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Reseting the ECU



  RSC 182 Cup
lol what a load of b****cks.

When you remap a car, you're basically editing the fueling instructions on the computer's ROM (Read only memory for the f**kwits out there:)), you can take your battery out, throw it off a cliff, take a bus to Halfords and buy a new battery, plug it in, reset your code, but it won't reset the map.

This "Learns how you drive" stuff is a load of crock too. What exactly is it meant to change ?? You're trying to say that if you "reset your battery" then you can just blat the pants off your car and it will give you more power ?? Don't think so..

Im planning on getting my car dynoed with a before ECU reset and after ECU reset so well see what happens. Its pretty clear in my mind though, it makes a huge difference (not in power or torque but in how its delivered)!

And I mean with the shat loads or Anecdotal evidence on countless forums for this car and others, along with a few expert/factual arguments made for it I dont see how you can deny its effects outright. Furthermore, have you tried it?
 
R

rich[182]

lol what a load of b****cks.

When you remap a car, you're basically editing the fueling instructions on the computer's ROM (Read only memory for the f**kwits out there:)), you can take your battery out, throw it off a cliff, take a bus to Halfords and buy a new battery, plug it in, reset your code, but it won't reset the map.

This "Learns how you drive" stuff is a load of crock too. What exactly is it meant to change ?? You're trying to say that if you "reset your battery" then you can just blat the pants off your car and it will give you more power ?? Don't think so..

Is this your opinion or is it based on having tried it ?
 
by plugging in the Clip, you can enter the petrol injection computor and re-initialize it (using a command, simular to erasing faults etc), the battery negative terminal is then disconnected for 3mins and then reconnected and then the vehicle is started up with no consumers on and left to idle for 15mins, then the car is road tested, usually by staying between 2500-3000rpm for over 30secs etc, it does vary from car to car as there is different ways to do this, this is mainly used after reprogramming a ECU or replacing items such as throttle body etc, it just sets the ECU base to its base map, and allows the ECU to 'learn' as such, parameters such as richness offset/richness gain are reset to 50% or 128 depending on vehicle and then adjust accordingly to the driving style etc, im not saying it makes a massive difference as this isnt re-programming or re-mapping a ECU, just trying to make it suit the driver more and obviously clearing any old parameters if a cars been drving about with a duff part lol

the older clios like mk1 16v/williams iirc only needed the battery neg disconnecting for it to 'reset' itself.

a quick pic of a clip parameter printoff(i do have some on my memory stick but cant find it lol) work stuff btw lol

this is off either a megane K4M 1.6 16v or a megane 225 F4R 2.0 16v tubby, cant remember!
doc1.gif

parameters PR144/143 to mention a few!
 

RSTuning

ClioSport Club Member
  R35 GTR
Yes but that is reprogging adaptives basically. Unplugging the battery does not do this so probably not worth doing.

Paul
 
that is what im on about, in order to re-initialize it you need the clip, and then disconnect the battery for 3mins etc, as i said its not reprogramming/remapping just a basic 'reset' if u like, nothinbg like remapping after modding the car etc lol

just disconnecting the battery on newer vehicles doesnt do anything(on renos anyway)
 


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