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roll cage fitting advice......



  Clio 182 Turbo
hello need some help guys just a few questions, got a bolt-in 6 point roll cage 1, when fitting would you sugest to drill the hole throught the carpet or cut a hole in the carpet so the roll cage is sat of matal and not with carpet between?? 2, after drilling the holes what do i cover the holes to seal them?? and any other advice you can offer??

thanks danny
 
  Clio 182 Turbo
lol right so cut a hole out of the carpet or take the whoel carpet out!! can any one want to help with the sealing side of things??
 
tumblr_llqfz6XpBT1qi0mkno1_400.gif
 
  Clio 182 Turbo
Err, the bolts that you drilled the holes for?

Or are you saying you have a roll cage you're going to fit, then remove, then fit, then remove...

ha ha ha ha really bolts??? never didnt think about that, was wondering what the bolts were for!

i mean so where i have drilled the holes water dont get to them and start rusting!! so was wondering if anyone had used some type of sealer??
 
  172
Don't know what you're being sarcastic about given your challenging-to-interpret spelling and grammar is making your questions difficult to grasp some of the time.

The majority of bolt-in cages still mount onto sqaure box sections which are welded onto the chassis, just like a fully welded-in cage. This is to give your cage a secure "base" to attach to, makes it easier to remove and much easier to fit in the first place. If you're not going to mount the cage on box sections (I suppose the idea is to retain as much of an OEM look as possible hence you're wanting to keep the interior) then I guess the next best thing is to mount them as you would a 3/4/5 point harness: namely a big high-tensile bolt going through your cage, through a backing plate, through the chassis and through a second backing plate. The backing plates are essential to spread the load over a large area, reducing the force on the chassis meaning a stiffer and stronger joint. Backing plates by nature, if they're made to a suitable size and shape, should be enough to keep the water out. However if you are worried then you can use anything that's water-tight really, maybe surround the backing plate with some exhaust repair gum (waterproof, heatproof and most claim to be permanent) if you've got some lying around?

For sealing the holes should you ever take the cage out - again using welded in box sections as a base avoids this issue. However if you want to skip these just use some rubber gromets from Halfords or B&Q etc. Personally to stop the grommets falling out I'd stick one in each side of the hole and put a small nut & bolt through them.

Also use stainless steel nuts/bolts/backing plates as these will not corrode.

I know that ended up uneccessarily long, sorry.
 
Last edited:
  Clio 182 Turbo
Don't know what you're being sarcastic about given your challenging-to-interpret spelling and grammar is making your questions difficult to grasp some of the time.

The majority of bolt-in cages still mount onto sqaure box sections which are welded onto the chassis, just like a fully welded-in cage. This is to give your cage a secure "base" to attach to, makes it easier to remove and much easier to fit in the first place. If you're not going to mount the cage on box sections (I suppose the idea is to retain as much of an OEM look as possible hence you're wanting to keep the interior) then I guess the next best thing is to mount them as you would a 3/4/5 point harness: namely a big high-tensile bolt going through your cage, through a backing plate, through the chassis and through a second backing plate. The backing plates are essential to spread the load over a large area, reducing the force on the chassis meaning a stiffer and stronger joint. Backing plates by nature, if they're made to a suitable size and shape, should be enough to keep the water out. However if you are worried then you can use anything that's water-tight really, maybe surround the backing plate with some exhaust repair gum (waterproof, heatproof and most claim to be permanent) if you've got some lying around?

For sealing the holes should you ever take the cage out - again using welded in box sections as a base avoids this issue. However if you want to skip these just use some rubber gromets from Halfords or B&Q etc. Personally to stop the grommets falling out I'd stick one in each side of the hole and put a small nut & bolt through them.

Also use stainless steel nuts/bolts/backing plates as these will not corrode.

I know that ended up uneccessarily long, sorry.

Sorry about my spelling and grammer was on my phone when writing the thread so apologies.

And that is all i wanted to know, so thank you very much for your help, wish everyone on this site was as helpfull!
 
  172
No problem, as ever on something safety orientated it'd be wise to hang around for some more opinions before rushing off and doing stuff. A downfall I can see in your "no box sections" plan is that in some areas you may find the floor is suprisingly thin and may even flex slightly under the load of the cage when you're cornering or worse when you're upside down.

Maybe give some proffesional roll-cage people (e.g. Custom Cages) a ring if you don't get what you're looking for on here?
 
  172 cup, Impreza P1
Be careful as well as if your car is purely for the road then a full 6 point cage will not be covered by many insurance companies due to serious head injuries if in a crash while not wearing a helmet going to tesco's. You'd be better with a simple bolt in rear cage that can be removed as simple as it went in. The ktr bolt in cage would do the job you're looking for.
 
  Clio 182 Turbo
Be careful as well as if your car is purely for the road then a full 6 point cage will not be covered by many insurance companies due to serious head injuries if in a crash while not wearing a helmet going to tesco's. You'd be better with a simple bolt in rear cage that can be removed as simple as it went in. The ktr bolt in cage would do the job you're looking for.

Good shout, will keep that in mind!
 
  ph1-172
I've just fitted a cage in mine, it was a nightmare. had to take the tank off, completely gut the interior and weld puncture plates in. really got fucked off while doing it, almost gave up and broke the car lol

after being advised by a rally car builder and a few rally drivers the plates really need doing properly. their designed to punch through the floor in the case of a really bad accident.
 


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