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Opps I ruined a Trophy - track car build



Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
Start of the year I felt the need to get a track day car. I had some suspension and thought rather than sell it I’d use it.

I went searching for a cheapish and good condition track focused Clio. Something with many of the right modifications already done.

I got a call from a friend about a car he knew of and went to see this

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This was over budget and totally not what I wanted but well priced for a Trophy as it’s been properly used. It’s been kept running tip top and has very minor mods.

remember me saying this wasn’t really what I wanted... well I bought it!

rethink time. It’s actually perfect. By not going too extreme I can revert it to standard again and keep the important bits in good nick. This will stop me doing silly things.

Keeping a business operational through Covid meant it sat gathering dust but I’ve booked a track day for November so I’d better get it ready.

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First was to get some replacement springs
The suspension was originally set up for slicks but needed softening a little.
Still this is 90nm fronts and 105nm rear
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
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If I’m going to do this I’ll do it right. Some roll centre hubs collected and ready.
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Staring with the rear. Get the springs on

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And fitted.
I used Powerflex purple top bushes simply because they were on the car previously.

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With the other side done it seems to sit at a nice height :) we’ll stick with that for now
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
Final bit for the day as time is short. One front assembled.
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All reassembled. Top nut with Loctite to make sure it stays. Next task is to crack the hub nuts and get the old Sachs dampers off and tucked away but that will have to wait. 4 weeks before the track day so need to get a crack on...
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
I'm going to ignore wiring for now as I'm not looking forward to trying to find a suitable hole front and rear to run the suspension electronics through

Jacked up the front and got to work.
Its surprising how bad brakes can look after 6 months shut away.

So far everything has come off quickly and easily and really shows the car was cared for regularly by the previous owner.
My handy tip for the day. When changing brakes always have cable ties to hang the caliper out the way and prevent damage to the brake line.:D

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The front discs are not really worn but when changing pads some compounds can contaminate the new pad. Mintex is certainly one I've heard about so I'll get some new discs on there as a precaution. I'll keep them as spares and mark them up left and right with a sharpie pen. Now its time to get the hubs and track rod ends off...
 

frayz

ClioSport Club Member
Love those Tractive dampers. I was looking at a few sets with Chris @ Centre Gravity last friday.
What spring rates have you gone for, am i reading right @ 110/60?
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
Its a lovely kit with a great attention to detail on its components compared to most suspension I've handled. I think Nitron are good in this respect too.
Fronts are now 90nm (down from 110nm) and the rear is 105nm.

I developed this kit with Tractive originally for full slicks so it had higher spring rates initially. Even with this setup its pretty much for track only.
I may have to get the fronts revalved in time to get a setup right for this chassis but I'll test the full adjustment of the current damping on the trackday and see where I'm at with grip levels front and rear.

I'll come to the electronics setup as I wire it in but its a proper toy for the boys :D
 

frayz

ClioSport Club Member
Its a lovely kit with a great attention to detail on its components compared to most suspension I've handled. I think Nitron are good in this respect too.
Fronts are now 90nm (down from 110nm) and the rear is 105nm.

I developed this kit with Tractive originally for full slicks so it had higher spring rates initially. Even with this setup its pretty much for track only.
I may have to get the fronts revalved in time to get a setup right for this chassis but I'll test the full adjustment of the current damping on the trackday and see where I'm at with grip levels front and rear.

I'll come to the electronics setup as I wire it in but its a proper toy for the boys :D

Yeah Chris is running it on his 3.2 Carrera track car with the full active setup. Id love a plush set for the road but its a bit overkill for waht i want. I went 70/40 on AST5100s and i wish id gone slightly softer still. Its always a compromise isnt it.
 

gambit

ClioSport Club Member
  182 Trophy
Very nice. Are you supplying Tractive dampers? They look lovely.
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
For a road car you want suspension movement / travel. I'd take a finger in the air a good coilover setup not much stiffer than standard - maybe 100lb firmer as a starting point. I think Bilstein run 400lb fronts off the top of my head but a softish rear for stability in wet conditions. (I certainly like it a bit more snappy at the rear as I grew up with Pug 205's) Theres improvement in the damper technology itself and something like Tractive would adjust automatically on the move. With more damper motion I'd want to potentially play with dual springs.
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
Very nice. Are you supplying Tractive dampers? They look lovely.
Yes we supply them :D Its a big price to pay so not something I generally push on the Renault market but it becomes more competitively priced on higher end sports and supercars.
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
The unit is getting a reshuffle so the pressure was on to get the car rolling. I needed to build one side.
Couldnt get the abs sensor off due to a rounded nut so cut the cable to enable me to remove the hub.

