Omex help please?

gardner51 · Mar 7, 2011

Hi all, I have got myself an itb kit, it came with a full 182 loom with the omex loom attached, from what I can see the omex loom is connected to the Renault 182 loom via 2 wires, would it be much simpler for me to just cut these to wires, find the wires in my 182 loom and connect them? Or do you think I should just swop looms over?

Ellz

Just had another look at it attachs via the Renault t.d.c sensor wires,

Ellz

D4N13L · Mar 7, 2011

If you are stuck give dan at 519 automotive a call he is the daddy.

Gray · Mar 7, 2011

The Omex loom is spliced into the Renault TDC sensor loom

gardner51 · Mar 7, 2011

Sweet, Yh I'll just cut from the loom it's attached to and then re connect it via the tdc sensor loom, saves me swapping the whole loom,

Ellz

Icarus · Mar 7, 2011

Make sure you perform a proper crimp. Solder and insulated bullet connectors are not acceptable ways of splicing a crank sensor signal. A Raychem inline crimp with an adhesive lined shrunk outer is a much more robust option. The Crank sensor is the most important sensor on the engine so don't bodge it!!

gardner51 · Mar 7, 2011

I won't be "bodging" it, i have the correct bits I need to crimp ect, I do alot of t.d.c sensors and looms as clio's fail all the time on them, ( work for Renault as a tech ) cheers for the help,

Their is one more bit I don't get where it goes, off of the omex loom their is a little relay box with 2 fuse's and a relay, of off this theirs one wire, on the end of the wire has a spade conector into a fuse then another spade connector as if to bridge something, and idea were these go? Any pictures of these in place would help, it says "switched + ve" on the wire

Ellz

sideways danny · Mar 7, 2011

Matt@TDF AKA Icarus said:
Make sure you perform a proper crimp. Solder and insulated bullet connectors are not acceptable ways of splicing a crank sensor signal. A Raychem inline crimp with an adhesive lined shrunk outer is a much more robust option. The Crank sensor is the most important sensor on the engine so don't bodge it!!

but seeing as the signal clarity issue is zero being that it's purely to run the rev counter, and keep the fuel pump running, it matters not a ****

sideways danny · Mar 7, 2011

gardner51 said:
I won't be "bodging" it, i have the correct bits I need to crimp ect, I do alot of t.d.c sensors and looms as clio's fail all the time on them, ( work for Renault as a tech ) cheers for the help,

Their is one more bit I don't get where it goes, off of the omex loom their is a little relay box with 2 fuse's and a relay, of off this theirs one wire, on the end of the wire has a spade conector into a fuse then another spade connector as if to bridge something, and idea were these go? Any pictures of these in place would help, it says "switched + ve" on the wire

Ellz

that's for a switched live. Normally build a bridge from an existing fuse in the box by the battery

Icarus · Mar 7, 2011

sideways danny said:
but seeing as the signal clarity issue is zero being that it's purely to run the rev counter, and keep the fuel pump running, it matters not a ****

It's an inductive sensor Danny and you are splitting the signal between two controllers. Whilst the stock ECU will only run the rev counter/fuel pump from this signal the Omex will still need to acquire and maintain a good sync, as the signal is differential it's extremely important that the "crimp" is extremely good and doesn't negatively affect signal quality... especially as essentialy you are only giving the Omex/GEMS half the "signal strength" a dedicated sensor would supply as you're balasting it with another controller. Also if the stock ECU looses sync for long enough it will shut the fuel pump down as it "thinks" the engine has stopped.

90% of the issues I see with aftermarket ECU's running alongside stock ECU's are crank signal related, mostly down to poor wiring!

sideways danny · Mar 7, 2011

I know exactly how it works, this is why they had a sensor that gives a stronger signal in the kit. Not saying do it badly on purpose. That would be obtuse. Just dont be so dramatic over it. Never once had an issue once the different sensors were used.

chrispy.clio · Mar 7, 2011

^ exactly why mine was having problems.

sideways danny · Mar 7, 2011

chrispy.clio said:
^ exactly why mine was having problems.

I did see your wiring after you fitted it, and tbh, i dont think i've ever seen anything so rough

Icarus · Mar 7, 2011

sideways danny said:
I know exactly how it works, this is why they had a sensor that gives a stronger signal in the kit. Not saying do it badly on purpose. That would be obtuse. Just dont be so dramatic over it. Never once had an issue once the different sensors were used.

What sensor it is doesn't matter, introduce noise onto either side of the signal and the ECU (both stock and/or aftermarket) will loose sync. The anomolies per cycle need to remain constant for sync to be maintained. This noise can be as simple as a poor crimp or failing solder joint.

gardner51 · Mar 7, 2011

sideways danny said:
that's for a switched live. Normally build a bridge from an existing fuse in the box by the battery

Any idea what one? Seems like it went into 2 fuses not attached the battery, theirs another wire that connects to
The battery live and one to earth

Ellz

sideways danny · Mar 7, 2011

use a multi meter, see which fuse gives you an ignition live. It's different between 172's and 182's and i can never remember which is which so have to bell it out every time

gardner51 · Mar 7, 2011

Ok, so I replace the fuse which is ign live with the wiring of the omex I was on about?

Ellz

gardner51 · Mar 7, 2011

gardner51 · Mar 7, 2011

danny, am i rite in saying, no 1 is earth? no 2 perment live? no3 is the ign live? so take the fuse out and put the 2 spade connectors were the fuse would go?

