The brake pedal switch is actually two switches in a single assembly. One is responsible for tuning on/off the actual brake lights. The other is a throwback to the ECU which is used to reduce power output under braking and to turn off cruise control (if active/applicable). Both switches need to switch between open and closed circuit in sync otherwise the ABS ECU see's pressure rise in the brake module without seeing the "request" for actual braking from the brake pedal switch.
If the switch isn't correctly setup the circuits don't work in sync and the ABS module declares a faulty brake pedal switch/circuit.
Normally, I see this happen more when people are gently touching the brakes in slow traffic which causes the fault to be detected. Other times, when the brake switch is hugely incorrect it happens all the time.
Mick
I put my DMM on the switch and discovered there's one normally open and one normally closed switch.
The 4 pins (=) of the (white) connector are labelled as follows:
1 3
A = =
B = =
So the ID of each pin (going anticlockwise) is A1, B1, B3, A3.
One switch is between A1 and B3 and the other switch is between B1 and B3.
When the plunger is pushed in (brake pedal would be fully released) switch A1-B3 is CLOSED and switch B1-A3 is OPEN. When the plunger is fully out (brake pedal would be pressed), its opposite (switch A1-B3 is OPEN & switch B1-A3 is CLOSED.
I don't know which switch is associated with which function, i.e. brake lights or ABS, however on my switch, this is the timing:
Plunger Pedal A1-B3 B1-A3