Took a blowtorch to the track rod end and got that off easy. I undid the outer ball joint and took the whole Sachs suspension and hub off in one go.
The hub to damper nuts were so furry they did not want to come out so I worked round the issue.
Image1.jpg


I assembled the new Tractive coilovers to the hubs, coated everything with ACF-50 and lifted them up to the chassis complete. Was probably not the best way as its all quite heavy. Had to frantically put the top mount together one handed to support it all and get the driveshaft in place.
I used new bolts to hold the coilover to the hub as the old ones looked rather tired

New Brembo HC Disc went on easily enough but the caliper carriers needed attention. One slider was looking rather bent and the rubber had perished. I'm surprised it was not causing a sticking pad.
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Raided the stock again and got a slider kit. A quick wire brush and a flick of the shims into the bin and it was ready
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Now for brake pads! I've chosen Winmax W6 as they are nice and progressive and have loads of bite. The padshape is based on the original shape so goes in nicely. It all was free but tighter than I'd like so I filed the ends a little to make sure there would be no issues when hot.

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All assembled rather effortlessly.
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Other side to do when the car does not need to be moved. hub nut needs tightening, new abs sensor needs fitting and I need to work out where to thread the wires to inside the car.

I'm certainly sore and needing a cup of tea.
 

Louis

ClioSport Club Member
The unit is getting a reshuffle so the pressure was on to get the car rolling. I needed to build one side.
Couldnt get the abs sensor off due to a rounded nut so cut the cable to enable me to remove the hub.

Took a blowtorch to the track rod end and got that off easy. I undid the outer ball joint and took the whole Sachs suspension and hub off in one go.
The hub to damper nuts were so furry they did not want to come out so I worked round the issue.
View attachment 1501329

I assembled the new Tractive coilovers to the hubs, coated everything with ACF-50 and lifted them up to the chassis complete. Was probably not the best way as its all quite heavy. Had to frantically put the top mount together one handed to support it all and get the driveshaft in place.
I used new bolts to hold the coilover to the hub as the old ones looked rather tired

New Brembo HC Disc went on easily enough but the caliper carriers needed attention. One slider was looking rather bent and the rubber had perished. I'm surprised it was not causing a sticking pad.
View attachment 1501330
Raided the stock again and got a slider kit. A quick wire brush and a flick of the shims into the bin and it was ready
View attachment 1501331

Now for brake pads! I've chosen Winmax W6 as they are nice and progressive and have loads of bite. The padshape is based on the original shape so goes in nicely. It all was free but tighter than I'd like so I filed the ends a little to make sure there would be no issues when hot.

View attachment 1501332

All assembled rather effortlessly.
View attachment 1501333

Other side to do when the car does not need to be moved. hub nut needs tightening, new abs sensor needs fitting and I need to work out where to thread the wires to inside the car.

I'm certainly sore and needing a cup of tea.
Seeing that passenger side driveshaft just loose makes me tense. Unless the box was already drained? :ROFLMAO:
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
Sometimes you have to gamble a little lol
Didn’t seem too difficult to keep it in place :)
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
Other side is 95% done. I've not swapped one track rod end at the moment as I was concerned I'd round off the nut. It's booked in for MOT and front alignment next Wednesday so I'll tackle that when on the garage ramps as access will be more convenent.

It was definitely the worst side. The Sachs damper looks to have been leaking from the top of the remote canister so the wishbone and driveshaft were well coated with sludge. Nothing really wanted to come apart either. Undoing the wishbone ball joint bolts with two massive breaker bars was a thankless task. I think the driveshaft could do with a new outer CV joint at some point but I'll park that thought for after the trackday.


