In my car the temp sensor is in the black tube at top left of my picture which as you say has the built in fan.
My setup seems to be completely different from
@olvi pictures
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Only hot air out of heater!
- Thread starter nickhalluk
- Start date
My setup seems to be completely different from
@olvi pictures
This is what my sensor assembly looks like when removed from the car, if you look very closely you can see the blue blob in the end. I just cleared the dust and fluff and plugged it back in. It's a little noisy, but I can only here it with the engine/radio off but with ignition switched on. The road noise (which there isn't much of to be honest) and the radio drown out any noise from the fan in the sensor
Attachments
We have the same components and problem! Mine is a 2003 172.
So did the cleaning fix yours? I cleaned mine out yesterday but it didn't immediately fix the problem. Maybe something needs time to reset as mine is fine now? Will have to see how long it lasts. I don't normally run with the climate control turned on, just set the temp where I want it and has been fine this year. The AC is in good shape, it's been running nice and cold earlier this week.
Are there any other sensors?
It turns out that mine was simply disconnected. A previous owner or their mechanic disconnected it, but left the plug in situ if you get me?
The first time I pulled the panel down to have a look (although at the time I wasn't sure which component I was looking at), all my "sensors" appeared to be plugged in, as per my first picture, when I was trying to find out what was what lol. The little black square "sensor" at the bottom of that picture is actually a microphone for a hands free upgrade in the car.
The second time I pulled the panel down, I did so with the intent of buying a new sensor and was looking for a part no, the plug practically fell off, I plugged it back in and it started buzzing away. I removed it anyway to clean it as upon closer inspection there was lots of fluff around the fan blades and the little blue blob.
It appears to be working fine as the blower adjusts the air temp accordingly now as I change the temp or as the ambient temperatures change, well it works as well as it can as I've now discovered my aircon isn't working, so I do get cold air, but not icy cold.
Sorry for the long winded reply
The first time I pulled the panel down to have a look (although at the time I wasn't sure which component I was looking at), all my "sensors" appeared to be plugged in, as per my first picture, when I was trying to find out what was what lol. The little black square "sensor" at the bottom of that picture is actually a microphone for a hands free upgrade in the car.
The second time I pulled the panel down, I did so with the intent of buying a new sensor and was looking for a part no, the plug practically fell off, I plugged it back in and it started buzzing away. I removed it anyway to clean it as upon closer inspection there was lots of fluff around the fan blades and the little blue blob.
It appears to be working fine as the blower adjusts the air temp accordingly now as I change the temp or as the ambient temperatures change, well it works as well as it can as I've now discovered my aircon isn't working, so I do get cold air, but not icy cold.
Sorry for the long winded reply
Clio ph2 1.6 16V Sp
Another grateful reader. Thanks to original posts on page 1. A tip for aligning the cogs is to hold the panel gently in place and operate the air direction controls backwards and forwards and the temperature from max to min (with IGN ON) and the cogs will drop into place as the servo motors rotate. No need to remove motors.
Attachments
Bump again.
Picked up a Clio other day, soon as I got in car the fan buzzing was annoying me so I removed it out. Drove home (fans not in use) then whilst in car testing bits other day realised only blowing hot air.
I re-attached the sensor and the buzzing occurred pretty loud so of the 4 wires removed one which in turn stopped the fan and eliminated the buzz.
Fan still blows hot air so had a look on here and stumbled across this thread, might be a case that with the fan wire disconnected that I've created this issue. I'll buy the replacement part anyway 82 00 093 290 to see if that quietens down the buzzing noise.
Then I've just fitted my passenger bucket seat and will be doing the drivers one this weekend I think with the seat out of the car it'll be a good idea if for nothing more than preventive issue to carry out this task as I'm guessing without a drivers seat / subframe in the car it'll be much more ideal to work in the foot well regarding space.
Picked up a Clio other day, soon as I got in car the fan buzzing was annoying me so I removed it out. Drove home (fans not in use) then whilst in car testing bits other day realised only blowing hot air.
I re-attached the sensor and the buzzing occurred pretty loud so of the 4 wires removed one which in turn stopped the fan and eliminated the buzz.
Fan still blows hot air so had a look on here and stumbled across this thread, might be a case that with the fan wire disconnected that I've created this issue. I'll buy the replacement part anyway 82 00 093 290 to see if that quietens down the buzzing noise.
