ClioSport.net

Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

spoiler spray



  clio 1.2
ive bought a spoiler but its silver and i want to paint it black, can anyone quickly go through what i need to do ? ie do i need to sand down first, then paint, laquer etc etc ??

cheers
 

MRBILLYUK

ClioSport Club Member
  FF Jeden Osiem Dwa
Sand it down with 320 grit wet and dry to give the primer something to key to . Wipe down with a tac cloth or panel wipe so it's completely dust free .

Primer , a couple of coats until your happy with the finish . Wet and dry that with some 800 grit .

Wipe down again so its clean , dust and grease free .

Colour coat it until your happy with the colour . Thin coats .

Leave 24 hours to completely dry .

Lacquer , i'd go for at least 3 coats until your happy with the gloss finish .

Leave to dry in a warm place to help the lacquer go off .
 
Im right in the middle of painting my silver sport spoiler black too.
I had a problem getting the squirty bit out..so if you get stuck with it, pm me.
It worth taking it out as peeling can start from places like that...so dont just mask round it.
What spoiler did you go for? I got the 172.
 
  clio 1.2
i got the 172 one aswell mate, and i had the same problem trying to get the spray bit out aswell. any tips ?
 
  Punto/Clio GTT
What Will I Need For Preparing/Primering?

- Mixed Dry Sandpaper (P180 & P320)
- Aerosol Cellulose Primer
- Aerosol Matt or Satin Black Spray Paint
- Cleaning Rags

*Optional Item*

- Aerosol Spray Gun Adapter (More even spraying and generally easier) Link
- Panel Wipe

---------------------------------------------------------

Preparing

Heres what were going to be preparing ready for primering

DSCF0402.jpg




Step 1.

The spoiler on top is generally a flat and shiny surface. Were going to have to rough it up with sandpaper to give the primer something to key to.

For this i'll advise using P320 dry sandpaper like my P320 scuffpad below

DSCF0403.jpg



Give the item a very good rubbing down all over so the paint goes very dull and no longer shiny


DSCF0404.jpg



DSCF0406.jpg



DSCF0407.jpg




Now were going to spin the spoiler over and start preparing the underside.


DSCF0408.jpg



If we look closely, we can see how the underside of this item is very textured. Theres 2 ways we can about doing this.

1: Sand down the spoiler until its all completely smooth or
2: Rough it up with sandpaper and build up lots of layers of primer


DSCF0410.jpg



As you can see, along the underside is a line seperating the two parts of the texture. This is an ideal place for me to prep to.

With P180 sandpaper we can sand down to this line and smooth it completely like the pictures below.

DSCF0411.jpg



DSCF0412.jpg



DSCF0413.jpg



The rest of the textured area of the underside of this item can simply be sanded down with P180 too, but dont be too fussy, this is the underside of a spoiler and cannot be seen, if you really want to sand it all down perfectly then do so, but you will be using primer thats unneccessary to do so.

Now were going to go round all the lines of this item. If we dont prep in these lines, the paint will simply flake off, as the primer has nothing to key to.

DSCF0420.jpg




---------------------------------------------------

Cleaning

We're now ready to clean this item ready for primering. I advise using Panel Wipe and lint free cloths. If you dont have this to hand, then some soapy water will be fine, just make sure the item is dried 100% before any primering is started.

DSCF0422.jpg



DSCF0423.jpg




---------------------------------------------------------


Primering

Now with the item clean, we're now ready to start primering. For this item im going to be using between 1 and 2 cans of cellulose aerosol primer. Eventually i will be spraying the spoiler silver, so grey primer is the ideal choice for this basecoat. If you're going to be paint it blue or red or green, then try get the primer to match the colour (if possible) or as near to. This means it will take less coats of basecoat (colour) to cover the primer and thus in turn saving us money.

DSCF0425.jpg




We'll start by primering the underside. Why? If we primer the top of this spoiler first and then turn it over to paint the underside, we'll more than likely scratch into it and this is the side that we want 100% perfect as its the side we're going to see once its on the car.


Start by primering your edges with dust coats. hold your can about 6 inches away from your item and do nice smooth coats from left to right, back and fourth.

Continue this until all of your spoiler has been primered.


DSCF0426.jpg



DSCF0427.jpg



DSCF0428.jpg



DSCF0429.jpg



DSCF0430.jpg




Now the underside is done, leave it for 20 minutes or so or until its touch dry and spin it over so we can primer the other side.

Again, do your edges first.


