Don't forget a new pc with the d800 raw files! I too am considering a full frame upgrade and the d600 and a nice suite of fx lenses would suit me very well and won't break the bank but the lack of articulated screen always drives me back to Sony!
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Photography Chat and Questions Thread
- Thread starter Luke.
- Start date
Don't forget a new pc with the d800 raw files! I too am considering a full frame upgrade and the d600 and a nice suite of fx lenses would suit me very well and won't break the bank but the lack of articulated screen always drives me back to Sony!
Cayman S Edition 1
Yeah here's mine www.facebook.com/jaysboudoirphotography
I had a look at the D800 and just didn't like the grip, so I went for a 5D mk III. Like they say, you're either Canon or Nikon!!
Would also just say after speaking with other photographers, the D800 shows so much detail, it can actually be a pain in photoshop becuase of any flaws it may show up. Still a great bit of kit tho.
R26
We use a D800 at work. My god the files a massive!! I process the photos on a HP workstation PC, which really struggles after a while. It's only got 2GB RAM too!!
Yes like an old porsche the price of a D800 is deceptively cheap. Once you factor in the latest computer and the best fx lenses (anything else won't do the sensor the justice it deserves!) your looking at a hefty price tag. that said if you have the readies I do acknowledge its the best out there by some margin!
Matt_90
ClioSport Club Member
Sprint/climb 106 gti
I am using a MBP at the minute with a 250gb solid state and 8gb of ram so it handles things nicely, storage isn't an issue as i have. 2tb NAS box to backup to currently. I am going to hire/borrow one and see how I get on with I will post up my results when I have a go!
Neither ram or an ssd will help*. I have 8 gigs of ram and an ssd using a laptop with an i3 processor and a Nvidia M330 graphics card with 1gb of ram. It struggles with 12 bit 24 meg raw files so 14 bit 36 meg raw files would be too much, at least for me. I find its the processor that does all the donkey work with pp but yeah give it a go and let us know how you get on mate.
*much
edit: Actually Matt log onto Dpreview and download one of their D800 raw files, that should give you an idea!
*much
edit: Actually Matt log onto Dpreview and download one of their D800 raw files, that should give you an idea!
R26
Sensor swabs, if a rocket blower doesn't shift it.
If the dust is on your sensor, you will see it through the viewfinder, but it wont appear on your photos as the mirror flicks up when the photo is taken.
If the dust is on your sensor, you will see it through the viewfinder, but it wont appear on your photos as the mirror flicks up when the photo is taken.
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
You have that the wrong way round mate
If it's just on the sensor, you won't see it through the viewfinder. But if it's on the mirror you will see it, but then the mirror retracts so it won't show on the pic
R26
ah yeh, must not have been concentrating when I wrote that
And Fuji, the b******s, have just released the X100S!! Not long after I got the X100.
And Fuji, the b******s, have just released the X100S!! Not long after I got the X100.
RIP Dan
Going to try and take a shot in the next few evenings of a building with lit windows.
It's a lovely old building, a school and almost church like.
Any tips on settings etc? I know to use a tripod, I want a nice crisp clear shot like I see on here but just can't get it for some reason.
Cheers
It's a lovely old building, a school and almost church like.
Any tips on settings etc? I know to use a tripod, I want a nice crisp clear shot like I see on here but just can't get it for some reason.
Cheers
R26
You might want to take two separate exposures, one for the building itself, and one for the lit windows....as you may find that taking just one photo will overexpose the windows.
I'd be at around f/8-f/11, in A priority....possibly exposure bracketing if the windows are overexposing.
I'd be at around f/8-f/11, in A priority....possibly exposure bracketing if the windows are overexposing.
Focus ST-3
psorry for being a newb, but what is exposure bracketing?
R26
I would let the camera autoexposure (in A mode) for the building. As it will be dark (I'm guessing), it will be a relatively longer exposure. This will cause the lit windows to overexposure, possibly a lot. So take another exposure just for the windows, you'll probably have to do this manually, by using exposure compensation (or use manual mode).
So you should end up with two photos. The main photo, of the building.....and another darker exposure just for the windows. You can then blend the two later on.
Forget exposure bracketing, I would just use exposure compensation (but you can do the same thing with bracketing).
GBH14 - Exposure bracketing is a way of taking a series of photos of different exposures, normally either side of the normal exposure (so one darker and one brighter). So for example, you could exposure bracket for 1 stop either side. So the camera would take three photos, one at normal exposure, one 1 stop under and one 1 stop over.
It's quite common to use this when doing HDR photos, as you capture photos preserving highlight details and shadow details. Have a google, as it's easier to see with images.
Brazo - it's the new X100 camera. An upgraded 'S' model. More MP, better AF, improved this...more of that....the usual!
So you should end up with two photos. The main photo, of the building.....and another darker exposure just for the windows. You can then blend the two later on.
Forget exposure bracketing, I would just use exposure compensation (but you can do the same thing with bracketing).
GBH14 - Exposure bracketing is a way of taking a series of photos of different exposures, normally either side of the normal exposure (so one darker and one brighter). So for example, you could exposure bracket for 1 stop either side. So the camera would take three photos, one at normal exposure, one 1 stop under and one 1 stop over.
