182... what upgrades would you fit to your perfect spec road car?

[frayz]

I've got vibra mounts and a solid dogbone

If you like dashboard rattle and hate your teeth then buy them!

Nah you're alright.

 

[tomb]

Kinda building my ideal one at the moment, whilst still using it as a daily. I commute 60 miles a day on A+B roads so don't want something too serious, but still Ok for track-days and if I want a bit of fun on a sunny evening or something. I've had some pretty powerful cars in the past but seem to keep coming back to small N/A powered cars for proper driving involvement.

Base- 182FF, arctic blue, 105k, retaining climate control

Modifications-

Grams springs,
New cup dampers all round,
Powerflex engine mount bush,
Hybrid gearbox mount (standard small bush, polybushed large bush),
BMC enclosed air filter for a bit more induction noise when you want it,
Blueflame cat-back,
Powerflex camber bolts,
New topmounts/lower arms/tie rods,
EPAS conversion,
Polybushed front ARB,
15x7 TD 1.2 with NS2R,
20mm front spacers,
Wheel stud conversion,
PMS 10mm rear axle spacers,
Brembo MAX HC front discs,
Mintex front pads,
Goodridge braided brake lines,
Volantech button panel, retaining cruise control,
OMP WRC leather steering wheel 350mm dia,
Lowered standard seats,
Pioneer radio,
Re-trimmed headlining to make interior a bit more moody.

I'd like to get a pair of trendlines and maybe some 5 or 10mm rear spacers to finish it off for now.

Picture was before grams springs/spacers etc

 

[green]

Kinda building my ideal one at the moment, whilst still using it as a daily. I commute 60 miles a day on A+B roads so don't want something too serious, but still Ok for track-days and if I want a bit of fun on a sunny evening or something. I've had some pretty powerful cars in the past but seem to keep coming back to small N/A powered cars for proper driving involvement.

Base- 182FF, arctic blue, 105k, retaining climate control

Modifications-

Grams springs,
New cup dampers all round,
Powerflex engine mount bush,
Hybrid gearbox mount (standard small bush, polybushed large bush),
BMC enclosed air filter for a bit more induction noise when you want it,
Blueflame cat-back,
Powerflex camber bolts,
New topmounts/lower arms/tie rods,
EPAS conversion,
Polybushed front ARB,
15x7 TD 1.2 with NS2R,
20mm front spacers,
Wheel stud conversion,
PMS 10mm rear axle spacers,
Brembo MAX HC front discs,
Mintex front pads,
Goodridge braided brake lines,
Volantech button panel, retaining cruise control,
OMP WRC leather steering wheel 350mm dia,
Lowered standard seats,
Pioneer radio,
Re-trimmed headlining to make interior a bit more moody.

I'd like to get a pair of trendlines and maybe some 5 or 10mm rear spacers to finish it off for now.

View attachment 1432798

Picture was before grams springs/spacers etc

Just needs a diff now!!.. nice list you have there.

 

[tomb]

Yea a diff would be nice, not sure I could justify the price though for what I use the car for. If I did more track-days in it I would definitely consider one, was the best modification I did to my old Mazda, but they are much more expensive for Clio's.

 

[frayz]

So I’ve buckled and have started buying bits to modify the Clio. Yep I said I was going to keep it 100% stock, but you know how these things go, the itch to hone my perfect spec road car is getting too much.

So once I get time to get the parts are fitted I’ll have the following.

BTM/Yozzasport catback system
ITG Maxogen

Full OEM Bush/ball joint replacement.
New Cup lower arms
New inner/outer track rod ends.
New OEM engine/gearbox mounts
New OEM topmounts.
New Cup dampers
Eibach Sportlines
Whiteline rear beam bushes
Powerflex steering rack bushes.
PhillipM dogbone
PMS 19mm rear ARB

Brembo HC
PFC 097s
Goodridge hoses
RBF660

PMS shifter
Cup Turinis
Rebuilt box with Quaife ATB diff

Momo Prototipo steering wheel
Recaro Pole Position seats on Jon Fox Xlow frames.

 

[Jekyll]

Gonna be awesome!

 

[frayz]

Gonna be awesome!

Well it’s just a list of bits at the mo dude. Some have arrived, some still on order lol.
I think the hardest part of doing it is knowing when to stop and not going too far. 😅🤦🏽‍♂️

 

[-Simon]

For me the biggest “must change” bits are:

• New steering wheel
• 15” wheels as it drives so much better (IMHO)
• Coilovers - my BC’s on soft are a lot more composed and better riding than my cup dampers with cooksports
• Buckets seats. Recaro PP or Corbeau CS as they are still comfy over long distance but transform the driving experience
• Engine i would leave alone bar dog bone mount and maybe induction (Ktec sounded awesome when i had it but would grate daily i expect)
• An exhaust that was a little free flowing for a bit of extra parp but with silencers so no motorway drone
• Scenic modded shifter is a cheaper version of Pure item but no vibrations and a more direct throw

Other than that just keep it looking relatively standard and have fun.