Ellz

Cro · Mar 7, 2011

Yeah you'll need a solid ground, and good power feeds. I should have the wire I used for ign live when I get home later or I dont see why you couldnt just pop them in the fuse holder.

Matt@TDF AKA Icarus said:
It's an inductive sensor Danny and you are splitting the signal between two controllers. Whilst the stock ECU will only run the rev counter/fuel pump from this signal the Omex will still need to acquire and maintain a good sync, as the signal is differential it's extremely important that the "crimp" is extremely good and doesn't negatively affect signal quality... especially as essentialy you are only giving the Omex/GEMS half the "signal strength" a dedicated sensor would supply as you're balasting it with another controller. Also if the stock ECU looses sync for long enough it will shut the fuel pump down as it "thinks" the engine has stopped.

90% of the issues I see with aftermarket ECU's running alongside stock ECU's are crank signal related, mostly down to poor wiring!

I'm pretty sure this is why my rev needle only works at certain revs, Andy said it was due to needing a resistor inline of one of the wires? I use the blacktop zetec stronger sensor too (same as supplied by omex)

gardner51 · Mar 7, 2011

So the way I said the picture is I am rite?

If you could post a pic up would help, cheers

Ellz

sideways danny · Mar 7, 2011

Cro-Clio said:
I'm pretty sure this is why my rev needle only works at certain revs, Andy said it was due to needing a resistor inline of one of the wires? I use the blacktop zetec stronger sensor too (same as supplied by omex)

Transistor, not a resistor

sideways danny · Mar 7, 2011

gardner51 said:
danny, am i rite in saying, no 1 is earth? no 2 perment live? no3 is the ign live? so take the fuse out and put the 2 spade connectors were the fuse would go?

Ellz

Exactly that

Cro · Mar 7, 2011

sideways danny said:
Transistor, not a resistor

Lol glad I never tried then, any chance you know what kind danny

and just placed anywhere on one of the wires?

Ellz I spliced omex pin 4a into ecu wire 29 (yellow, spliced not cut) but putting in place of the fuse seems an easier option depending on the install really.

gardner51 · Mar 7, 2011

That's just confused the hell out of me lol! I'll just take te fuse out of the fuel pump and put the spade connectors in their, that's an ign live correct?

Ellz

Laine_16v · Mar 7, 2011

Cro-Clio said:
I'm pretty sure this is why my rev needle only works at certain revs, Andy said it was due to needing a resistor inline of one of the wires? I use the blacktop zetec stronger sensor too (same as supplied by omex)

Ktec wouldnt sell me one saying they have only sold 2 in the past 3 years, even though i can name about 5 clios with them on... :dead:

Cro · Mar 7, 2011

Laine_16v said:
Ktec wouldnt sell me one saying they have only sold 2 in the past 3 years, even though i can name about 5 clios with them on... :dead:

Why wouldnt they? Is that a good thing or bad thing? I mean mine starts up and runs spot on (bar the rev counter, which as danny concurs is a TRANsistor)

Is it my post you're confused with Ellz?

gardner51 · Mar 7, 2011

Yh Dude lol, this part..

Ellz I spliced omex pin 4a into ecu wire 29 (yellow, spliced not cut) but putting in place of the fuse seems an easier option depending on the install really.

Ellz

Cro · Mar 7, 2011

Lol pm me your email address i'll throw you my wiring diagram if you want but I wire it all into the renault ecu wiring. How it currently is on your loom might be easier for you though, I started with a completely blank harness (just individual wires)

gardner51 · Mar 9, 2011

Hi all. Stuck again, on the omex loom theirs a compactor for the "idle motor" were does this go?

Also do I have to plug in the front o2 sensor
Into the loom as it looks like it wasn't as it's all rapped up and not been Stretched out to fit

Ellz

Fred@BTM · Mar 9, 2011

Who did the loom on fmp's time attack car Danny? bullet connetors of the f**king TDC sensor LOL

slindborg · Mar 9, 2011

mild drift, Gardner, which ren dealership do you work at? I need the bonnet catch rework doing lol.

I'd make a guess that the idle controller isnt needed as you sort of manually set that with TB's and (I would hope) the ph2onwards 1*2's dont have an idle valve either due to the ETB doing that job

gardner51 · Mar 9, 2011

Work at darlingtons buddy (Harlow).

This is what I thought but the person I got it from said he used all the connectors on the omex loom lol

Ellz

sideways danny · Mar 9, 2011

that loom will fit other types of install, so it has an idle motor output for cars with the stock inlet. You dont need it.

You should use the lambda sensor yes, although i dont think the plug on the loom will fit the standard sensor. Get a nice new one (always best) from a mk1 16v/williams (3 wire, not 4 that the stock sensor uses)

gardner51 · Mar 9, 2011

cheers dude, ill get a new sensor orderd today then, thats why it wasnt plugged in then, sweet, nearly up and running now, cant wait

ellz

sideways danny · Mar 9, 2011

just check the plug on the loom before you order. should be a 3 pin though

gardner51 · Mar 9, 2011

will do dude, but it will still run allright for now without the sensor pluged in/

ellz

sideways danny · Mar 9, 2011

yeah it'll run. will need the software looking at to see if it's activated or not too

slindborg · Mar 9, 2011

tbh, Narrowband sensors are only any good for Idle and low loadings.... Fitting a proper wideband would be far more beneficial, plus if the software is any good you can set target AFR's to nearly self tune

Omex help please?

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