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Need Advise on V6 3.0
- Thread starter bartlaman
- Start date
hi mate i think now is a good time to buy a v,as they are going for such good prices now even the mark 2's so your bound to get a bargain,what are you looking at 1 or 2???
An orange one
why shouldnt he go from a C2 to a clio V6?
the 182 isnt some kind of magical middle step, they are totally different cars. of much the same performance, the v6 just needs a slower learning curve, it will take years to master a vee, regardless of weather or not you go from a austin allegro, or a clio 182
just go for it mate!
the 182 isnt some kind of magical middle step, they are totally different cars. of much the same performance, the v6 just needs a slower learning curve, it will take years to master a vee, regardless of weather or not you go from a austin allegro, or a clio 182
just go for it mate!
Colin
I've owned 182 Cup, 172, and C2 VTS in the last 12 months, and the VTS is a totally different beast to any RS Clio. I wouldn't recommend jumping from a 98bhp C2 to a 230/255bhp car. The difference is like night and day, and could easily catch up the unprepared. Any 172/182 would provide idea 'training' for a budding V6 driver to get used to the performance characteristic of a car like a v6
I've owned 182 Cup, 172, and C2 VTS in the last 12 months, and the VTS is a totally different beast to any RS Clio. I wouldn't recommend jumping from a 98bhp C2 to a 230/255bhp car. The difference is like night and day, and could easily catch up the unprepared. Any 172/182 would provide idea 'training' for a budding V6 driver to get used to the performance characteristic of a car like a v6
MK2 Clio V6 255
I went from a 106 quiksilver 75bhp to a Vee 255. Its only my second car!!!!
It is possible, i wanted a vee and got at as I turned 22, insurance wasnt that bad and TBH I dont care about the mpg.
Ive had my vee nearly 2 years now and love it to bits.
A 172/182 will not make any kind of difference they are totally different, having driven a 172 cup I can say its a totally different feeling and would be of no major advantage apart from the speed. Handling, acceleration and general feeling of the car is completely different.
If you want a Vee get yourself out and get one if you really want one that much you shouldnt even be asking advice......
Cpied from this thread http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=107873
Normal servicing is done ever 12k or 2 yrs there is a 1 month/1k tolerance so you can have it done up to 25month or 13k before any warranty implications. Beyond this time/warranty period you maybe asked by Renault for a % payment from yourself for warranty work depending upon how much later you had the service done. However they can only really ask if having the service done at the right time would have spotted the issue. The servicing period used to be 12k/1 yr some dealers haven’t changed there stickers or aware of the new rule which applied to the Renault Sort cars now
What needs to be done normally.
The service schedule is quite complex so instead of being called 12k etc I’ll change them to
12k A
24k A
36k A and B
48k A
60k A
72k A, B and C
84k A
96k A
108k A and B
120 A
Hopefully you get the idea. At 72k you need both A, B and C doing. When you do the work / book it in you ask for the service by mileage though.
If you don’t do 12k ever 2 yrs then the car needs to be serviced ever 2yrs to the same specification as if you had done that mileage.
An “A” service consists of
Change oil (for a 5/40 oil this is important to check some dealers use 10/40 as per normal Clio’s)
Change oil filter
Change air filter
Change passenger compartment filter (if appropriate)
Check bodywork for rust etc (this is part of the Renault anticorrosion check)
Check brakes for wear, failing seals, fluid level (the reservoir on the 172/182 is at the back of the engine on the driver’s side on the bulkhead. You need to remove the engine cover if fitted to see if often as it is in an annoying place)
Check power steering fluid level/pipes
Check exhaust
Check condition of the rubber gaiters on the steering rack
Check the coolant level (big tank attached to the back of the engine bay on the passenger’s side of the car. Top up etc as appropriate so the level is between the minimum and maximum. Make sure you do this when the engines coolant is cold as the system is highly pressurised (1.2 bar and hot) so it can hurt you if you try removing the cap when it’s hot. Also fluid level changed when it’s hot.
Front and rear windscreen wiper check. Condition etc.
Tyres check for uneven wear and pressures (spare should be also check).
Check front and rear shock absorbers are correctly fixed no leaks etc.
Check bulbs work (brakes/indicators etc)
Check battery charge state.
Check all windows/mirrors for cracks etc.
Computer check of any errors logged in the ECU etc.
Some dealers will check other things i.e. tyre wear depth and top up washer fluid these should be a normal check anyway though as an owner.
Expect to pay between £120 and £150 depends where you are in the country. Shouldn’t take more than half a day but dealers ask for it all day so they can have work all day for the mechanics.
A “B” service consists of
The auxiliary belt (known as the AUX belt) being changed this is about £100 extra on top of the normal A service.