 

[Dave182T]

Im sure powerfelx have not long started doing a top mount for the 1*2s. Would be a good comprise i reckon, surely stiffer than oem but none of the draw backs of a solid top mount.

 

[Bankrupt_drunk]

I think the only upgrade I'd go for over OEM (cup spec) would be a rear ARB and braided brake hoses. Then some good pads and discs, some decent tyres, a couple of spare gearboxes and a ready supply of clean injectors.
Mind you, those recaros do look fantastic.
Ps. I'm another former Scoobynetter!

 

[frayz]

Keeping on with this thread on my daily driver.

• PMS rear ARB -
Nice upgrade, no nasty noises or any negative effects. Makes the car far more adjustable on throttle mid corner and adds some much needed extra bite on the front axle. It’s pretty slippery out at the mo so looking forward to leaning on it more in the dry. Overall an excellent upgrade for a daily.

• PMS shifter -
Better stick height and overall positon.
More precise feeling to the H pattern action.
Arguably better looking.

However,
Sounds absolutely awful.
The lever action at times feels like your playing a one-arm-bandit and it’s actually less confidence inspiring when pressing on.
Expensive item that feels like it was built for a tenner. Makes the car feel cheap and it’s actually an embarrassment to have a passenger with the stupid resonance.
I don’t believe in all this #becauseracecar crap so it’s currently on the fence. The BMS felt too light and didn’t have enough control weight for my liking.
I’m going to try the weight/lead shot trick and see if I can get it liveable and maybe inspire a bit more confidence in its action.
Overall, much to the fanboys disgust, it’s far from the holy grail some profess it to be, imo the OEM shifter is a far better bit of kit for a daily drive and as I’m finding so far, better for spirited driving.

• Quaife ATB diff.
Absolute game changer in terms of hook up. No more does the front axle hop on undulations, it just hooks up and goes. Fires off of roundabouts and tight corners. Genuinely improves the car at every speed with zero negative effects. Overall a superb bit of kit and probably my favourite change to date.

 

[imprezaworks]

Agree ref the pms shifter unless track car or alike.

 

[Bankrupt_drunk]

Dammit Frayz. I want a Quaife diff now. Even more so as AW Alex currently has the box out of my 172...

 

[NorthloopCup]

Dammit Frayz. I want a Quaife diff now. Even more so as AW Alex currently has the box out of my 172...

I can supply and fit Quaife’s. Ask Alex. 😉

 

[dann2707]

Keeping on with this thread on my daily driver.

• PMS rear ARB -
Nice upgrade, no nasty noises or any negative effects. Makes the car far more adjustable on throttle mid corner and adds some much needed extra bite on the front axle. It’s pretty slippery out at the mo so looking forward to leaning on it more in the dry. Overall an excellent upgrade for a daily.

• PMS shifter -
Better stick height and overall positon.
More precise feeling to the H pattern action.
Arguably better looking.

However,
Sounds absolutely awful.
The lever action at times feels like your playing a one-arm-bandit and it’s actually less confidence inspiring when pressing on.
Expensive item that feels like it was built for a tenner. Makes the car feel cheap and it’s actually an embarrassment to have a passenger with the stupid resonance.
I don’t believe in all this #becauseracecar crap so it’s currently on the fence. The BMS felt too light and didn’t have enough control weight for my liking.
I’m going to try the weight/lead shot trick and see if I can get it liveable and maybe inspire a bit more confidence in its action.
Overall, much to the fanboys disgust, it’s far from the holy grail some profess it to be, imo the OEM shifter is a far better bit of kit for a daily drive and as I’m finding so far, better for spirited driving.

• Quaife ATB diff.
Absolute game changer in terms of hook up. No more does the front axle hop on undulations, it just hooks up and goes. Fires off of roundabouts and tight corners. Genuinely improves the car at every speed with zero negative effects. Overall a superb bit of kit and probably my favourite change to date.

Fully agree with your comment about the shifter not being incredible. I felt the same about it being hard to get it in gear and the original feeling much nicer. Definitely.

However I feel that your comment about the noise and comfort is a bit silly personally as it's a race part with zero dampening. What did you expect lol

It's like buying solid top mounts and complaining that they transmit more noise.