Now its time for this...
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Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
Oh and new front ABS sensors are fitted> I'm using these as support for running the front wiring out of the wheel wells.

So I need to run two front damper cables through the bulkhead.
I need to run the power cable through the bulkhead and connect to the battery (its looking a bit short on wire as I think Tractive assume a battery in the boot or passenger area ie: a proper racecar)
For the rear I need to drill to holes in the boot floor and run cables through there to the rear dampers

I hate electrics and have avoided doing anything wiring wise so this is the fist in my mouth moment. There hopefully is a convenient bulkhead grommet which can be hijacked.
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
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We are back on four wheels!
I drilled two holes for the wiring at the rear and connected the cables. I’ve done a temporary (bodge) seal with roofing rubber sealant as I need to find a more permanent wiring route but hey...this is a test!

I reckon I can wire into the lighter wiring for power but I’m going to do this when I get its Wheel alignment done at the garage tomorrow.


I've tweaked the driver side coil over as it was a lot lower with the engine weight on it so we are now roughly equal height left and right

At the Last minute I decided to fit the Pure Motorsport Stud Kit on the front as I’m getting pissed off taking the wheels off and on.

Ive also ordered the Pro-am rear exhaust brackets as mine are all ropy and I think the exhaust mount hanger bolts are all going to snap off. Hoping that arrives tomorrow
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
Front is too low on the passenger side as the car settled. I scraped all the way to the garage lol Thats a simple fix I can do in 5 minutes.
They are going to get the car on the ramps and see if we can wire down the exhaust tunnel and into the car next to the gearlever instead of the bulkhead as it will be simpler. They are doing the MOT first though to hunt any road legal issues so I await a call.

The drive confirmed that the dampers even running passively have rather good high speed bump. They were not crashing over the bumps and cracks in the road.
Overall the car is certainly stiff though so has that bounce around you get with track coilovers. Wouldnt be good as a daily but I dont think I'll be too upset as I drive to each circuit. The bump and roll correction has made a noticable difference too. It felt good even with the wheel alignment totally out of whack.
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
Its 11pm and It’s been a long 7 hour slog but I have a fully working car. Just finished at the garage and it’s all gravy. We didn’t drill the bulkhead to sort the power to the suspension control unit but I think that’s a story for tomorrow. Just scoffing a jam sandwich as a really pants dinner and I’m going to bed.
here’s a quick teaser pic of how it was when I arrived.
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Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
I will put a few thanks in.
Firstly Scott at Pro-Am Racing for sorting me some replacement exhaust hanger mounts. Had a problem with their normal courier and swiftly resolved it :D
If anyone has a 182 with manky mounts then they are an excellent buy.

Then to ITG who when I requested an air filter kindly donated one unexpectedly to the cause. My first sponsor lol
This open cone has a solid base to attach onto a silicon hose and also is about as good as it gets for dirt filtration on a performance filter.

Thirdly Brooks Auto Repair in Aylesbury. An exceptional work ethic and worked well beyond normal business hours to get the job done in time.
If anyone needs a garage local they are worth a call...
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Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
So unusual for a Renault the MOT was swift and uneventful.
Terry at Brooks Auto Repair asked whether I wanted them to double check what I had fitted and make sure everything was ok. They managed to spot a few mistakes and went over the whole suspension, checking and marking as they went. Each of their mechanics has a paint pen so they know who has checked what.
It allows a quick visual inspection to see if anything has moved or undone. They also got all the ride heights corrected.
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They did the oil change on the engine and gearbox. I went with Motul Sport 5W40 for the engine oil as its an ester based oil as well as having less cleaning additives in - its a purer oil more suited for race and track use where high mileage is not such a concern but maximising shear resistance and lubrication.
Motul RBF660 needs no introduction. Should work well for the higher brake temps on track, and finally for the gearbox the
Redline MT-90 gear oil. Its a high grade ester based oil again designed for high temperatures.
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They changed the rear brakes for me as I had run out of time. Renault OEM rear discs, our Grams Spacers and some Winmax W4 brake pads went on.
I've gone for a reasonably aggressive compound compared to most but I want to keep similar brake bias to the original car without fitting a bias valve.
I got a panicked call from them as one of the rear caliper bleed nipples was rounded off. Someone in the cars previous life had properly chewed it up.
Luckily when I turned up they had managed to borrow one from a Peugeot 205 they are restoring :D