DSCF0434.jpg



DSCF0435.jpg



DSCF0436.jpg



DSCF0438.jpg




The spoiler can now be left for another 10-20 minutes. When its touch dry, spray a fine dust of matt/satin black over the top of the spoiler and over the edge of the underside where we smoothed the texture. This mist of spray when it dries will act as a guidecoat. It will sink into imperfections, indents, scratches and rough areas.

I will cover this more when we move onto the sanding part in the next section.


DSCF0439.jpg



DSCF0444.jpg




I advise leaving this primer to dry for 2-3 days to give it time to really sink into the item and get right into scratches and the texture.

What Will I Need For The Final Prep & Paint?

- Aerosol Basecoat (Colour)
- Aerosol Cellulose Laquer (Clearcoat)
- Wetordry Sandpaper (P800 or P1000 or P1200)
- Rubber Sanding Block
- Bucket
- Cleaning Rags

*Optional Items*

- Aerosol Spray Gun Adapter (More even spraying and generally easier) Link
- Panel Wipe


-----------------------------------------------------


Preparing The Primer

Now our primer is completely dry and sunk into the item well, we can now start to wet flat it down. You're going to need a bucket, some warm soapy water and some wetordry flatting paper (P800/P1000 or P1200).

If your preparing a flat surface, ensure you use a rubber sanding block, this keeps our prep even and makes for a perfectly flat finish.


DSCF0446.jpg




Keep the item as wet as possible at all times as the sandpaper will clog up with primer as we sand it down. Not using enough water will inevitibly clog the paper up and possibly cause damage to the primer, so lots of water is essential.

Im going to be preparing the primer on the underside of the spoiler first which is not a flat surface, it has many awkward places to prep so a block would be useless.

Side door strips, bumper mouldings, door handles and boot looks etc, all should be rubbed down by hand. Keep your hand as flat as possible and sand it down evenly, dont press in with your fingers or you will have finger lines in your basecoat which stand out pretty bad.

Keep flatting until all your guidecoat is gone (matt/satin black aerosol we sprayed on beforehand).


DSCF0448.jpg




Now the undersides done we're gonna flip it over and prepare the top side. This is a very flat surface, so for this im going to use the rubber sanding block.


DSCF0449.jpg



DSCF0451.jpg



DSCF0453.jpg



As you can see, weve broken through the primer in a lot of areas due to having to wetflat out various chips/dinks/scratces etc. So best option would be to give it another light coat of primer, leave it about 20-30 minutes and wetflat it down.

Remember to clean the item completely before any spraying takes place.



DSCF0454.jpg



DSCF0455.jpg



DSCF0457.jpg



-------------------------------------------------------


Masking & Cleaning Ready To Paint

Now the primering is flatted, we're now ready to clean the item and mask it up. Ideally you should use Panel Wipe to clean your item but warm soapy water is suffiecient enough.

Masking tape generally comes in 2 sizes; 1 Inch and 2 Inch, but ive managed to get some 1 1/2 Inch masking tape but it doesnt really matter which you use. Just buy which is best for the job.

The spoiler im painting is, ideally, split into 2 parts. So im going to be painting this item in 2 phases. Firstly im going to be spraying the underside with basecoat and then laquer then a few days later i can re-mask it up and spray the top half.

If i decided that i needed to spray the item in one go then the best bet would be to hag this item up. I would have used a washing line i think with some string running to the spoiler mounting bolts. Improvise, do what needs to be done.


DSCF0458.jpg



DSCF0460.jpg



DSCF0459.jpg




--------------------------------------------------------


Spraying


Time to do some spraying. Firstly we need to get our spray area set up. Im going to be using a state of the art spraybooth. These cannot be bought and have to be constructed on-site.


DSCF0483.jpg



;)


Firstly were gonna be spraying on the basecoat. This should be dusted on from around 6 inches away from your item.

Keep the coats long and even and dont put it on too wet. We're trying to get the colour right, were not trying to get a finish, this comes with the laquer.

Spray your edges first and any awkward areas, then do long even sprays across your panel.


DSCF0466.jpg



DSCF0468.jpg



DSCF0469.jpg




DSCF0477.jpg




In the below 2 pictures you can see the difference from a textured finish, to a smooth finish.



DSCF0493.jpg




DSCF0473.jpg




Keep building up your basecoat until your happy that you have the right colour and that you have a nice even finish. It can then be put somewhere to dry for 30 minutes or so.

*note* Basecoats usually dry very fast but it can be dependant on a number of factors, such as weather, the ammount of paint you used and whether or not your applying heat.

