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PMS Rattle / Vibration Damper
- Thread starter panderoo
- Start date
I'll go first. 
I don't think there's a definitive answer, some things have worked for some people, and others for others, although I've come to realise that's there's a 'rattle' and a 'RATTLE'
I tried: ('RATTLE!! )
Removing it and replacing it in a different position (around 30 times!); 'tuning' the vibrations - helped, by about 10%
PMS's clamp weight, in every position possible; no difference. Took it off.
Calling PMS and they suggested that the rubber gaiter that covered the selector rod needed packing with grease. Mine had a hole right through it. New gaiter and lots of grease later - a further 10% reduction.
Gearbox rebuild. I needed synchro's doing anyway and thought I'd do the whole box at the time. No difference. FFS!!!
Removed the bent selector rod and filled it with lead shot. 50% reduction. It's now getting liveable with.
Removed the front box from my Janspeed (POS) st/st system because the welds were rusting and blowing - Sorted. Can't hear it anymore but am going deaf as a result.
If you've got a 'RATTLE' , go straight to lead shot, it's what worked best for me.
Good luck.
I don't think there's a definitive answer, some things have worked for some people, and others for others, although I've come to realise that's there's a 'rattle' and a 'RATTLE'
I tried: ('RATTLE!! )
Removing it and replacing it in a different position (around 30 times!); 'tuning' the vibrations - helped, by about 10%
PMS's clamp weight, in every position possible; no difference. Took it off.
Calling PMS and they suggested that the rubber gaiter that covered the selector rod needed packing with grease. Mine had a hole right through it. New gaiter and lots of grease later - a further 10% reduction.
Gearbox rebuild. I needed synchro's doing anyway and thought I'd do the whole box at the time. No difference. FFS!!!
Removed the bent selector rod and filled it with lead shot. 50% reduction. It's now getting liveable with.
Removed the front box from my Janspeed (POS) st/st system because the welds were rusting and blowing - Sorted. Can't hear it anymore but am going deaf as a result.
If you've got a 'RATTLE' , go straight to lead shot, it's what worked best for me.
Good luck.
@perazzi Whats the method for this lead shot and do you have a link to where to buy some ?
I'm guessing its just a case of removing he link rod and pouring the lead shot down the tube till it's full ?
I've bought some heavy grease to pack out the gaiter so may as well give the shot a go while i have it in pieces again.
I'm guessing its just a case of removing he link rod and pouring the lead shot down the tube till it's full ?
I've bought some heavy grease to pack out the gaiter so may as well give the shot a go while i have it in pieces again.
@panderoo
Yes, just remove the full bent selector rod from under the gearstick and fill up with shot.
If you want to cover the postage, I have plenty left from the bag of mixed shot that I bought from a local gun shop. I was lucky, this was literally a bag they'd had knocking around for years - It's not something they regularly sell - something to do with carriers not wanting to carry it due to the possibility of a pack bursting and millions of miniature lead balls rolling all over the place. (So they said.)
Your pic shows the gaiter that I was talking about, that I packed with grease.
Yes, just remove the full bent selector rod from under the gearstick and fill up with shot.
If you want to cover the postage, I have plenty left from the bag of mixed shot that I bought from a local gun shop. I was lucky, this was literally a bag they'd had knocking around for years - It's not something they regularly sell - something to do with carriers not wanting to carry it due to the possibility of a pack bursting and millions of miniature lead balls rolling all over the place. (So they said.)
Your pic shows the gaiter that I was talking about, that I packed with grease.
@perazzi Thanks for he offer, but typically I've just ordered a bag of mixed shot online and its been dispatched apparently
I was thinking of seeing if i can stretch the additional boot (pic below) from the OEM shifter over the PMS bearing joint as well and filling that with grease while I'm at it.
I'll give it a try, i cant imagine it will hurt anything.
I was thinking of seeing if i can stretch the additional boot (pic below) from the OEM shifter over the PMS bearing joint as well and filling that with grease while I'm at it.
I'll give it a try, i cant imagine it will hurt anything.
Chambers_RS
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172 Cup&Leon K1
It’s a “race car” part.
Put up with the rattle.
Put up with the rattle.
Unfair.
I've heard the normal rattle, often, and in different cars. Perfectly acceptable - as you say, it's a 'race car' part.
I've also heard the RATTLE, and not just in mine (there are some vids somewhere here); angry, wakes up at 2.5k revs and overrides every and all other noises/vibrations put together.
I love the shift, but I think there are some cars that, for whatever reason, suffer much more than others.
Chambers_RS
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172 Cup&Leon K1
I agree. Some rattle more than others.
I’ve had mine on and off for lots of reason none shifter related and mine is always worse when I’ve just gunned it up and not used a spanner.
Best way to cure it is PMS engine mounts, exhaust and cams/grpN timing then you can hardly hear it
For anyone that finds this useful - My RATTLE seems to be solved.
Filled front selector Gaiter with Heavy Grease
Fitted OEM pivot boot to PMS pivot and filled with grease
Filled Rod with 0.3-1.6mm Lead shot (Approx 1-1.5kg)
Method below:
Remove selector / Boot and clean
Get boots ready and nip up tight the bolt that holds the pivot together, mine was slightly loose which could have caused some previous rattle maybe..?!?!
Fill Selector boot with Heavy Grease
Stretch over the OEM pivot boot... it takes a bit of doing, but it will go over the PMS pivot and fill it with grease.
I fitted a zip tie to try and keep some grease in.
Put Selector boot back on, mop up grease afterwards.. plenty will splurge out.
Put selector arm / knuckle back in place and re-fit circlip. Clean up more grease that has splurged out.
