New Brakes pads for 1.2 clio

[craig20102010]

Had my car for about 2 years now and i know its due Some new pads up front just not sure where i can get them from and for the cheapest prices.

its a:

1.2 8v Authentique
HN51 2001 mk2 phase 3

I was told that it would be £45 for new pads and fitting and he sed they make about 4 different types for the renault clio?

So just woundering on a place to buy them from and what pads to get.

Rather then start a new thread im lookin at getting 4 new tyres profile 195/45/16 i was lookin at getting the Yoka A539's just not sure if there going to be as good as my Uniroyle RainSport 1's as these are made for Wet weather and are pretty good in the dry as well as wet. Will i be let down if i buy the A539's? Any surjestions on other tyres with about £60 per tyre?

 

[Middo]

GSF are really good place for you parts. i;ve got pagid max pads with brembo max discs and i think its a good combination. not sure if you use the same brakes on an 8v, but would imagine they'd do some to fit. mine were around £95 for pads and discs. They also do OEM renault stuff quite cheap if you want some direct replacements.
tyres - goodyear eagle F1's??

 

[craig20102010]

Eagles F1's were an option actually.

I dont think ill need any uprated groved rotors or anything like that for me little 1.2 lol maybe if i decide to drop an engine in.

OEM pads sound ok as long as they feel the same as the renault ones did when i first got the car since they felt really sharpe and solid

 

[Middo]

yeah mine OEM were really good, but the pagid/brembos stop alot quicker when you really wack them, otherwise they're about the same. id recommend them for the money

 

[craig20102010]

yeah mine OEM were really good, but the pagid/brembos stop alot quicker when you really wack them, otherwise they're about the same. id recommend them for the money

Im guessing there groved rotors and brand new calipers? the bremo

How much are the OEM any idea, easy to fit?

 

[Middo]

no idea - think they've got an online catalogue, and if you become a member you get 10% off. for me that was more than the membership charge.

mine are direct replacement discs and pads.

 

[edde]

I'd get the Haldfords one there £16 or £17 I use the more expensive £17 ones there dead easy to fit (40 minutes so so) and never had any trouble. No need for much more ona a 1.2 in my mind.

 

[craig20102010]

I'd get the Haldfords one there £16 or £17 I use the more expensive £17 ones there dead easy to fit (40 minutes so so) and never had any trouble. No need for much more ona a 1.2 in my mind.

Sounds Decent that thanks alot Eddie. Any idea on what he was talking about when he sed there are 4 different types of brake pads ? or are they all the same just different for different size engines?

 

[edde]

Sounds Decent that thanks alot Eddie. Any idea on what he was talking about when he sed there are 4 different types of brake pads ? or are they all the same just different for different size engines?

No idea, all Mk2 phase 2 cars (ie with triangular lights) (172/182's excepted) run the same pad types. Its the same pads and disks as the Willliams/1.8 16V the old Mk2 phase 1 1.6 16V its the same pad as the Renault 5 GTT runs (it runs a differen disk though).
Go to Halfords and have a look it won't list the Renault Clio Mk2 often but get the 5GTT or Williams or 1.8 16V pads and theyre the right ones. The ones I use (I found the box) are Ferodo premier FDB845. Looks like they fit the Megan upto 95 in 1.4/1.6 and 2.0 spec and the 205 GTi and CTi
Its funny how even the modern cars run the same brakes as the old Renault sport cars which had 150hp. So you won't have any issues on hard driving.
Get some thread locking compound though as they don't supply new bolts any more and you have to resuse the old ones so I'd recomend (although not essential) to stick some locking compound on them.
Ferodo are the manurfacturer for the Renault one so there probably the same part just boxed differently.

 

[craig20102010]

Dont mean to drag the post on you've been most helpful but could you give me a quick over view of how to fit them.

things i want to know are:

what i need to remove after the wheel when i slide the pads out do i need to push the calpiers back in so that they can self adjust again or wot?

 

[u33db]

If its the same as williams/1.8 16v calipers theres 2 ways;

Firstly use a screwdriver to lever the brake piston back as far as possible into the caliper so theres plenty of room to get the thinkker pads then;

1. They'll be two bolts topmost on the caliper, loosen 1 with a spanner and remove the other completely (you'll need to spanners - one to hold and one to undo for this)...the caliper will then fold over on itself giving access

or

2. Using 1 socket, undo one of the bolts holding the brake caliper to the hub carrier and loosen another...again the caliper will slide over on itself off the disc to give access for fitting the new pads.

Out of preference, i prefer the second as it only needs one socket and a screwdriver...it also saves messing with the brake too much itself...not to mention being far quicker.

 

[edde]

As u33db said the calipers are the same so its the same process.