The rear brakes were interesting. They were bodged on with random chunky washers.
IMG_0205.JPG


Surprisingly the bearings seemed ok but I'm sure theres potential for an issue when nice and hot and under load.
I left them to replacing the brake fluid. Apparently it was rather manky.
I needed to do a vital modification. Making more noise. Now I may get chastised for an open cone but I think theres enough air flowing through the enginebay at high speed for it not to be a problem :D
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The next task - sort a sagging exhaust. Due to the dire state of the original parts the Pro-Am Racing bracket mounts were needed.
I've put a prototype compound for our Grams exhaust mounts in so I can test the durability

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and the new
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and its looking good from the rear!!

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Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
So we'd done the easy jobs and it was time for a ponder over a coffee.
How were we going to do the wiring? Terry had a brainwave and got out a thing that runs power off the fuse box. This would save chasing a cable to the front and drilling the bulkhead (which with full interior would not be quick or straightforward.)
It sits in place of a fuse. You then run the original fuse in one slot - and a fused power output off the other.
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I need to modify the cover to fit and protect it but thats a job for another day.
The ignition on wire is spliced soldered into the lighter wiring.

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Now we discussed what to do with the front suspension wiring. We decided to run it down the exhaust tunnel. The gearlever tower looked good to me so I went up on the ramp to change gears while Terry checked where we had clearance.
A hole was made in the front and we threaded the wiring through. Some P clips to hold the wiring away and then it was a careful task of routing the wires all the way to the front wheel arches.
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and then...
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and then I forgot to take pictures lol but a big blob of silicon sealant to waterproof the hole then the wiring was cable tied out the way to stop any movement or rubbing. It pops out in the wheel well with the ABS wiring with enough slack for the wheel to move lock to lock. Final double check before getting all the wheels back on, the nuts torqued up and the car back on four wheels.
I could then pop the fuse for the electronics in and let the suspension calibrate. Lastly a little test drive to make sure it worked and the suspension was settled so it was ready for the tracking. We've gone conservative on the front and left the rear so I can assess how the car handles first before we play with the chassis setup more.
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And that was a wrap for the evening :D I'm not sure this is the best way but its all working!
 
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Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
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Still got this to sort :D Wiring can be tucked away to neaten it a bit.I'll have to do something more permanent to get the wiring under the carpet.
I've bedded in the brakes and it feels rather good
In the daylight it looks the part!
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Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
Loving this build mate, thanks for sharing

thanks! It’s a bit different to my usual half finished project attempts. I booked a track day to force a deadline :)

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Interior is in and due to the velcro not sticking to the dash for some reason I’ve used a cable tie through the vent holding a bit of Velcro to hold the damper adjustment module in a convenient place. Proper last minute bodge.

fitted the rear studs, as it’s rather wet I’ve put covers on the coil overs. They are a bit too large girth so hoping they won’t rub on the chassis
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Then a clean and one final piece on the front in case I crash.
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I think I’m ready for the track day at Brands on Monday 😀
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
Been a great day at Brands. The car performed so well considering it’s basic spec. I however did end the day on a recovery truck. A series of unfortunate mechanical issues culminated in that I’m going to need a few bits.
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I’ll write a full report in due course
 
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Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
Indeedy!
I baked the driveshafts and as they were heading towards needing replacing the outer CV's failed. I left the pits to test to see whether it would be going home by recovery truck and as the car cooled + the mental vibration the studs undid and dropped off. Theres me thinking it was the driveshaft getting worse. Luckily I was almost at a stop so damage is sort of limited. Frustrating end but its repairable. Wishbone and disc saved the chassis.

