PEC rods

[rich83]

Hi chaps,
So PEC have a somewhat mixed review base out on the internet, and a respected tuner who's opinion I value wouldn't use them. I see a few people on here are running them so just wondering if anyone has had any issues with them?
I am having second thoughts about using them now and might just go for Arrow's for peace of mind. It'll only be abut 220bhp and 7.5k, kinda think standard 200 rods would be better than PEC's too?

Also what is the crack with the PEC/Supertech pistons then? Supertech make them for PEC? Does this mean they are good as iirc is Supertech are generally considered good components (valves etc).

Cheers all

 

[Dan@SJM]

I've used them, no issues.

 

[Laine_16v]

I was advised not to use them, as there big end machining has been found to be a little oval on ocassions. I went for catcam rods and were assured they were better quality, but it all looks fresh out of China of you ask me anyway.

 

[rich83]

The cap design around the bolts has a very steep angle and I've seen similar rods (including but limited to PEC) with that design suffer fatigue/cracking at that point. If you look at Arrow and other top brands they all have a much smoother radius.
Also read just now about occasional oval big ends like you mention. Starting to think it seems like a gamble which for the sake of another £500 is not something to skimp on, because then it's bye-bye expensive pistons and valves

 

[NorthloopCup]

I'm going to be running with heat treated R3 maxi rods and arp rod bolts in mine - or in other words, standard Renault rods. They'll withstand a lot of abuse tbf. If it's a full on race engine you want arrows or sainz rods.

 

[rich83]

What rev limit are you setting on yours yet do you know, being hydraulic lifters I assume it'll be about 7.8k tops?

 

[NorthloopCup]

What rev limit are you setting on yours yet do you know, being hydraulic lifters I assume it'll be about 7.8k tops?

8k on the hardcut so it'll probably go to about 8200 by the time it's had time to think what's going on. Run the risk of the finger followers jumping off, but I'm not to worried by it tbh. My standard 172 f4r gets sent to 8k without any dramas! Lol! It's sustained and continuous high rpm that will kill the standard rods, but tbh you've got other issues to overcome if that's what your end goal is.

 

[SharkyUK]

I originally spec'd PEC on my build but got a bit nervous after a couple of horror stories and failures that I knew about. In the end I went with Arrows for peace of mind (well, as much as can be expected with a modified engine where there's always a risk). Admittedly I'm not running a pure race / rally car but would probably opt to spend that bit extra.

 

[Andyrg@ ClioTurbo]

Never had one issue with pec rods or pistons for that matter.

I always measure the rod and check clearances and every things been absolutely fine. I have around 14 high powered clios and meganes out there that are absolutely fine with no issues at all.

cosworth is also another brand we use and thats also faultless.

 

[rich83]

8k on the hardcut so it'll probably go to about 8200 by the time it's had time to think what's going on. Run the risk of the finger followers jumping off, but I'm not to worried by it tbh. My standard 172 f4r gets sent to 8k without any dramas! Lol! It's sustained and continuous high rpm that will kill the standard rods, but tbh you've got other issues to overcome if that's what your end goal is.

If I run uprated valve springs, valves, pistons, rod bolts and rods which are now looking like Arrow. I would have thought/hoped that lot would be good for a solid 8.5k really? Then given I'll be running hydraulic lifters and therefore capping the engine at say 7.5 - 7.8k it'll be as close to bullet proof as I can get?
My old TU on ITB's was still on hydraulic lifters so that got a 7.8k limiter, I was advised that was the safe limit on those.

I originally spec'd PEC on my build but got a bit nervous after a couple of horror stories and failures that I knew about. In the end I went with Arrows for peace of mind (well, as much as can be expected with a modified engine where there's always a risk). Admittedly I'm not running a pure race / rally car but would probably opt to spend that bit extra.

yup that's exactly my situation now! Given Autosport is next week, going to see if I can score some Arrow rods for a better price

 

[NorthloopCup]

If I run uprated valve springs, valves, pistons, rod bolts and rods which are now looking like Arrow. I would have thought/hoped that lot would be good for a solid 8.5k really? Then given I'll be running hydraulic lifters and therefore capping the engine at say 7.5 - 7.8k it'll be as close to bullet proof as I can get?
My old TU on ITB's was still on hydraulic lifters so that got a 7.8k limiter, I was advised that was the safe limit on those.


yup that's exactly my situation now! Given Autosport is next week, going to see if I can score some Arrow rods for a better price :smile:

To run at 8.5k safely and reliably you need to run the catcams solid lifter kit mate. The standard top end won't stand it and you'll be throwing the finger rockers regularly and possibly even snapping them. If your serious @BIGASH has one of the kits for sale. They ain't cheap though!!