A “C” service consists of
Cam belt changed this is usually at a point where people go look at other garages as it’s a 8hr job and Renault can charge £600 or so. Unless you know the garage have changed belts on 172/182’s before don’t use them however good they are many cars have been ruined by people doing this themselves or getting a garage who don’t know the intricacies of doing the job.
Also the spark plugs are changed, the normal Renault ones are fine for 72k so no need to change them before this time. They are a good quality plug (should be at £20 a time) and there no need for any aftermarket ones.
Note for the V6 owners (Mk1 and 2)
Air filter should be changed every 36k not 12k.
Spark plugs are changed at the 48k service.
Fuel filter changed every 72k
Apart from that it’s the same as the 172/182 above.
On top of this servicing are other things that need to be done regardless of mileage
Cam belt and aux belt shouldn’t be any older than 5yrs.
Brake fluid should be changed ever 4 yrs
Central locking buttons battery changed every 2 yrs
Coolant changed every 4 yrs or 72k whichever is earlier.
Fuel filter changed ever 150k
Airbags and pretensioner system changed ever 10 years.
That’s the official lines. Personally I’d change the oil between every service (doesn’t cost much for the oil and you can do it yourself). Also change the brake fluid every 2 years or least bleed the brakes.
Renault has to ask if you want them to do any other work to your car i.e. change brake pads. Personally I wouldn’t get them to do any as you can change pads in 40 minutes and buy them from Renault for £40ish. Renault will want £40 to fit them so might as well save some money.
Servicing is quite expensive cambelt is 6.1 hours to do and many people would chnage the coolent pump at the same time as otherwsie the belt has to come out to fix it at a later date. If you do chnage the pump its 7.1hours and to give you an idea the engine comes out.
Engine and the whole car is basically a V6 Laguna with a manaul 6 speed box driven into the back of a Clio sheel which they then tried to make handle using a hugh strong subframe etc so the engine is quite bulletproff as there common engines.
Check for crash damage even more so a phase1 as they are more supseptabel to acceidents as on the limit the handling is twitchy its not at throwable as a 172/182.
72k and 5years supposidly for the belt and as I said its a long job (although only a bit longer than a 172/182 which are 5.1 hours excluding the coolent pump. But when the bill for a cambelt service come in people often try to sell hence why there some cheap ones out there.
Gearbox on the cars arn't that good the phase 1's are worst differentials arn't award winning. Clutch can wear with abuse since they have such big tyres they don't slip the rear tyres so the clutch gives up with realy with hard launches.
Most have few miles and are second fun cars.
Normal servicing is done ever 12k or 2 yrs there is a 1 month/1k tolerance so you can have it done up to 25month or 13k before any warranty implications. Beyond this time/warranty period you maybe asked by Renault for a % payment from yourself for warranty work depending upon how much later you had the service done. However they can only really ask if having the service done at the right time would have spotted the issue. The servicing period used to be 12k/1 yr some dealers haven’t changed there stickers or aware of the new rule which applied to the Renault Sort cars now
What needs to be done normally.
The service schedule is quite complex so instead of being called 12k etc I’ll change them to
12k A
24k A
36k A and B
48k A
60k A
72k A, B and C
84k A
96k A
108k A and B
120 A
Hopefully you get the idea. At 72k you need both A, B and C doing. When you do the work / book it in you ask for the service by mileage though.
If you don’t do 12k ever 2 yrs then the car needs to be serviced ever 2yrs to the same specification as if you had done that mileage.
An “A” service consists of
Change oil (for a 5/40 oil this is important to check some dealers use 10/40 as per normal Clio’s)
Change oil filter
Change air filter
Change passenger compartment filter (if appropriate)
Check bodywork for rust etc (this is part of the Renault anticorrosion check)
Check brakes for wear, failing seals, fluid level (the reservoir on the 172/182 is at the back of the engine on the driver’s side on the bulkhead. You need to remove the engine cover if fitted to see if often as it is in an annoying place)
Check power steering fluid level/pipes
Check exhaust
Check condition of the rubber gaiters on the steering rack
Check the coolant level (big tank attached to the back of the engine bay on the passenger’s side of the car. Top up etc as appropriate so the level is between the minimum and maximum. Make sure you do this when the engines coolant is cold as the system is highly pressurised (1.2 bar and hot) so it can hurt you if you try removing the cap when it’s hot. Also fluid level changed when it’s hot.
Front and rear windscreen wiper check. Condition etc.
Tyres check for uneven wear and pressures (spare should be also check).
Check front and rear shock absorbers are correctly fixed no leaks etc.
Check bulbs work (brakes/indicators etc)
Check battery charge state.
Check all windows/mirrors for cracks etc.
Computer check of any errors logged in the ECU etc.
Some dealers will check other things i.e. tyre wear depth and top up washer fluid these should be a normal check anyway though as an owner.