Then I've just fitted my passenger bucket seat and will be doing the drivers one this weekend I think with the seat out of the car it'll be a good idea if for nothing more than preventive issue to carry out this task as I'm guessing without a drivers seat / subframe in the car it'll be much more ideal to work in the foot well regarding space.
Update, refitted the sensor in the roof annoying buzzing re-appeared but fans still only blew hot air.
Went into foot well and removed the 3 x 6mm bolts (yes that top one is a f**king nightmare!) first 2 out in 30 seconds, last one took my 5 minutes of swearing with tiny turns. Anyway sure enough I saw the issue everyone else mentioned, un-clipped a connector plug to give more room, stuck a tie-wrap on, refitted it (didn't bother for now with top bolt) and started car for 5 minutes to get engine warmed.
As before warm air blowing, this time down to cold and hey presto cold air blew. Result fixed! all in all from start to finish I guesstimate it took me about 10 minutes fantastic little fix.
Cheers to those that wrote this fix and contributed to the thread!
Went into foot well and removed the 3 x 6mm bolts (yes that top one is a f**king nightmare!) first 2 out in 30 seconds, last one took my 5 minutes of swearing with tiny turns. Anyway sure enough I saw the issue everyone else mentioned, un-clipped a connector plug to give more room, stuck a tie-wrap on, refitted it (didn't bother for now with top bolt) and started car for 5 minutes to get engine warmed.
As before warm air blowing, this time down to cold and hey presto cold air blew. Result fixed! all in all from start to finish I guesstimate it took me about 10 minutes fantastic little fix.
Cheers to those that wrote this fix and contributed to the thread!
RS Clio 172 (Ph.2)
I had the same issue with “no cold air from the a/c reaching the cabin vents” & i’ve just successfully repaired the broken piece with a jubilee clip, I had to be a contortionist to fit it but with the help of this thread I just about managed to get the job done! ?
RS Clio 172 (Ph.2)
The hardest part for me was realigning the motors with the star holes. I had to turn the car on and adjust the settings to match as closely as I could, but one motor was in a position the star-hole couldn't get to, so I had to encourage the motor to move with some pliers.[/QUOTE]
I also had this same issue when refitting the servo motor onto the repaired shaft!
It confused the sh-t out of me for a while, it just would not seem to fit no matter what position the motor & shaft were in... ?
I also had this same issue when refitting the servo motor onto the repaired shaft!
It confused the sh-t out of me for a while, it just would not seem to fit no matter what position the motor & shaft were in... ?
RS Clio 172 (Ph.2)
This took me a lot longer than 10 minutes, most of the time was spent trying to realign the servo motors, grrr! ?
The problem I'm experiencing in my 172 is different - most of the time the cooling system works fine. But occasionally the heat goes to maximum without touching anything. Turn the car off and the car goes back to the set levels of heating. There's no set time period, sometimes it can go back to normal immediately, other times it needs to be left overnight, or longer.
As the temperature varies, I assume there's nothing wrong with the control valves/motors. It seems that something is making the car believe it's cold and needs heat. The heat goes high whether the air con/climate is on or off. To be able to survive in this hot weather I have to turn the heating off and open all the windows.
I've tried connecting/disconnecting the sensor with the fan in the roof light but no effect. Any thoughts on what the problem might be caused by?
As the temperature varies, I assume there's nothing wrong with the control valves/motors. It seems that something is making the car believe it's cold and needs heat. The heat goes high whether the air con/climate is on or off. To be able to survive in this hot weather I have to turn the heating off and open all the windows.
I've tried connecting/disconnecting the sensor with the fan in the roof light but no effect. Any thoughts on what the problem might be caused by?
So my problem is the opposite - im only getting cold air.
Whipped the cover off and my cog is fine, and i swapped the plugs around to prove each motor works. Which they do.
It seems the plug for the temp controller doesn't work however.
Where do i go with this? Would this specific feed have its own fuse?
Whipped the cover off and my cog is fine, and i swapped the plugs around to prove each motor works. Which they do.
It seems the plug for the temp controller doesn't work however.
Where do i go with this? Would this specific feed have its own fuse?
Valeo's servo issue.