I generally learn something as I make mistakes and I could have done things a bit differently.
Theres also room for improvement to the car to help prevent silly issues like this.
And I think I may invest in a trailer so the pressure of repairing trackside is reduced.
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
Thats some fancy ass suspension! What can it do?
Basically it actively monitors the chassis motion and adjusts the damping of each corner independantly. The car stays more stable when cornering and braking and you can ride the kerbs without upsetting the car dramatically. In theory it should keep the tyres flatter and give more grip. I certainly felt I could use all the track and track limits at Brands yesterday quite effortlessly.
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
Not sure it is hugely advantagous vs a proper high end passive damper but as Tractive also do those and say their active suspension is better then you have to buy into it a little :D
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
Monday - Brands Hatch Report.

It was an early start but I made it to Brands with no fuss. Its been a long time since I did any of this so have to admit to being fairly nervous.
I didnt really take much in the way of pictures so excuse the lack of media content :D

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The good news was it was raining. This suited me fine as it suits a low powered FWD car and having never driven a Clio on track I had some learning to do.
I fitted an old CG lock before I went on and this kept me nicely in place and not craving a full set of harnesses.

The suspension has transformed the car. I find the standard chassis balance rather boring - it understeers way too much but the Tractive suspension certainly gives a more exciting sharpness to corner turn in. Grip was pretty reasonable though without a diff I was fighting for traction on the exit of Druids and Graham Hill bends and Mclaren Bends into Craner Curves. Paddock Hill bend is quite a sight as you first drop down into it and I think my favourite of the Circuit. I do not think its the most technical on the Indy circuit however it bites when you get it wrong. One driver (Alex) absolutely stacked it and rolled his 182 4-5 times.
I just caught it on video. Apparently he was largely unharmed and the car drove back on his trailer which considering it was not caged was amazing.

Death of a Clio Video

Being wet the first session felt like I was driving on ice. I checked the tyre pressures and the Yokohama AD08R had still managed to get very hot and needed about 4 psi let out. This did improve grip but an LSD would drastically improve corner exit speed as the nose washes out wide quite easily if you are too aggressive on the power. The Clio excelled in the wetter conditions as others were unwilling to push as hard. For me it felt more and more comfortable.

There were loads of Clio's out so I felt the need to be the fastest :D There were some great Meganes on track and they romped away on the straights. I think a Red 3RS had 400bhp and that flew round. They benefited massively with having the fancy diffs too so I was a little jealous - plus I think the 3RS looks fantastic to follow. I chased the faster cars anyway like a small dog chasing a man on a bike. Anything was fair game and it was a blast.

The track dried out and the pace of everyone increased accordingly so the afternoon favoured the bigger powered cars as they could get traction. I also began to concentrate more on what the car was doing and I realised some of the skittish cornering was the traction control (rather than the road surface) coming off and on. As Chris at Beaniesport was messaging me for parts I told him of my annoyance and he pointed me to the TC Unit next to the handbrake. This car was rather better for the lack of intrusion.

IMG_0232.JPG

This device is pure evil...


The Tractive suspension is nothing short of epic. I was able to use all the kerbs and the car never got unstable. The fast bump reaction time meant that even on Paddock Hill Bend I could nip the apex kerb without unsettingly the chassis. The morning I ran the damping on softer settings to allow more weight transfer but for the afternoon I ramped up the dial to maximise the stability. The chassis was wonderfully slightly nervous and went where I steered it yetwas easily able to be adjusted by the throttle after the corner apex. I was able to brake as late as I dared with the Winmax and the Clio really in summary did everything I wanted of it. I think under braking the rear only got unstable once or twice into Paddock Hill Bend as I hammered the brakes. I've had a look at the new rear exhaust mount compound and that survived the abuse I gave it too.

The drying track and increased heat turned out to be the factor to end my day though and I cooked the driveshafts. I got a knocking sound and vibration suddenly and had to coast to the pits. I checked the front end over and both driveshafts had a fair bit of play so that was the day over.

I let the car cool, packed up and headed out the pits to see if cooling would reduce the vibration enough to drive home. I didnt get far before the vibration suddenly got very loud. As I had only made it up to about 20mph I quickly slowed and turned to pull over and the wheel fell off. If you want to slap fun in the face have this happen!