Expect to pay between £120 and £150 depends where you are in the country. Shouldn’t take more than half a day but dealers ask for it all day so they can have work all day for the mechanics.
A “B” service consists of
The auxiliary belt (known as the AUX belt) being changed this is about £100 extra on top of the normal A service.
A “C” service consists of
Cam belt changed this is usually at a point where people go look at other garages as it’s a 8hr job and Renault can charge £600 or so. Unless you know the garage have changed belts on 172/182’s before don’t use them however good they are many cars have been ruined by people doing this themselves or getting a garage who don’t know the intricacies of doing the job.
Also the spark plugs are changed, the normal Renault ones are fine for 72k so no need to change them before this time. They are a good quality plug (should be at £20 a time) and there no need for any aftermarket ones.
Note for the V6 owners (Mk1 and 2)
Air filter should be changed every 36k not 12k.
Spark plugs are changed at the 48k service.
Fuel filter changed every 72k
Apart from that it’s the same as the 172/182 above.
On top of this servicing are other things that need to be done regardless of mileage
Cam belt and aux belt shouldn’t be any older than 5yrs.
Brake fluid should be changed ever 4 yrs
Central locking buttons battery changed every 2 yrs
Coolant changed every 4 yrs or 72k whichever is earlier.
Fuel filter changed ever 150k
Airbags and pretensioner system changed ever 10 years.
That’s the official lines. Personally I’d change the oil between every service (doesn’t cost much for the oil and you can do it yourself). Also change the brake fluid every 2 years or least bleed the brakes.
Renault has to ask if you want them to do any other work to your car i.e. change brake pads. Personally I wouldn’t get them to do any as you can change pads in 40 minutes and buy them from Renault for £40ish. Renault will want £40 to fit them so might as well save some money.
Servicing is quite expensive cambelt is 6.1 hours to do and many people would chnage the coolent pump at the same time as otherwsie the belt has to come out to fix it at a later date. If you do chnage the pump its 7.1hours and to give you an idea the engine comes out.
Engine and the whole car is basically a V6 Laguna with a manaul 6 speed box driven into the back of a Clio sheel which they then tried to make handle using a hugh strong subframe etc so the engine is quite bulletproff as there common engines.
Check for crash damage even more so a phase1 as they are more supseptabel to acceidents as on the limit the handling is twitchy its not at throwable as a 172/182.
72k and 5years supposidly for the belt and as I said its a long job (although only a bit longer than a 172/182 which are 5.1 hours excluding the coolent pump. But when the bill for a cambelt service come in people often try to sell hence why there some cheap ones out there.
Gearbox on the cars arn't that good the phase 1's are worst differentials arn't award winning. Clutch can wear with abuse since they have such big tyres they don't slip the rear tyres so the clutch gives up with realy with hard launches.
Most have few miles and are second fun cars.
Shhh
tbh, the V6 is not that much faster than the 182.
I had one along the a52 from boston, i caught up and sat on his bum. Must of been the slower version.
I had one along the a52 from boston, i caught up and sat on his bum. Must of been the slower version.
Better than yours. C*nt.
The Vee is fairly lardy anyway - a good 182/172 won't be far behind until it gets really hard on a track. I'd personally look for an R32 as a road car, you soon get bored of losing all practicality.
Here's an interesting proposition as well - try getting a smaller, slower RWD car as a mid-step? While you can go out and get the big one straight off and be ok, more often than not it ends in tears because RWD cars behave very differently for starters, and also if it's faster you're also having to correct it faster - no mean feat if you've jumped out of a tatty eurobox!
I have a Smart Roadster until Friday, and having driven a Vee regularly and cained the hell out of one on a trackday, ok it's a lot slower, but it's a good idea of what can go wrong when it gets pushed too hard. Much more representative than it's similar chassis'ed FWD counterparts.
Here's an interesting proposition as well - try getting a smaller, slower RWD car as a mid-step? While you can go out and get the big one straight off and be ok, more often than not it ends in tears because RWD cars behave very differently for starters, and also if it's faster you're also having to correct it faster - no mean feat if you've jumped out of a tatty eurobox!
I have a Smart Roadster until Friday, and having driven a Vee regularly and cained the hell out of one on a trackday, ok it's a lot slower, but it's a good idea of what can go wrong when it gets pushed too hard. Much more representative than it's similar chassis'ed FWD counterparts.
Aside from the very excellent mechanical advice already given, if the Clio is to be your only car, don't plan on carting too much gear around with you. It is possible to get lots in the car, but needs careful planning especially as your items can be warm, or wet (if it's raining) at journey's end.
Clio v6 & Atom 300
If you can afford the insurance buy it and live the dream.:approve:
Peter
Peter