After removing the servo's panel and Fixing the broken cog i turned the AC few times to look on the servo's moves...
However, I didn't notice but the higher servo (not the hot cold one) turned to the opposite direction , Which means that it moves in the exact opposite direction from the white cog.
ofc that they won't fit now and i can't close the servos panel.
You can clearly see it in the attached pic (The close servo).
Any help
?
After removing the servo's panel and Fixing the broken cog i turned the AC few times to look on the servo's moves...
However, I didn't notice but the higher servo (not the hot cold one) turned to the opposite direction , Which means that it moves in the exact opposite direction from the white cog.
ofc that they won't fit now and i can't close the servos panel.
You can clearly see it in the attached pic (The close servo).
Any help
?Attachments
Turn them on the parts attached to the car.Valeo's servo issue.
After removing the servo's panel and Fixing the broken cog i turned the AC few times to look on the servo's moves...
However, I didn't notice but the higher servo (not the hot cold one) turned to the opposite direction , Which means that it moves in the exact opposite direction from the white cog.
ofc that they won't fit now and i can't close the servos panel.
You can clearly see it in the attached pic (The close servo).
Any help
Persiflage
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172 Phase 2
Priceless thread, thanks quys. Black female spline drive found cracked and a lot of wear to the splines. Cable tie fitted and it seems to work fine now .... Time will tell. A simple job but not the easiest, if that makes sense, especially for an old man like me.
Be reet, I'm not going back in there again no matter what😂.
ripp
ClioSport Club Member
182 FFAT
Bump!
I have the same problem here, all fine and dandy until I took it apart, cable tied the broken part but it is heavily misaligned to the motor shaft. The broken thingy has a certain range of motion, so does the motor axle but they are out of alignment. I tried to sketch the issue bellow. Basically I have to correct the motor axle operating range. How to do that?
I have the same problem here, all fine and dandy until I took it apart, cable tied the broken part but it is heavily misaligned to the motor shaft. The broken thingy has a certain range of motion, so does the motor axle but they are out of alignment. I tried to sketch the issue bellow. Basically I have to correct the motor axle operating range. How to do that?
VenomUK
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
Apart from cable tie or a new unit is there a "proper" fix, taking nothing away from the cable tie fix as that's about as proper as it gets.
As the car is tracked and decided to keep the AC. I'd like the standard manual knob controls rather than climate... Can this be done?
As the car is tracked and decided to keep the AC. I'd like the standard manual knob controls rather than climate... Can this be done?
ripp
ClioSport Club Member
182 FFAT
Ok so I sorted mine out couple of moments ago.
The problem with the missaligned motor shaft still persisted no matter how much I played with the climate panel temp buttons, it was basically 180 degrees out of sync.
So, according to what someone said here about the gears in the motor assembly, I did it like this:
Started the car, climate on full cold and on Auto setting.
*note: the cog is rotated towards of the car when on full cold so I spun it in that direction by hand.
This was with both motors wired, to set their shafts in that particular setting.
Stopped the car and the climate also. Now I disconnected the missaligned motor - it's held onto that plate by two 6mm screws, identical to the other 3 that keep the entire plate in place.
After moving a little bit by hand the white gears controlling the vents I quickly managed to align the remaining motor (the one without the problem) to it's white cog and install the plate in place. I only used 2 screws to keep the plate in place.
I made sure once again that the damaged (and cable tie repaided cog) is rotated to the front all the way (cold air setting).
Now, when you hold the motor in your hand you'll see that it has 3 pins holding it to it's gear mechanism and shaft, you can easily take it apart carefully with 2 thin flathead screwdrivers.
After you do this, you will be able to rotate the shaft in the gearhousing accordingly and install the gear mechanism ONLY to the main plate, carefully aligning it to the cog. Having the motor detached this will be very easy to do. Then, just bolt down the gear housing with the 2 screws and then clip the motor onto it carefully, don't rush this in order to prevent damage to the inner plastic gears.
Plug the power supply back to the motor and bingo!
Now startd the car and test the climate control buttons to make sure it all works.
Mine did
Ok so now the question is:
Why is this happening? asw far as I can judge there can be 2 scenarios:
1. the ceiling temp sensor reads badly, tricking the motor to try and rotate the cog to the cold air setting more and more untill it snaps
2. Maybe the motor itself goes bananas little by little and puts pressure on the cog that eventually causes the same issue - SNAP!