The only good thing about the incident was the comradery from other trackday drivers. A group stopped to help and basically with a bit of group thinking saved my arse. We got a jack under the rear of the car, wedged an old fence post (that one found in the bushes) under the front so we could then move the jack down enough to get the wheel back on. One found two studs after a little searching and we got the car rolling again.
One of the guys helping runs his own recovery business so I got him to take me home. Damage is minimal considering as the chassis landed on the disc and wishbone and nothing else. I might have scrapped the front skirt a bit more but the wing took the brunt.

So there are some thoughts to assimilate so a list is required:

1. If you have small brakes old driveshafts will die.
2. With mettalic pads the Clio 182 brakes get too hot in the dry to not to have cooling ducts.
3. Thermal contraction as brakes cool will loosen nuts and dead driveshafts act like an impact hammer.
4. Bring the car on a trailer. Its easier to check over a car at home with no pressure.
5. Dry tracks need grippier tyres no matter what the air temperature.
6. You will rub the inner arch liners no matter how stiff the suspension (I'll trim these down or remove them)
7. You dont need to strip out your car to be fast
8. Theres enough feedback through the powersteering so dont remove it.
9. Get the aircon regassed. Its hot work.
10. Dont leave the circuit without tripple checking everything that could be loose (importantly after the car has cooled) - I will always have a doubt about when those nuts loosened.

So thats it really for the winter as we now have a list of repairs to do (Another list)

1.Two driveshafts have been ordered. A Renault reconditioned unit for one side and SKF driveshaft for the other.
2.I've ordered some Renault OEM front brake discs - they have extra cooling holes compared to the Brembo discs.
3. I need to replace the passenger wishbone as that took some of the impact as well as the disc
4. I just need to find a passenger wing
5. Get a new OZ alloy (or repair)
6. Dent repair the passenger door as it got kissed by the wheel.

There should also be a modifications list as no doubt more fettling is required for more fun. Mainly I need to think a little like I'm building an endurance racecar so keeping everything cool.

1. A proper bucket seat will be a good investment. This is mainly as I lacked enough bolster support for my legs when cornering.
2. The brakes need cooling ducts and possibly deflectors on the wishbones to direct air to the hubs.
3. The outer CV joints will benefit from cooling ducts too. I have some ideas for doing this...
4. Get some stickier rubber for the dry sessions.
5. The car needs an LSD.
6. Gearlever position would be better with a PMS shifter.
7. Consider powersteering cooling
8. trim the plastic inner arch liners for tyre clearance on full compression
9. Something I've forgotten


I will upload a video of me going round in a moment. Just figuring out how to trim the video down...

IMG_0229.JPG
 

JamesBryan

ClioSport Club Member
  Titanium 182
Can you not just turn ESP off on the button, without having to mess with the yaw sensor under the handbrake?
 

ZachB

ClioSport Club Member
  182
I want to put aircon back in mine! I was thinking of an electric pump from a tesla or the likes as Im going to run an aftermarket pas pump.
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
I want to put aircon back in mine! I was thinking of an electric pump from a tesla or the likes as Im going to run an aftermarket pas pump.
I didnt want to go the whole 'strip everything out' trackcar but wanted something you can just jump in and drive with relative ease. If it was not so low it could be driven easily on the road despite the hard spring rates.

Can you not just turn ESP off on the button, without having to mess with the yaw sensor under the handbrake?

That I dont know. Someone with better knowledge than I will hopefully comment on that :D The good thing about the Clio interior plastics is you just pull them off and in 30 seconds disconnect the plug!

Cracking honest real world report!
It's so nice to have a circuit garage too.

Ha! I'm no veteran of trackdays so its a learning curve.
I was expecting the weather to be awful in November so insisted in getting a garage. Was worth it just to empty the boot but £20 extra to stay out the mornings rain was value for money.
 

Kev@KAM

ClioSport Trader
  Badass Toyota
Doesnt that sensor effect abs too?
No :D. I think the ABS either needs to detect a fault to turn off - maybe unplugging one sensor - or you remove the fuse, gain loads of rear bias and crash on the first corner...
 


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