1. Rinse down car to remove lose shite [Pressure Washer]
2. Washcar with Bucket and washmitt to remove further dirt thoroughly.
-No drying needed at this stage.
2. Clay car [Sonus green, or seeing as the car will be polished up via machine, megs agressive clay (see polished bliss)]
-Clay is simply rubbing the clay bar gently over the paintwork to remove all bonded contaminates such as tar and bonded dirt, paint and clay bad must be kept lubricated using whatever you want, some shampoo and water in a spray bottle will be fine, or use water if you want. Take a claybar and cut it into 3rds or as you require, make a wafer out of the clay and proceed as above.
3. Wash again via bucket and washmitt quickly to remove anything left.
4. Dry car.
4b. Use a good masking tape to mask up all vynal and rubber, and all other aquard places.
5. Machine polish with G220 - [Sonus pad] [Menz polish] [halogen lamp or bright lamp required/reccomended to asses swirl marks and other damage]
A quick word of advice.....If you use a cutting pad and a compounding polish, you will find the finish is dulled slightly with black, and many other colours actually, and going back over the car with final finish is a good idea if your after a good result. This stage will remove all minor scratches and working with a cutting pad and a compound you will be able to remove some of the deeper scratches.
6. Super Resin Polish [A good base for Last stage producs like wax and EGP, apply via hand and a Microfibre applicator, or if you like, a duster or a lint free soft rag which wont scratch the paintwork]
5a. Extra Gloss Protection [1 layer every 24 hours (leave for 24 hours before applying another coat, allow 1 hour after application for it to dry and then buff off) - will require a coat of srp before use to enable it to bond correctly, this stage is optional, and i only reccomend it if you have access to a garage where you are able to leave the car in to keep dry overnight, so you can then apply a second coat or apply a layer of wax after the 24 hour period withou tthe need of rewashing.]
5b. Wax - if you want it [Make sure there is a 24 hour period between the EGP and the coat of wax. There should be a 12 hour period between each coat of wax. ] Try the collinite 476s, its cheap and durable, im using it at the moment, i have applied it on 2 silver cars so far and the reults have been fantastic, however i have yet to see the reults on black.
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I've a feeling I'm way off the mark, but is that 100% right?
Almost
Is the Menz polish effectively doing the same thing as the SRP?
You can use final finish and then not use srp. But EGP will need srp for it to bond. However, you can jump from final finish straight to the wax if you want. SRP is filler heavy and contains hardly any abrasives, where as other menz polished contain abrasives and no fillers. A filler heavy product will mask swirl marks, where as one with abrasives will wear down the clearcoat untill the swirl marks are gone.
Could somebody point me in the direction of, or write me out, a step by step list if the above is wrong.
As far as I know the products I've chosen will achieve a good finish, I'm just not sure how to use them to best effect.
Hoping i have explained some or most of that above. I definately reccomend the SFX pads and the Menz polishes, they are a fantastic combination and the menz polishes contain no fillers as far as i know.
Oh and I know all the scratch won't come out Rich, but I'm hoping to tidy it up.
Look into wetsanding mate, but from what i can see the damage is pretty bad, so i personally think a new bumper is in order.
Wetsanding is basically going over the scratch with a paintstick, letting it dry, sanding it down with 3000 grit wet or dry paper which has been soaked in soapy water for 24 hours and literally sanding untill the surface is level, and then going over the sanded area with a machine polisher.
phew :boring:
