Okay really PROPERLY stumped now... wtf!

[CrippsCorner]

Right, sorry about another thread on this but it's just getting more puzzling every week! Got to the point where I'm actually laughing about it now. Situation is my passenger side window isn't working... ordered new regulator, changed it, no difference. Thought I'd get the wiring loom that connects to it as the next part to change. Ordered one and found out there are different connections. So, found the part number to make sure I got the right one next time, found one, received it today. SAME PART NUMBER but still, different connections!? :dead:

The one on the left is the one I'm after, but all I can seem to get is the one on the right...

Where do I go from here? :dapprove: this has been going on for about 3 months now and it's really starting to piss me off.

 

[Snake182]

What makes you think it the loom at fault? If you changed the motor already. I assume you have checked it has a earth and live feed to your motor which is why you changed the motor first.

 

[barnesautos]

Doesn't the UCH / BIC control the windows ?
I'd start by checking the window controls to that and also the wires from motor to BIC .

 

[CrippsCorner]

I've followed a thread on here about the UCH and the tests I performed are pointing to it not being that... although it still could be of course.

I've tested voltage on the connector to the regulator and it has 12v but it seems like it might be doing the opposite to what it should, i.e. dropping voltage when activated.

Basically I'm stuck and thought I'd gradually work my way back from the regulator changing one item at a time!

 

[barnesautos]

The voltage at the regulator is 12v one side and earth the other when switched and swap over the pins and the 12v and earth swap over when switched the other way.

Can you hear the UCBIC switching inside when the switches are operated .
The switches burnout inside either not passing 12v or an earth signal to the UCBIC .

If you don't have 12v and an earth at the same time and in the switched over position then it's likely to be either the switch or wiring

 

[CrippsCorner]

Earth is 0v isn't it? If so, yes that's what I get.

I recorded what I can hear, one way you get nothing, but the way you can hear it clicking...



After the wiring loom I posted about, is there anything else between that and the UCH?

 

[RenMatt]

So you have checked the switches then ? & if there is a fault with the drivers twin switch this can affect the operation of the passengers side switch .

 

[CrippsCorner]

Checked as in tried the driver's side but it doesn't work either... although the driver's side window works fine. Oh man, more investigations i.e. taking that door card off too!? What's there to check though, voltage again?

 

[barnesautos]

Earth is 0v isn't it? If so, yes that's what I get.

I recorded what I can hear, one way you get nothing, but the way you can hear it clicking...

Ok so the fact that you can hear clicking of the motor - does that mean upwards "closed" position. ?
This tells me half of the circuit works so the wires from UCBIC to regulator are ok.
I'd be checking the window switches with a multi-meter both switches that work the
n/s/f motor. As the circuit goes from the left door switch over to the right door switch and then on to the UCBIC , I'd be checking that wiring also .

 

[CrippsCorner]

Right! A day of testing, and I've even drawn a picture to show my results. Let me just add that the 12v on the regulator is exactly the same whether you're using the passenger side or driver's side switch. Although, I did notice the up switch on the driver's side seems slightly temperamental in how it 'clicks' if that makes sense, but it does always record the same value. Hope this makes sense to someone! By the way, just out of interest, what is the UCBIC? Not seen that mentioned before.

 

[CrippsCorner]

Earth is 0v isn't it? If so, yes that's what I get.

I recorded what I can hear, one way you get nothing, but the way you can hear it clicking...

Ok so the fact that you can hear clicking of the motor - does that mean upwards "closed" position. ?
This tells me half of the circuit works so the wires from UCBIC to regulator are ok.
I'd be checking the window switches with a multi-meter both switches that work the
n/s/f motor. As the circuit goes from the left door switch over to the right door switch and then on to the UCBIC , I'd be checking that wiring also .

barnesautos you sir, are a f**king life saver! That was it mate. Took the driver's switches apart and noticed one sounded weaker than the rest. Fully opened it up and this is what I saw...

Obviously the black one is the knackered one. Ordered a new switch off eBay, fitted it today... working perfectly now happy days!

 

[barnesautos]

Glad you got it sorted
Happy days.

Yes with reference to the Term UCBIC , that's the internal fuse and relay unit inside the vehicle , the UCBIM is the one in the engine bay , I guess not used often -but I am an old git lol.