 

[frayz]

Fully agree with your comment about the shifter not being incredible. I felt the same about it being hard to get it in gear and the original feeling much nicer. Definitely.

However I feel that your comment about the noise and comfort is a bit silly personally as it's a race part with zero dampening. What did you expect lol

It's like buying solid top mounts and complaining that they transmit more noise.

I’ve been fitting “race car parts” to road cars for years so this is nothing new to me.
However I have not fitted anything that has ever behaved this way.
I had my diff in the impreza solid mounted to the subframe, solid gear linkage, spherical bearings and full billet mounts everywhere.

Not for one second diss any of that combined feel or sound as s**t as this.
So I don’t buy the “race car part” line, sorry.

 

[panderoo]

I agree with the above to a certain degree, I've fitted several motorsport shifters to previous cars and while none have vibrated quite as much as the PMS. They have all had their own resonance so I also call the #becauseracecar a little flaky.

You can try several things to quieten the PMS down with the lead shot and heavy grease in the boots etc.. but you still seem to get some noise on overrun.

I'm currently awaiting a teflon lined spherical bearing to see if i can dial it out totally.

Having spoken with Nick @ PMS Motorsport they have tried various things to silence the shifter with different bearings and even a plastic bearing however their feeling is that the current setup is the best all round and that the PTFE lined bearings made it stiff.

Personally i would rather have the action of the shifter slightly stiffer than it is, so I'm going to experiment with that option and see how it goes.

I'll report back any findings when I've tested it on the car.

 

[frayz]

I agree with the above to a certain degree, I've fitted several motorsport shifters to previous cars and while none have vibrated quite as much as the PMS. They have all had their own resonance so I also call the #becauseracecar a little flaky.

You can try several things to quieten the PMS down with the lead shot and heavy grease in the boots etc.. but you still seem to get some noise on overrun.

I'm currently awaiting a teflon lined spherical bearing to see if i can dial it out totally.

Having spoken with Nick @ PMS Motorsport they have tried various things to silence the shifter with different bearings and even a plastic bearing however their feeling is that the current setup is the best all round and that the PTFE lined bearings made it stiff.

Personally i would rather have the action of the shifter slightly stiffer than it is, so I'm going to experiment with that option and see how it goes.

I'll report back any findings when I've tested it on the car.

I had the PTFE bearing in and it did indeed make it almost silent in every gear except 4th.
However it was so stiff that it did not inspire confidence across the gate. It would be possible when pressing on to go from say 3rd, miss 4th and actually get 2nd instead. These parts are made for driving when we are pressing on/track etc. So if they dont inspire confidence, whats the point?
I have since swapped to the updated non PTFE bearing of which allows the lever to self centre and follow the H pattern easier.
However it buzzes, rattle and generally makes the action feel cheap & nasty.

As said before, im no stranger to modified cars, performance parts with increased NVH, but this is different. I could forgive it if it were "that" much better than everything else.

But so far, it isn't.

 

[panderoo]

Interesting..

Was the preloading removed from the PTFE bearing you used ? and did you try the non-branded bearing or was it the NMB PTFE bearing ?

 

[bloke]

Simple solution to the pms rattle...change the laws of physics!!!!

 

[frayz]

Interesting..

Was the preloading removed from the PTFE bearing you used ? and did you try the non-branded bearing or was it the NMB PTFE bearing ?

Whatever PMS used in there originally. It was incredibly stiff, didn't self centre and wasn't very nice to use. Hardly any rattle at all both up and down gears, but was borderline uncomfortable to use it was so stiff.

 

[frayz]

Simple solution to the pms rattle...change the laws of physics!!!!

Agree to some extent, but it would be nice to find out exactly which part is rattling. Perhap swaping out the bearings for some Delrin if that would provide enough damping? I don't know without looking.

 

[panderoo]

Well they do have both non-branded and NMB bearings so i guess it could have been either.

I'm hoping it was an early non branded one where he preloading hadn't been removed.

I'm going to try an NMB and release the preloading first to free up the movement a little.

Hopefully it makes an improvement as i agree the non-lined one is loose at best which certainly causes mine to vibrate.

 

[frayz]

Well they do have both non-branded and NMB bearings so i guess it could have been either.

I'm hoping it was an early non branded one where he preloading hadn't been removed.

I'm going to try an NMB and release the preloading first to free up the movement a little.

Hopefully it makes an improvement as i agree the non-lined one is loose at best which certainly causes mine to vibrate.

How are you going to release the pre loading on the NMB item?

