Oil Pressure light linked to Brake fluid/Pad wear?

[J@Y]

Hi, I keep getting my oil pressure warning light flicking on and off when driving normally. I thought it was pressure switch failure as I have plenty of oil in there and it's the right viscosity.

However, I have read on one other thread that it could linked to low brake fluid/pads worn out. Is this true? If the light is shared between brake fluid and oil pressure, this would make sense as my pads are completly worn out on the back and I can hear them grinding. And the light has only been coming on since they have been grinding.

Can anyone clarify this please?

Thanks! Jay

 

[Jonny1*2]

If there is a low brake fluid level Jay, the handbrake light illuminates, not the oil. It could be your oil pressure switch.

 

[MicKPM]

Agreed, its most likely the oil pressure warning light is coming on because of...

• A fault with the oil pressure switch.
• A fault with the oil pump - eg. a blockage in the pickup or wear in the pump.

You really should get it to a garage to have the oil pressure measured to confirm or deny the fault as a sensor failure or the pump itself.

Mick

 

[Jonny1*2]

Agreed, its most likely the oil pressure warning light is coming on because of...

• A fault with the oil pressure switch.
• A fault with the oil pump - eg. a blockage in the pickup or wear in the pump.

You really should get it to a garage to have the oil pressure measured to confirm or deny the fault as a sensor failure or the pump itself.

Mick

Hopefully the pump isn't goosed :S Get it checked ASAP just in case, and drive carefully before hand. The last thing you want is something more serious to go. Switch is quite a common fault though.

 

[MicKPM]

@ Jonny - Yeah me to cos its not a nice job to inspect/change the pump of the F4R without pulling the lump and putting it on a stand... it is do-able but its not nice.

I've seen a few newer Renaults though where the sump has been siliconed back on after some service actions. Now there's nothing really wrong with using silicone until muppets get involved and use way too much allowing it to float around the bottom end and eventually block up the mesh that protects the oil pump pickup from sucking up the seriously lumpy stuff... which in turn causes the low oil pressure as it starves the pump of oil.

@Jay - Get it to a decent garage asap and request they remove the oil pressure switch, fit a mechanical oil pressure tester and report back with the readings to rule out the pump function before buying a new switch.

 

[Jonny1*2]

@ Jonny - Yeah me to cos its not a nice job to inspect/change the pump of the F4R without pulling the lump and putting it on a stand... it is do-able but its not nice.

I've seen a few newer Renaults though where the sump has been siliconed back on after some service actions. Now there's nothing really wrong with using silicone until muppets get involved and use way too much allowing it to float around the bottom end and eventually block up the mesh that protects the oil pump pickup from sucking up the seriously lumpy stuff... which in turn causes the low oil pressure as it starves the pump of oil.

@Jay - Get it to a decent garage asap and request they remove the oil pressure switch, fit a mechanical oil pressure tester and report back with the readings to rule out the pump function before buying a new switch.

Can you not remove the sump in situ to get to the pump?

Jay it should be around 80 ish for the oil reading (pressure units I can't remember :S )

 

[MicKPM]

Nope, the subframe just gets in the way enough to forbid you clearing the pickup point so you have to either lift the complete lump or drop the subframe... rate pain in the rear!

Oil pressure should be 3Bar @ 3k rpm when warm (which according to the book and for the purpose of testing is 80 degrees celcius)... cold start pressure can be 4.5-6Bar depending on oil grade, temp and pump condition.

 

[f0xy]

It is possible to get the sump out with the engine and sub frame still in position... done it on a 182 before and removed the oil pump...

Id be saying oil pressure switch, quite common that this problem gets posted on here. Wouldnt harm to get the pressure tested for piece of mind though..

 

[Fred@BTM]

Nope, the subframe just gets in the way enough to forbid you clearing the pickup point so you have to either lift the complete lump or drop the subframe... rate pain in the rear!

Oil pressure should be 3Bar @ 3k rpm when warm (which according to the book and for the purpose of testing is 80 degrees celcius)... cold start pressure can be 4.5-6Bar depending on oil grade, temp and pump condition.

i do them in situ, its not that bad actually


are we sure the OP isn't confusing his lights? are you actually seeil the oil light or just the (!) and STOP lights?

 

[J@Y]

i do them in situ, its not that bad actually


are we sure the OP isn't confusing his lights? are you actually seeil the oil light or just the (!) and STOP lights?

Yes it's definitely oil pressure coming on with STOP. I think it was you who said in a previous post that Oil pressure light can come on with low brake fluid? Was posting here just to clarify...

It is possible to get the sump out with the engine and sub frame still in position... done it on a 182 before and removed the oil pump...

Id be saying oil pressure switch, quite common that this problem gets posted on here. Wouldnt harm to get the pressure tested for piece of mind though..

Cheers foxy, was gonna come to you next. Do you know anywhere that will test the oil pressure for me with a mechanical gauge? For the sake of £15 I may just buy the switch in the hope that this is the problem.

Nope, the subframe just gets in the way enough to forbid you clearing the pickup point so you have to either lift the complete lump or drop the subframe... rate pain in the rear!

Oil pressure should be 3Bar @ 3k rpm when warm (which according to the book and for the purpose of testing is 80 degrees celcius)... cold start pressure can be 4.5-6Bar depending on oil grade, temp and pump condition.

If I can find somewhere with a gauge I will get it tested, otherwise I will just order a new swtich and say my prayers!

The fact it's flicking on and off all the time suggests it would be the switch. The oil was changed not long ago and still seems clean. And it's Millers fully synth 5w40...

 

[J@Y]

i do them in situ, its not that bad actually


are we sure the OP isn't confusing his lights? are you actually seeil the oil light or just the (!) and STOP lights?

Yeh, this is the thread I was referring too... http://www.cliosport.net/forum/show...re-Warning-Light&highlight=oil+pressure+light

 

[Fred@BTM]

i was wrong, low brake pads = (!) and STOP in red

low oil pressure = a red oil can and STOP

 

[J@Y]

Bollox, kinda hoped you were right as would have explained my problem cheaply! Ah well, going to order the pressure switch this afternoon

 

[f0xy]

Was going to say may aswell buy the oil switch for the price it is, as it will probably be that. I have a mechanical gauge and line somewhere but its not M14 like the oil pressure switch so would need an adaptor, which would probably cost more than the new sensor

 

[MicKPM]

I don't know what the current retail is on an OP switch but I always prefer to prove something is fudged before splurging out on it but i'm a tight ass diagnostician so meh! If its only £20 then fair enough, its worth a punt but a flickering warning light can also be attributed to a physical low oil pressure reading... just watch that light afetr fitting a new one and fingers crossed for you. (We all also acknowledge the fact that these sensors are known to be problematic)

Foxy - I bought a delux test set from Snap-On last August with various fitting attachements and now every bloody garage in the area wants to borrow it... Best £140 spent with my local sales rep though.

 

[la21t]

Did u discover the problem mate?