Get bag of lead shot and fill rod until it overflows from cut out that allows it to be clamped... then pour a little more out so there is room to re-fit selector arm.
I them pushed a small piece of bubble wrap in rod so if it didn't work to stop the rattle, i could poke it back out. And also it would hold the shot in place while re-fitting the rod.
Slide rod back into position and clean up.
I cant say this will solve all the rattle's for EVERYONE, but it has totally cured mine on going up through the rev range and seemingly at any speed which is where it annoyed me.
It DOES however make a slight rattle going back down some gears, but that could be heat shield related.. I'll check that another day.
I don't know if it will last forever as I've only done it today and drove home from the workshop, but i will add to this thread if it returns.
All in all it cost about £25 for the shot and grease which was cheaper than the vibration damper from PMS and seems to now be silent.
Filled front selector Gaiter with Heavy Grease
Fitted OEM pivot boot to PMS pivot and filled with grease
Filled Rod with 0.3-1.6mm Lead shot (Approx 1-1.5kg)
Method below:
Remove selector / Boot and clean
Get boots ready and nip up tight the bolt that holds the pivot together, mine was slightly loose which could have caused some previous rattle maybe..?!?!
Fill Selector boot with Heavy Grease
Stretch over the OEM pivot boot... it takes a bit of doing, but it will go over the PMS pivot and fill it with grease.
I fitted a zip tie to try and keep some grease in.
Put Selector boot back on, mop up grease afterwards.. plenty will splurge out.
Put selector arm / knuckle back in place and re-fit circlip. Clean up more grease that has splurged out.
Get bag of lead shot and fill rod until it overflows from cut out that allows it to be clamped... then pour a little more out so there is room to re-fit selector arm.
I them pushed a small piece of bubble wrap in rod so if it didn't work to stop the rattle, i could poke it back out. And also it would hold the shot in place while re-fitting the rod.
Slide rod back into position and clean up.
I cant say this will solve all the rattle's for EVERYONE, but it has totally cured mine on going up through the rev range and seemingly at any speed which is where it annoyed me.
It DOES however make a slight rattle going back down some gears, but that could be heat shield related.. I'll check that another day.
I don't know if it will last forever as I've only done it today and drove home from the workshop, but i will add to this thread if it returns.
All in all it cost about £25 for the shot and grease which was cheaper than the vibration damper from PMS and seems to now be silent.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
I had the dampener on mine, which only made a slight difference, and made the shifter feel heavy, preferred the gearchange without. The vibration on mine was savage initially, rattling all the way through the rev range in 2nd from 3k rpm. After a couple of thousand miles, it seemed to have broken in and the rattle disappeared itself.
The oem boot over the pivot point is a great idea, to keep the shite out when used on the road.
I also noticed the bearing on the shifter tower went tight on mine for reasons unknown, which could have reduced the rattle, had to grease it up to free it off. Also had paint rub off the lip to stop the shifter going in reverse, which caused the shifter to go tight again, so worth keeping an eye on that.
The oem boot over the pivot point is a great idea, to keep the shite out when used on the road.
I also noticed the bearing on the shifter tower went tight on mine for reasons unknown, which could have reduced the rattle, had to grease it up to free it off. Also had paint rub off the lip to stop the shifter going in reverse, which caused the shifter to go tight again, so worth keeping an eye on that.
Thanks. 👍
You beauty. Thanks muchly.
I shall report back. 👍👍
frayz
ClioSport Club Member
Just to update this thread as I was to try some of these methods out. I
I got my shifter used as it was one of the first gen items. It had a PTFE lined shifter bearing and it was mega stiff. It wouldn’t self centre and wasn’t nice to use as it didn’t offer confidence across the gate when driven at speed. However it was stiff but almost zero rattle.
The updates to the shifter at a steel bearing which is totally free and the carbon reverse tube.
I ordered both of these to bring mine to the latest spec. The new bearing is totally free and makes the shift action very easy but still precise. It now self centres as per OEM.
However, now I have the dreaded rattle in every gear at varying frequencies. 🤦🏽♂️
I got my shifter used as it was one of the first gen items. It had a PTFE lined shifter bearing and it was mega stiff. It wouldn’t self centre and wasn’t nice to use as it didn’t offer confidence across the gate when driven at speed. However it was stiff but almost zero rattle.
The updates to the shifter at a steel bearing which is totally free and the carbon reverse tube.
I ordered both of these to bring mine to the latest spec. The new bearing is totally free and makes the shift action very easy but still precise. It now self centres as per OEM.
However, now I have the dreaded rattle in every gear at varying frequencies. 🤦🏽♂️
frayz
ClioSport Club Member
Did anyone buy a heap of leasdshot they wish to sell some? I need to try and sort something on mine or the PMS weight
Yep, I've got a bag extra from my 'conversion'.
Cover the postage and I'll send some/enough to you tomorrow.
(PM me your address)
Cover the postage and I'll send some/enough to you tomorrow.
If there is enough going spare I would love to buy some of the shot too please?
I guess you don't need that much as the linkage pipe is pretty narrow?
If there's not enough spare then if you could tell me roughly how much I'll need, I can buy it online... Seems to come in KG bags and be around 1-1.5mm each ball.
Hi Martin, the short answer is yes (although I'm now running low!).
I'm at work currently, but I'll drop you a PM this evening once home.
Cheers.
Excellent thanks very much.
Am very happy to source some online if needed.
Do you have a rough idea of how much is needed per car?
Just in case anyone finds this thread, the solution for me to make it 100% silent was on the link below:
https://cliosport.net/threads/182-w...ect-spec-road-car.827205/page-3#post-11824948
https://cliosport.net/threads/182-w...ect-spec-road-car.827205/page-3#post-11824948
VenomUK
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