 

[panderoo]

According to PMS,
"Press the ball while holding the bearing on the outer race to just release the preload "

 

[bloke]

Agree to some extent, but it would be nice to find out exactly which part is rattling. Perhap swaping out the bearings for some Delrin if that would provide enough damping? I don't know without looking.

It's basically a solid connection to the gearbox so it will vibrate. Any slop in the box will make it worse.

 

[frayz]

It's basically a solid connection to the gearbox so it will vibrate. Any slop in the box will make it worse.

Yeah I realise that, however which part is actually creating the noise heard in the cabin.

 

[Clio_fool]

Yeah I realise that, however which part is actually creating the noise heard in the cabin.

The Renault bit its attached to😂😂.

 

[PhillipM]

I would suggest switching to a split outer-race bearing to make sure you have very low preload, fill that with a silicone damping grease, and fit a grub screw to the housing so you can just nip it up enough to remove any play that might contribute to the rattling without getting the shift too tight for the centring springs.

I don't think it'll cure it all after seeing how their designed - personally last time I looked at them I think there's probably a resonance issue in the lower bearing pack too going from the descriptions of where it occurs RPM-wise - but it might cure some of the lower frequency cabin noise.

 

[frayz]

According to PMS,
"Press the ball while holding the bearing on the outer race to just release the preload "

I've taken the PTFE lined original bearing and put it under the hydraulic press to take some of the preload out. I couldn't move it at all by hand previously and now i can force it around by hand. I'm hoping that's enough to keep the race tight but still allow the shifter the self centre in the gate.

 

[stu8v]

I've taken the PTFE lined original bearing and put it under the hydraulic press to take some of the preload out. I couldn't move it at all by hand previously and now i can force it around by hand. I'm hoping that's enough to keep the race tight but still allow the shifter the self centre in the gate.

Got a stiff shift on mine (std shifter), works well.

 

[frayz]

Got a stiff shift on mine (std shifter), works well.

This is something i may investigate if i cant get the PMS right.

 

[panderoo]

Let me know how it goes @frayz

I should be fitting my NMB PTFE bearing Friday if the damn thing arrives with Royalfail.

 

[RSPez]

Loved reading people's opinions on this thread.
Hopefully a very busy year for mine next year.

What DIFF did you go for @frayz ??

Pez

 

[frayz]

Let me know how it goes @frayz

I should be fitting my NMB PTFE bearing Friday if the damn thing arrives with Royalfail.

Will do mate, likewise keep me posted.
I’m hoping one way or other I can get the damn thing to work and be tolerable in terms of NVH.

 

[frayz]

Loved reading people's opinions on this thread.
Hopefully a very busy year for mine next year.

What DIFF did you go for @frayz ??

Pez

Quaife item.

 

[panderoo]

NMB/Minebea bearing just arrived @frayz

Interestingly you mentioned your PTFE bearing couldn't hardly be moved by hand however this one is relatively easy/smooth to move the ball around.

I think i will still try to remove the preload with a press anyway as i don't really want to be faffing with stripping the shifter too many times to play with the bearing.

Should be fitting tomorrow so i'll keep my fingers crossed and report back how it goes.

 

[frayz]

If you can smoothly move it by hand id be inclined to leave it as is and try first.
My PTFE one was fixed solid and couldn’t be moved by hand at all.

 

[panderoo]

@frayz

NMB Bearing is in and to say I'm over the moon would be a total understatement.

Nick @Pms has said there is a possibility the PTFE lined bearing may stiffen over time, but it only took 40 mins to swap so if i have to buy another in a years time so be it.

To have the shifter totally silent is a game changer..! and when i say SILENT.. I cant get any noise at any revs or on over run at all.

It's maybe 5% stiffer side to side, but still self centres .

I did put the ball under the hydraulic press to remove some preload, but i couldn't notice any real difference as it was quite free anyway.

Vids Below:
First: Original non-lined steel ball
Second: NMB PTFE
Third: Self centering

 

[RSPez]

@frayz

NMB Bearing is in and to say I'm over the moon would be a total understatement.

Nick @Pms has said there is a possibility the PTFE lined bearing may stiffen over time, but it only took 40 mins to swap so if i have to buy another in a years time so be it.

To have the shifter totally silent is a game changer..! and when i say SILENT.. I cant get any noise at any revs or on over run at all.

It's maybe 5% stiffer side to side, but still self centres .

I did put the ball under the hydraulic press to remove some preload, but i couldn't notice any real difference as it was quite free anyway.

Vids Below:
First: Original non-lined steel ball
Second: NMB PTFE
Third: Self centering

View attachment 1444509
View attachment 1444510
View attachment 1444511

That looks like a game changer for a lot of people with the rattle
Fair play to you.

Pez