretty robust and that shifting is pretty easy, so it is unlikely to be one of those failing.
I replaced the capacitor and it gave me more than another year, but not everybody has the same experience. I think that the problem is most likely to come from the TCM but I haven't seen anybody point at a particular component in the TCM. It was suggested in an earlier post that it was due to multilayer PCBs being heat intolerant. That would be very hard to fix. It could be a bad connection somewhere. I recently tried to get the top PCB out of the TCM but was left with the distinct feeling that it was unlikely to survive the process.
You could try to get a TCM from China but it is all our experience that they are not for the more rare RS. So you would have to embrace reprogramming one (see above).
I wonder if you could find a tuner shop that would copy your code from your old box to a new one? If it's not a clutch worn out, that might be your best option using a Chinese TCM.
Sorry not to be more helpful.
I THINK that we are generally agreed that the shift actuators are pretty robust and that shifting is pretty easy, so it is unlikely to be one of those failing.
I replaced the capacitor and it gave me more than another year, but not everybody has the same experience. I think that the problem is most likely to come from the TCM but I haven't seen anybody point at a particular component in the TCM. It was suggested in an earlier post that it was due to multilayer PCBs being heat intolerant. That would be very hard to fix. It could be a bad connection somewhere. I recently tried to get the top PCB out of the TCM but was left with the distinct feeling that it was unlikely to survive the process.
You could try to get a TCM from China but it is all our experience that they are not for the more rare RS. So you would have to embrace reprogramming one (see above).
I wonder if you could find a tuner shop that would copy your code from your old box to a new one? If it's not a clutch worn out, that might be your best option using a Chinese TCM.
Sorry not to be more helpful.
Renault Clio RS220
Renault Clio RS220
Hi, well it definitely seems like there might be more than one specific issue with the TCM ... I do no believe the clutches are fried at 70000km's they still feel perfect no shudder, no slip and when the TCM isn't acting up it drives perfectly. Gearchanges are fine as well ... only race mode does it feel slightly grabby but i guess it's because it's a fairly aggressive map for the gearbox.
I have been checking all the TCM repairs for this specific box that is used by Ford as well and they all suffer the same failures, the Ford owners have done some extensive video's on repairs etc. They mostly end up soldering the connections on the top board as it seems that this is a common point of failure and then you get others that end up replacing the mosfets. Ford also had an extended warranty they gave all the owners driving cars fitted with the same box in an effort to assist them when these TCM fails. (I don't think Renault has something like this in place nor would they possibly assist)
A few observations, with the TCM not been 100% i have seen my clutch temps rise to higher temps this is concerning as it would mean if I kept on driving the car like this even while it's not yet in limp mode the system would destroy the clutches completely. Also i am not sure what the max temp of the OIl must be as i cannot find a baseline reading anywhere, not can i find a document to state what the clutch temps should be.
The hunt continues with finding a solution that will not break the bank or turn this car into a paper weight that will just stand in my garage.
I have been checking all the TCM repairs for this specific box that is used by Ford as well and they all suffer the same failures, the Ford owners have done some extensive video's on repairs etc. They mostly end up soldering the connections on the top board as it seems that this is a common point of failure and then you get others that end up replacing the mosfets. Ford also had an extended warranty they gave all the owners driving cars fitted with the same box in an effort to assist them when these TCM fails. (I don't think Renault has something like this in place nor would they possibly assist)
A few observations, with the TCM not been 100% i have seen my clutch temps rise to higher temps this is concerning as it would mean if I kept on driving the car like this even while it's not yet in limp mode the system would destroy the clutches completely. Also i am not sure what the max temp of the OIl must be as i cannot find a baseline reading anywhere, not can i find a document to state what the clutch temps should be.
The hunt continues with finding a solution that will not break the bank or turn this car into a paper weight that will just stand in my garage.
megane 285 sport
Ford tcm but interesting video
OK - here is where I am now.
I took it to a local garage. They got back to me and said about $11,000 for a new TCM and clutches. We had a bit of a row. I said that there was no evidence that it needed a clutch. In fact, after drilling holes in the bell-housing and inspecting the clutches, they didn't look too bad. Though I never did find specs for how thick the friction plates should be. The mechanic said that the TCM was reporting clutch errors. I said that I had performed the factory (Luk) recommended test of locking it in high gear and booting it up hill and seen no evidence of clutch slip. They said that they had told the previous owner to replace the clutch and that they had told me the same more than a year before. I said that their diagnosis was rubbish because they said that it was slipping in bottom and reverse. Cars always slip first in the HIGH gears. And the clutch had reset itself and I'd been driving it for a year since. No juddering. No burning. They said that the diagnosis reported clutch errors. I said that since the diagnosis came through a TCM that was known to be knackered, how could they believe it?