If your serious about arrows let me know - I can get them at good prices. Better than anyone else can potentially.

 

[rich83]

Re-reading I see why you may think I want 8.5k, sorry what I mean is my limit will be at 7.5k-7.8k - because I'll be running hydraulic's. However, if the bottom end (rods, bolts, pistons) and also top end bits such as springs and valves are all uprated etc to be able to run 8/8.5k etc, it should make for as solid an engine as possible without converting to solids.

Yeah very serious about running the Arrows, as I say Ill give them a call and see if they can be tapped up at Autosport, but if you can get good prices please pm bud

 

[tuningmeisterjj]

I used to work with Dave and the guys at PEC and never had any issues while I worked there with the rods and if there were any problems I would be sure Dave and the guys would sort it straight away!

 

[NorthloopCup]

Re-reading I see why you may think I want 8.5k, sorry what I mean is my limit will be at 7.5k-7.8k - because I'll be running hydraulic's. However, if the bottom end (rods, bolts, pistons) and also top end bits such as springs and valves are all uprated etc to be able to run 8/8.5k etc, it should make for as solid an engine as possible without converting to solids.

Yeah very serious about running the Arrows, as I say Ill give them a call and see if they can be tapped up at Autosport, but if you can get good prices please pm bud :smiley:

Ah right I see what your saying now! If you were building it to be reliable revving to 8k+ you'll definitely need solid lifters as a minimum mate and a set of 16 of these would resolve any issues you may come up against

The setup your going to run will be safe to 8k and occasional 8k+ (It's the same as mine pretty much), but it wouldn't stand repeated hammer that 8k+ will give it. The crank will also cry no more so steel is the only way.

I'll get you a price on the rods mate.

 

[rich83]

Nice, yeah they would be good but I would imagine the machining and labour to fit them would be as much again as the items themselves! Could spend a fair bit on that xrallyparts site, titanium valves, is that 150 euros each, no way it could be for the set so must be!

 

[NorthloopCup]

Nice, yeah they would be good but I would imagine the machining and labour to fit them would be as much again as the items themselves! Could spend a fair bit on that xrallyparts site, titanium valves, is that 150 euros each, no way it could be for the set so must be!

No machining required for them mate. It's the catcams kit that needs the machining. Yeah they're €150 each.........Lol

 

[rich83]

Ah right, in which case def the best kit to buy but still talking £1000 installed. All the mech cams are properly wild too, so probably want vvt delete and ITB's to make it idle...! Maybe next year!!

 

[NorthloopCup]

Ah right, in which case def the best kit to buy but still talking £1000 installed. All the mech cams are properly wild too, so probably want vvt delete and ITB's to make it idle...! Maybe next year!!

That's a copy of the R3 maxi evo (or so I'm told) so you'd get away with maxi Evo cams and the standard inlet..........

 

[rich83]

True, but I still don't expect the idle is up to much, I think the Maxi Evo cams are 312deg judging from the text on the xrallyparts site? Guess you could always get blanks made up for solids using a milder hyd cam specification, but doesn't seem worth it.
No if you are able to get me a good price mate on the Arrows then I think I'm finalised on the spec now
Cheers

 

[NorthloopCup]

True, but I still don't expect the idle is up to much, I think the Maxi Evo cams are 312deg judging from the text on the xrallyparts site? Guess you could always get blanks made up for solids using a milder hyd cam specification, but doesn't seem worth it.
No if you are able to get me a good price mate on the Arrows then I think I'm finalised on the spec now :smile:
Cheers

I'd expect the idle speed to be somewhere in the region of 1200rpm for maxi and maxi evo cams tbh. It's usually the only way you'll get an engine with knobbly cams to tickover.
I'll have a price on the rods sometime this coming week mate.