The caliper is held on with two bolts on the back of it you need to remove these two bolts or just remove and and spin the caliper round (I always remove both). The bolt can spin so you need a spanner on the inside of the calpier so the nut comes out.
You can push the caliper back very slowly (else you will flip the master cylinder seals) with your hands. If your not strong or if like me you can use a G clamp to push the piston right back in. Just make sure you go very slowly.
My prefered method is to undo the bleed nipple (8mm nut) on the caliper slightly so when you push the piston back the fluid goes out through the bleed nipple hence reducing the chance of flipping the master clyinder seals. I'd always bleed the system though as its amazing the amount of air you can have in it.

When the caliper off you just need to remove the pads a screwdriver etc can be needed as they can get stuck.
Then just do it all in reverse put the caliper back on tighten the nuts on the calipr back tight and stick the wheel on.
Regards self adjusting though when you've finsihed with the car on its wheels press the pedal a few times with the engine off this should push the calipers to the right distance contact with the disk. Just check before you drive off though to bed the brakes in that they do work.
To bed the brakes in though you need to get the car to 60 or so mph and slam on hard brakign to about 5mph but don't stop then accelerate to 60 again and brake do this about 10 times then drive round not using the brakes to let them cool off.
the worst thing you cna do to brakes is stop fully with you foot on the pedal as this causes the hot pads to stick to the disks when they drive off some of the pad sticks to the disk making it unever. People think they have warped the disks when its just down to there use of brakes.

 

[craig20102010]

As u33db said the calipers are the same so its the same process.

The caliper is held on with two bolts on the back of it you need to remove these two bolts or just remove and and spin the caliper round (I always remove both). The bolt can spin so you need a spanner on the inside of the calpier so the nut comes out.
You can push the caliper back very slowly (else you will flip the master cylinder seals) with your hands. If your not strong or if like me you can use a G clamp to push the piston right back in. Just make sure you go very slowly.
My prefered method is to undo the bleed nipple (8mm nut) on the caliper slightly so when you push the piston back the fluid goes out through the bleed nipple hence reducing the chance of flipping the master clyinder seals. I'd always bleed the system though as its amazing the amount of air you can have in it.

O rite dont really wana bleed them thats not wot the garages do is it when they fit new brake pads is it? (bleeed them all the time)

i aint got no bleeding kit or anything like that. But u recon i can get away with just putting the pistons back slowly and that will be fine how hard is it to brake the master seal ave u done it b4?

 

[edde]

O rite dont really wana bleed them thats not wot the garages do is it when they fit new brake pads is it? (bleeed them all the time)

i aint got no bleeding kit or anything like that. But u recon i can get away with just putting the pistons back slowly and that will be fine how hard is it to brake the master seal ave u done it b4?

Nope garages won't but you will notice the difference.
Yep you can get away but if you don't feel like doing the bleeding and buying the kit (£20 from Halfords for the good one) then go to a local garage and ask them to do it its much easier with the £280 setups they have and should only be about £20 which is worth just as much as the pads in difference.
Pushing the pistons in slowly you should be fine undo the nipple and push it out is better.
On new Clios the master cylinder hasn't had much wear and the calipers arn't huge. I've pushed mine back in reasonable quick with a G calmp with no trouble but better be safe than sorrt. I broke the master cylinder in my Williams but then again it has 100k of driving on it (so a bit of wear which can be a problem as they get lips on them with milage) plus I have big 4 pot brakes so they push much more fluid back round the system when I pushed them back quickly.

 

[craig20102010]

Think ill just Ave a look at it see how hard they are to push back then if i can do it without aving to un do the Bleed nipple ill do that then your saying its £20 get the garage to give the brake system a full rebleed. seems a bit Cheap but sounds ok.

Hopefully i can push it back no bother without braking the seals

If you open the bleed nipple and push it back ull loose oil wont you? or will there still be enough in the resoviour for the system to still work?

Cheers for ur help btw i know im a bit annoying i just like to know all possibilities b4 i do anything especially when its my brakes.

 

[edde]

Think ill just Ave a look at it see how hard they are to push back then if i can do it without aving to un do the Bleed nipple ill do that then your saying its £20 get the garage to give the brake system a full rebleed. seems a bit Cheap but sounds ok.

Hopefully i can push it back no bother without braking the seals

If you open the bleed nipple and push it back ull loose oil wont you? or will there still be enough in the resoviour for the system to still work?

Cheers for ur help btw i know im a bit annoying i just like to know all possibilities b4 i do anything especially when its my brakes.

You'll probably need a G clamp to push the piston back just remember very slowly if it takes you two minutes its better than a £150 bill for a new one including fitting.
Its easy to bleed the system with the right tools otherwise it take a bit longer.
When you open the bleed nipple and let the fluid out yes you will loose some but you should check and top up the fluid as requied anyway.
By the way its brake fluid not oil. Don't go putting oil anywhere near your brakes.