However I agreed that at 130K on what we believed to be the original clutches, excessive wear was certainly a possibility. And the big plug onto the TCM had been broken by a previous owner so that needed replacing with its loom. They wouldn't warranty the TCM with a broken plug. I thought that I was on thin ice here, so I agreed to get a new loom and TCM. 8 weeks for a loom from France. When that was done, I'd pay the extra labour for redoing the TCM if we then had to put new clutches in. By this point I was chatting with a mechanic, not "service". So my car sat there.
A few days ago I paid the rest of the $5,700 bill (I had to pay about $4,500 in advance when they ordered the parts) and got my car back. At the moment it drives fine. With the original clutches. We'll see how it goes. They charged me $48 for the two 'O' rings for the TCM install!
I shouldn't have got stroppy with them. But it was the way that they calmly told me to spend about $11,000 and wouldn't listen to a word that I said. I first helped to rebuild an engine in 1967 and have rebuilt many since. The basic physics remain the same. And 4 hours labour to put in a TCM! Wow! So they said that I could buy the TCM and do it myself. I said that No I couldn't, because of their proprietary software ...
In the end they seem to have done a good job and I'll sacrifice a hamster for the clutches. Actually I was fully prepared to put in new clutches. It will need them soon and parts are not going to get cheaper or more avalable. Oh, I'd asked for the parts back. Though I really only wanted the clutches back if they took them out. But they couldn't find the parts because the mechanic had quit. I just laughed. My son did a full mechanic's training and then quit!
I took it to a local garage. They got back to me and said about $11,000 for a new TCM and clutches. We had a bit of a row. I said that there was no evidence that it needed a clutch. In fact, after drilling holes in the bell-housing and inspecting the clutches, they didn't look too bad. Though I never did find specs for how thick the friction plates should be. The mechanic said that the TCM was reporting clutch errors. I said that I had performed the factory (Luk) recommended test of locking it in high gear and booting it up hill and seen no evidence of clutch slip. They said that they had told the previous owner to replace the clutch and that they had told me the same more than a year before. I said that their diagnosis was rubbish because they said that it was slipping in bottom and reverse. Cars always slip first in the HIGH gears. And the clutch had reset itself and I'd been driving it for a year since. No juddering. No burning. They said that the diagnosis reported clutch errors. I said that since the diagnosis came through a TCM that was known to be knackered, how could they believe it?
However I agreed that at 130K on what we believed to be the original clutches, excessive wear was certainly a possibility. And the big plug onto the TCM had been broken by a previous owner so that needed replacing with its loom. They wouldn't warranty the TCM with a broken plug. I thought that I was on thin ice here, so I agreed to get a new loom and TCM. 8 weeks for a loom from France. When that was done, I'd pay the extra labour for redoing the TCM if we then had to put new clutches in. By this point I was chatting with a mechanic, not "service". So my car sat there.
A few days ago I paid the rest of the $5,700 bill (I had to pay about $4,500 in advance when they ordered the parts) and got my car back. At the moment it drives fine. With the original clutches. We'll see how it goes. They charged me $48 for the two 'O' rings for the TCM install!
I shouldn't have got stroppy with them. But it was the way that they calmly told me to spend about $11,000 and wouldn't listen to a word that I said. I first helped to rebuild an engine in 1967 and have rebuilt many since. The basic physics remain the same. And 4 hours labour to put in a TCM! Wow! So they said that I could buy the TCM and do it myself. I said that No I couldn't, because of their proprietary software ...
In the end they seem to have done a good job and I'll sacrifice a hamster for the clutches. Actually I was fully prepared to put in new clutches. It will need them soon and parts are not going to get cheaper or more avalable. Oh, I'd asked for the parts back. Though I really only wanted the clutches back if they took them out. But they couldn't find the parts because the mechanic had quit. I just laughed. My son did a full mechanic's training and then quit!
Renault Clio RS220
Ok wait help me out here you paid what ???????? $4500 ..... that is just over R90000-00 or am i missing something ?
I would not pay that kind of money ever for a TCM unit ... if that's the case then i will just start breaking the car and selling it as parts or just sell the complete car to these companies that buy non runners. Renault will never see me again .
Yup, a new TCM and clutch together would cost more than the car is worth in good condition. The TCM was right around $4,000. Years ago when these complex transmissions came out, I said to my wife "Very soon repairing those will cost more than the car is worth". And here I am. But the car is 12 years old. I hope for another 12! Looked at that way, $1,000 per year is tolerable. Problem is that I wanted a nice hot hatch and the Clio RS is certainly that. I didn't want to fork out for a Golf GTi and my wife won't drive a manual. I sold a manual Toyota Caldina and a Getz to buy it. I kind of regret the Caldina. Porsche-style power. But there you go, we had seven vehicles and that's too many!