Given this, can we prevent this from happening again somehow?
Cheers!
The problem with the missaligned motor shaft still persisted no matter how much I played with the climate panel temp buttons, it was basically 180 degrees out of sync.
So, according to what someone said here about the gears in the motor assembly, I did it like this:
Started the car, climate on full cold and on Auto setting.
*note: the cog is rotated towards of the car when on full cold so I spun it in that direction by hand.
This was with both motors wired, to set their shafts in that particular setting.
Stopped the car and the climate also. Now I disconnected the missaligned motor - it's held onto that plate by two 6mm screws, identical to the other 3 that keep the entire plate in place.
After moving a little bit by hand the white gears controlling the vents I quickly managed to align the remaining motor (the one without the problem) to it's white cog and install the plate in place. I only used 2 screws to keep the plate in place.
I made sure once again that the damaged (and cable tie repaided cog) is rotated to the front all the way (cold air setting).
Now, when you hold the motor in your hand you'll see that it has 3 pins holding it to it's gear mechanism and shaft, you can easily take it apart carefully with 2 thin flathead screwdrivers.
After you do this, you will be able to rotate the shaft in the gearhousing accordingly and install the gear mechanism ONLY to the main plate, carefully aligning it to the cog. Having the motor detached this will be very easy to do. Then, just bolt down the gear housing with the 2 screws and then clip the motor onto it carefully, don't rush this in order to prevent damage to the inner plastic gears.
Plug the power supply back to the motor and bingo!
Now startd the car and test the climate control buttons to make sure it all works.
Mine did
Ok so now the question is:
Why is this happening? asw far as I can judge there can be 2 scenarios:
1. the ceiling temp sensor reads badly, tricking the motor to try and rotate the cog to the cold air setting more and more untill it snaps
2. Maybe the motor itself goes bananas little by little and puts pressure on the cog that eventually causes the same issue - SNAP!
Given this, can we prevent this from happening again somehow?
Cheers!
Your cable tie will hold it together. It's a 15+ year old piece of plastic that's had that little gear tatting into it millions of times and it's fatiuged and given up. If you buy a brand new one it'll last the same time before it wears out again. But it'll cost a s**t load more than a cable tie.
Hijacking this thread... i got a different issue on mine;
The steel cable kind of bent that regulates the direction the air flows (speed is eletronic and hot&cold is the 2nd steel cable that's OK), idk if the manual wheel's did all the force for it to bent or if the manual wheels are damaged but i wanna replace the steel cable... there's a problem, i can't find any on any junkyard and online, is there a specific name for it? It's probably not commercialized enough because i never saw one fail but f damn.
Any advice?
I'll probably replace the steel cable and try to align the wheels but my bet is they're somewhat f'd and i'd need to replace everything there..
hot and cold air works though
The steel cable kind of bent that regulates the direction the air flows (speed is eletronic and hot&cold is the 2nd steel cable that's OK), idk if the manual wheel's did all the force for it to bent or if the manual wheels are damaged but i wanna replace the steel cable... there's a problem, i can't find any on any junkyard and online, is there a specific name for it? It's probably not commercialized enough because i never saw one fail but f damn.
Any advice?
I'll probably replace the steel cable and try to align the wheels but my bet is they're somewhat f'd and i'd need to replace everything there..
hot and cold air works though
SharpyClio
ClioSport Club Member
Okay, as we all love a Zombie thread! This has been really useful, however one question.
What does each motor control?
I hadn't managed to get them aligned and have gone from cold to hot and after today back to cold. I seemingly have not control over it. The motor furthest from the bulkhead works as I can see it moving and I can also see it moving now its back in place, however the forward of the two I couldn't see moving but im not sure what it does and if what I was doing would initiate a move or not.
Its the only thing I cant see in this thread is what each motor does.
Thanks!
What does each motor control?
I hadn't managed to get them aligned and have gone from cold to hot and after today back to cold. I seemingly have not control over it. The motor furthest from the bulkhead works as I can see it moving and I can also see it moving now its back in place, however the forward of the two I couldn't see moving but im not sure what it does and if what I was doing would initiate a move or not.
Its the only thing I cant see in this thread is what each motor does.
Thanks!
