Outer cv boot split, clunk on accelerating/ braking

[MorroN]

My GF noticed a bit of a clunk when accelerating. Its a single clunk when pulling away/ accelerating quite hard.

I checked the car over and found the OS outer cv joint boot has a small hole and has pissed grease everywhere.

Could the joint now be drying out/failing and causing the clunk? Any way to test the joint further? Would be nice if I just need a boot rather than a driveshaft

Also noticed some grease got onto the brakes and the inner brake pad is impregnated with grease so I guess these needs to be changed too, less than 1k miles old 🤦‍♂️

 

[Robbie Corbett]

Have you driven it yet to diagnose?

When my other half tells me the car has a clonk what that means is the wheel is hanging on by a few loose atoms and the clunk is actually like The Rock has hit a lower arm with a sledge hammer.

When I say a clunk I mean a very gentle thud that you can barely hear or feel.

IME CV joints make more or a hard edged click, it can happen when accelerating or braking. You might be lucky and get away with repacking the CV with grease however new CV joints are pretty cheap from the likes of J&R and come with a boot.

 

[MorroN]

I just took it out. Its not super loud but you can ‘feel’ it the drive train and it sounds quite high energy/ under load if that makes any sense. Not a click or a clunk but a sharp bang. Like someones smacking it with a plastic mallet.

The hole is tiny so I'm going to try repacking and patching it as a temp fix. Then see if the noise goes away -> replace the boot.

if it needs replacing am I not better off doing the whole shaft?
The J&R ones look very cheap but there are a few reports on here of the inner boot catching on the engine or something, any experience of that?

 

[Jekyll]

The side that catches on the J&R shafts is drivers side. The passenger side one is a straight swap.

 

[MorroN]

The side that catches on the J&R shafts is drivers side. The passenger side one is a straight swap.

Sods law its the side that I need 😅

 

[Robbie Corbett]

But not if your replace just the outer

It's very easy, I did it without even removing the shaft.

My advice would be to also ditch the snap rings and just be careful if the boot anytime you remove the shaft/hub.

Also, no way you are packing the CV properly with it in place. Sorry.

 

[MorroN]

But not if your replace just the outer
View attachment 1613573

It's very easy, I did it without even removing the shaft.

My advice would be to also ditch the snap rings and just be careful if the boot anytime you remove the shaft/hub.

Also, no way you are packing the CV properly with it in place. Sorry.

Probably right about the grease.
Tbh as a noob that just sounds like more for me to f**k up. Im not how it would even come apart to be honest

The shaftec r218ar shafts allegedly fit perfectly and are only £120 after returning my old one.
May even end up taking a garage, as I have no time to do it over the next few weeks 😰

 

[Robbie Corbett]

They just knock off, maybe an hour's job. Just don't wear your best clothes because CV grease is horrid!

 

[MorroN]

They just knock off, maybe an hour's job. Just don't wear your best clothes because CV grease is horrid!

Okay cool I’ll bear that in mind.
I Injected a load of cv grease in the boot hole patched the hole with a bike puncture repair kit ( LOL I know this is dumb, not doing any miles just want to not piss grease everywhere while I diagnose the noise).
The patch held on a short drive but couldn’t get the noise to reappear 🤷‍♂️