DO NOT laquer an item while the basecoat is still wet, the laquer will pull it down and cause a dragging effect.

You can generally leave an item which has been basecoated for about 2-3 days before it would need wetflatting down again for the laquer to key.


DSCF0486.jpg




DSCF0490.jpg




DSCF0485.jpg




Now the basecoat is completely dry, we can now go and laquer it. Give your item another wipe over to ensure its dust-free, in bodyshops they generally use tak-rags which im sure you can get from your local car spares shop but it isnt essential.

Spray your laquer on pretty wet, keeping the coats very even. You should generally aim for 2-3 good coats. leaving 10-20 minutes between each coat.

If you do get a run in the laquer, stop spraying. Just let it dry, give the run a wetflat with some P800/P1000 or P1200 and dust on some more basecoat. Let that dry, then continue with your laquering.

Heres the end results of the underside of the spoiler below. The top side will be sprayed in a few days time.


DSCF0500.jpg



DSCF0503.jpg



DSCF0504.jpg



DSCF0508.jpg



DSCF0509.jpg


What Will I Need For The Final Paint?

- Aerosol Basecoat (Colour)
- Aerosol Cellulose Laquer (Clearcoat)
- Masking Tape
- Cleaning Rags

*Optional Items*

- Aerosol Spray Gun Adapter (More even spraying and generally easier) Link
- Panel Wipe

------------------------------------------------------

Final Paint

Now that the underside of our spoiler is cured, we can now mask it up and paint the top side.

*Tip* When masking onto fresh paint, always peel the masking tape off the roll, and press it onto your trouser leg or chest to take away some of the stickyness. This majorly reduces the chances of any paint being ripped off when we come to de-mask it.


DSCF0510.jpg




DSCF0511.jpg




DSCF0515.jpg




Firstly were gonna be spraying on the basecoat. This should be dusted on from around 6 inches away from your item.

Keep the coats long and even and dont put it on too wet. We're trying to get the colour right, were not trying to get a finish, this comes with the laquer.

Spray your edges first and any awkward areas, then do long even sprays across your panel.

Keep building up your basecoat until your happy that you have the right colour and that you have a nice even finish. It can then be put somewhere to dry for 30 minutes or so.

*note* Basecoats usually dry very fast but it can be dependant on a number of factors, such as weather, the ammount of paint you used and whether or not your applying heat.

DO NOT laquer an item while the basecoat is still wet, the laquer will pull it down and cause a dragging effect.

You can generally leave an item which has been basecoated for about 2-3 days before it would need wetflatting down again for the laquer to key.


DSCF0517.jpg




DSCF0520.jpg






Now the basecoat is completely dry, we can now go and laquer it. Give your item another wipe over to ensure its dust-free, in bodyshops they generally use tak-rags which im sure you can get from your local car spares shop but it isnt essential.

Spray your laquer on pretty wet, keeping the coats very even. You should generally aim for 2-3 good coats. leaving 10-20 minutes between each coat.



DSCF0528.jpg



DSCF0530.jpg





Heres our end result.



DSCF0537.jpg



DSCF0538.jpg



DSCF0540.jpg
 
The process you have suggested is very sound but taking days to spray a spoiler seems a bit overkill imo.

Although it will give the very best finish im not doubting that, i wouldnt take longer than a day to spray a spoiler. use a heater and it will speed things up
 
  Punto/Clio GTT
in a bodyshop, completely agree, but at home ide tend to advise to take your time, theres no rush.

that took 2 days to do purely because it was sprayed in 2 parts and i didnt want to mark the laquer with the masking for the 2nd spray.
 
  172 ph2
if the spoiler is silver and yo want it black why prime it??if its damaged yes but if ok then just flat it down with 1000/800 grit paper.
 
if the spoiler is silver and yo want it black why prime it??if its damaged yes but if ok then just flat it down with 1000/800 grit paper.



Well the bloke at Renault said about just giving it a key...if using Renault paint and the pearl black is the best covering.
Depends how good a job you want and if you want it to last.
That squirty thing does push out but you have to tilt it and push down. it come out at an angle. helps to wiggle it the other side.
 
  172 ph2
priming a job when it doesnt need priming wont make it last any longer.i would avoid using aerosol primer is this will just shrink in time, but what do i no im only a painter.
 
I dont have much choice in painting mine with aerosol..iv use plastic primer and the finish is superb.
had advice of my bro who is a pro too.
 


Top