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Clio 172 Cup
I'm trying to narrow down possible suspects in this are for curing a squeaky Aux belt.
I'm guessing to swap the alternator pulley would mean swapping the entire alternator?
Is the water pump on these a ballache to swap?
I'm guessing PAS pulley will be the same as the alternator?
Leaving new belt as the final replaceable part.
Any other culprits you can think of?
I'm guessing to swap the alternator pulley would mean swapping the entire alternator?
Is the water pump on these a ballache to swap?
I'm guessing PAS pulley will be the same as the alternator?
Leaving new belt as the final replaceable part.
Any other culprits you can think of?
Clio 172 Cup
Squeaks when cold and changes pitch with the revs. Steering doesn't affect it.
Fades out after 10-15 mins once warmed up. Sometimes you can hear it faintly when warm.
Sounds like it's from the alternator or just behind it but I'll need to jack up the front end for a better listen.
The sound is hard to describe as it's a mix of a squeak and when you put a playing card in a bike wheel which made me think bearing more than belt.
But I thought a bearing would still be heard once hot.
Fades out after 10-15 mins once warmed up. Sometimes you can hear it faintly when warm.
Sounds like it's from the alternator or just behind it but I'll need to jack up the front end for a better listen.
The sound is hard to describe as it's a mix of a squeak and when you put a playing card in a bike wheel which made me think bearing more than belt.
But I thought a bearing would still be heard once hot.
ITB'd MK1
change the belt and tension it correctly. easiest job you can imagine
Clio 172 Cup
Aaaargh, bought a new belt and took it home to find that they had given me a belt for air-con even after asking them to check.
Swapped the belt out and now have a Goodyear 7PK1127G Gatorback belt which seems like a fairly hefty piece of kit compared to the original Renault part.
Holding the old and new belts next to each other there was about 5mm difference and thought that the old belt may have slackened over time and that loosening the tensioner would still allow it to slip on.
HOW WRONG COULD I BE!!
I've spent nearly 2 hours trying to jimmy the bugger over the pulleys with no joy. It was always just that bit too short. So I thought warming it up ay help. Gave it about a minute to a minute and a half in the oven on absolute minimum without even letting the oven heat up first. The belt came out nice and warm but now seems even harder to put on!!
Has anyone else ever had this problem? I've got to the point where I'm considering either unbolting the alternator or taking another treck back to the shops. As I don't like being beaten I'll probably end up trying the first option!!:S
Swapped the belt out and now have a Goodyear 7PK1127G Gatorback belt which seems like a fairly hefty piece of kit compared to the original Renault part.
Holding the old and new belts next to each other there was about 5mm difference and thought that the old belt may have slackened over time and that loosening the tensioner would still allow it to slip on.
HOW WRONG COULD I BE!!
I've spent nearly 2 hours trying to jimmy the bugger over the pulleys with no joy. It was always just that bit too short. So I thought warming it up ay help. Gave it about a minute to a minute and a half in the oven on absolute minimum without even letting the oven heat up first. The belt came out nice and warm but now seems even harder to put on!!
Has anyone else ever had this problem? I've got to the point where I'm considering either unbolting the alternator or taking another treck back to the shops. As I don't like being beaten I'll probably end up trying the first option!!:S
Clio 172 Cup
Yep, the belt that came off has 7k1127 written on it followed by 8200072113 and it's a genuine Renault part.
The new belt has 7PK1127G.
I guessed the G was for Gatorback but thought that if the numbers matched it should be good.
There's only about 5mm difference between them but even with the tensioner fully undone it's still being a TW@T!!
I'll give them a bell and ask them if they have the other belt in stock.
Cheers Fred.
The new belt has 7PK1127G.
I guessed the G was for Gatorback but thought that if the numbers matched it should be good.
There's only about 5mm difference between them but even with the tensioner fully undone it's still being a TW@T!!
I'll give them a bell and ask them if they have the other belt in stock.
Cheers Fred.
Clio 172 Cup
Cheers bud.
As you look down a the alternator there is a screw thread and a 10mm nut sticking through it towards the front of the car.
Basically:
1) loosen 10mm nut on tensioner.
2) loosen 13mm lock nut on the left.
3) loosen 16mm nut/bolt on the hinge at the opposite side and push the alternator down if you need to to loosen the belt.
4) Swap the belts.
5) take up the tension with the 10mm nut, just don't go mad or you'll snap it!!
6) tighten the 13 mm lock nut on the left then the 16mm nut/bolt on the hinge to secure it.
7) slacken the 10mm nut to take some pressure off the screw thread and do it up finger tight.
As you look down a the alternator there is a screw thread and a 10mm nut sticking through it towards the front of the car.
Basically:
1) loosen 10mm nut on tensioner.
2) loosen 13mm lock nut on the left.
3) loosen 16mm nut/bolt on the hinge at the opposite side and push the alternator down if you need to to loosen the belt.
4) Swap the belts.
5) take up the tension with the 10mm nut, just don't go mad or you'll snap it!!
6) tighten the 13 mm lock nut on the left then the 16mm nut/bolt on the hinge to secure it.
7) slacken the 10mm nut to take some pressure off the screw thread and do it up finger tight.
While you're here Fred, 172 Cup, squeaks intermittently on start from aux belt.
Can sometimes be worse when on full lock / loaded up on some lock.
When it's really cold (freezing temps) and the heaters on full it'll be worse.
Changed the belt, correct tension, still does it.
Alternator starting to go?
Can sometimes be worse when on full lock / loaded up on some lock.
When it's really cold (freezing temps) and the heaters on full it'll be worse.
Changed the belt, correct tension, still does it.
Alternator starting to go?
172DD Cup
wtf @ someone trimming down a 7pk belt, that was an accident waiting to happen, glad you got it sorted. i came from a vauxhall too. timing belt was bad on that, had to remove a lower engine mount to route it properly. cambelt on the other hand was a piece of cake- a £5 draper cam locking tool was all you needed.
172DD Cup
u sure it's engine out job?
http://www.vvon.co.uk/downloads/Vec...tra_b_how_to/How_to_replace_x25xe_cambelt.pdf
http://www.vvon.co.uk/downloads/Vec...tra_b_how_to/How_to_replace_x25xe_cambelt.pdf
Clio 172 Cup
I know on some of the Vaux engines you could chock the engine and remove the engine mounts to get in but it's pretty tight in there on the Vec.
To be honest it was some time last year that I looked into it but dismissed it as being a bigger ballache than I wanted to get involved in at that point. May have even been thinking about when I had to get the gear box swapped out as you had to drop one side of the engine and subframe for it. That went straight to someone else to do as it was about November and it was freezing outside!!
To be honest it was some time last year that I looked into it but dismissed it as being a bigger ballache than I wanted to get involved in at that point. May have even been thinking about when I had to get the gear box swapped out as you had to drop one side of the engine and subframe for it. That went straight to someone else to do as it was about November and it was freezing outside!!
Fred, just read this thread and I think I need exactly the same advice / help although I'm no mechanic.
Is this easy enough to do, and is this part no. correct?? Thanks,
Tom.