It's quite common to use this when doing HDR photos, as you capture photos preserving highlight details and shadow details. Have a google, as it's easier to see with images.
Brazo - it's the new X100 camera. An upgraded 'S' model. More MP, better AF, improved this...more of that....the usual!
Fiesta ST-3
You set the camera in bracketing mode. You set the exposure then the camera will take your picture, then one over exposed and one under exposed.
I would expose for the sky as that won't give you the typical 'black' sky you so often see in night shots. The buildings may overexpose but certaintly won't blow and will be more than saveable in PP (shoot raw), and then do as Dan suggests for the windows which will blow.
Hell try it all and tell us what worked for you!
Dan yeah I took a sneaky peak on fuji rumours. Not sure I would upgrade if I had an x100 as it will never be a sports camera so the faster af doesn't interest me, more mp might
Hell try it all and tell us what worked for you!
Dan yeah I took a sneaky peak on fuji rumours. Not sure I would upgrade if I had an x100 as it will never be a sports camera so the faster af doesn't interest me, more mp might
Focus ST-3
I don't think my camera has a bracketing mode. It's a d3100, anyone know?
Its the highest scoring full frame camera on www.dpreview.com and a snip at just over a grand from panamoz.
Matt_90
ClioSport Club Member
Sprint/climb 106 gti
Very true Jay, I have never been fan of canon. But they all do the same job at the end of day lol!
My facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/MatthewLawrencePhotos
I only set mine up a few days ago I need to add some more content.
Cheers Brazo I will give that a ago, I am running an i5 in mine so I shall see what happens lol.
I am going to go out tonight with my camera for the first time in a long time to try some night shots. I want to get some good ones of the Spinnaker Tower in Portsmouth.
As said in another thread, I struggle to get really crisp night shots. I want something like this:
Any tips on what settings would be good for something like that?
I'm a bit clueless when it comes to night photography, just set a long shutter speed and hope for the best!
As said in another thread, I struggle to get really crisp night shots. I want something like this:
Any tips on what settings would be good for something like that?
I'm a bit clueless when it comes to night photography, just set a long shutter speed and hope for the best!
Ay Ay Ron
ClioSport Club Member
I'm not the best on here for giving advice but I would say, manual focus (on a tripod), remote shutter, mirror lockup. F8-11 maybe on aperture priority and see how you get on.
Someone more experienced might come in and tell you something else. Listen to them if they do.
Someone more experienced might come in and tell you something else. Listen to them if they do.
R26
Yes, but if it's a complex nightscape, you may need to manually adjust the exposure.
Italian 3.2 V6
I find the same issue with my landscape style shot. Never ever crisp enough I don't do many for this reason as it annoys me.
Tripod, set aperture to 22, shutter speed to suit, iso 100, 2sec timer.. Shooting with a 1000d with either 50mm 1.8 or kit lens (18-55mm)
Hartside by PSJHodgson, on Flickr
Long exposure by PSJHodgson, on Flickr
I don't do many for this reason as it annoys me.Tripod, set aperture to 22, shutter speed to suit, iso 100, 2sec timer.. Shooting with a 1000d with either 50mm 1.8 or kit lens (18-55mm)
Hartside by PSJHodgson, on Flickr
Long exposure by PSJHodgson, on Flickr
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
I find the same issue with my landscape style shot. Never ever crisp enough
Tripod, set aperture to 22, shutter speed to suit, iso 100, 2sec timer.. Shooting with a 1000d with either 50mm 1.8 or kit lens (18-55mm)
The Canon kit lens aren't very sharp, that might be the problem. Your 50mm 1.8 should be ok though
Italian 3.2 V6
This was shot with the 50mm and I'm still not 100% happy with it.
Hartside by PSJHodgson, on Flickr
I can't help but think it's down to my basic 1000d too though? Ideally I want to upgrade to the 50d and a better lens to replace my kit lens but I'm looking at like £800, to be worth while?
Is there anything else I can do better technique wise?
Cheers.
Hartside by PSJHodgson, on Flickr
I can't help but think it's down to my basic 1000d too though? Ideally I want to upgrade to the 50d and a better lens to replace my kit lens but I'm looking at like £800, to be worth while?
Is there anything else I can do better technique wise?
Cheers.
Fiesta ST-3
I find the same issue with my landscape style shot. Never ever crisp enough
Tripod, set aperture to 22, shutter speed to suit, iso 100, 2sec timer.. Shooting with a 1000d with either 50mm 1.8 or kit lens (18-55mm)
Why such high aperture?
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
I like that one Piers. Maybe try focusing in a different place?
Fiesta ST-3
Brazo is your man. He showed me the light. Although he is hard to pleaseThanks James, Scott I was under the impression the higher the better for landscape type shots? I may have read wrong mind
Ok cheers I'll give that ago next time
Just to clear something up, when would F22 be used?
Night time I guess, if you're really trying to get some tight light bursts and there's lots of light pollution.
Matt_90
ClioSport Club Member
Sprint/climb 106 gti
You mean using them off camera yea ?
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