Has anyone rattle canned their front bumper?

[ex-Chinese Dave]

If you did how did it go? What were the results? etc

My Cup's front bumper is pretty bad for stone chips and has a bad crack under a headlight that someone has tried to repair before...badly! I've had it off before (ooh err missus!) and it's not in bad condition apart from the above problems. I'm considering flattening it off, repairing the chips and crack, and then spraying it myself with rattle cans and then a lacquer. I really don't want to touch the paint on the car despite road rash and all that as it's original and is with the character of a 22 year old car.

 

[Matt Cup]

I wouldn’t bother pal. Not with rattle cans anyway.

 

[ex-Chinese Dave]

Challenge accepted! lol

 

[Matt Cup]

Just make sure you get the right colour then eh @andybond 😝

 

[ex-Chinese Dave]

That would be an issue. It may be better for me to try and repair the crack first and see how it matches up. Do you know the paint code and a good brand to use?

 

[andybond]

That would be an issue. It may be better for me to try and repair the crack first and see how it matches up. Do you know the paint code and a good brand to use?

D43. Mondual blue.

Buy a 2pac lacquer. You cannot get factory shine from anything else

 

[Brigsy]

If you wantmit to look good, save your time and effort and put it in a bodyshop. Rattle can finish generally looks crap and chips very easily.

 

[KitsonRis]

I rattle can’d the bumper on my Ph1.
Does it look better than it did - yes.
Could it be better without a proper respray - no.
Do I regret doing it - no.

I only did it as the whole bumper was like flat and faded and no amount of polish was going to get it back. Did a few coats of plastic primer, sanded it back, few coats of silver, flat it back on the first few coats, lacquer on top. Came out alright for a quick job. Only did it to make the car pass the 10ft test which it now does. But the whole car needs a respray so was only a stop gap fix.

 

[Jamess182]

With good prep, decent rattle can paint, 2k lacquer and a wet sand, you can get a pretty damn good finish from a rattle can. But the 2K lacquer is absolutely key.

 

[ex-Chinese Dave]

Yeah, I'm very tempted as a lot of jobs have gone to Birchdown as I just don't have the space to do a bit myself. I want to do as much as I can for the personal satisfaction as I do like to tinker, to a limit. I've just repaired the original splitter and it's not a bad attempt IMO. To make this car mint would take a full respray which just isn't on the cards, but if I can get it better than it is at the mo i'll be happy. The wiper arms need doing too as they are badly chipped.

 

[ex-Chinese Dave]

Any advice regarding coverage is welcome. Would a 400ml can from Halfords be enough? And what primer do you recommend?

 

[andybond]

Any advice regarding coverage is welcome. Would a 400ml can from Halfords be enough? And what primer do you recommend?

Any plastic primer.

You will need 2 cans and a decent lacquer

 

[KitsonRis]

Any advice regarding coverage is welcome. Would a 400ml can from Halfords be enough? And what primer do you recommend?

I think I used at least three cans of colour and two lacquer.

 

[Gally]

 

[ex-Chinese Dave]

I’m buying 4 cans, 3 lacquers and 2 sets of wiper blades.

 

[massiveCoRbyn]

If you wantmit to look good, save your time and effort and put it in a bodyshop. Rattle can finish generally looks crap and chips very easily.

This is the thing I have noticed. For some reason, when I've painted stuff with a gun and compressor, it has been wayyyyyy more durable than stuff done with rattle cans.

 

[Matt Cup]

This is the thing I have noticed. For some reason, when I've painted stuff with a gun and compressor, it has been wayyyyyy more durable than stuff done with rattle cans.

Thats pretty obvious tbf. There are an infinite amount of adjustments with a compressor and a gun you just need to get that right along with the correct ratio of paint and hardener. Where you are at the mercy of the nozzle quality (this varies quite a bit) and pressure dropping with aerosol.

 

[ex-Chinese Dave]

I'd never try and rattle can a panel as I agree that trying to get a uniform coverage over a large surface area would be very difficult. The front bumper has so many different contours that break up the surface area so would be much easier although not easy. And yeah, it's a good point about the pressure dropping off in a can and the nozzle spray pattern being a bit random. Still, as my bumper doesn't pass the 20 foot test I'm sure I can get it to pass the 10 footer.

 

[ex-Chinese Dave]

Can anyone recommend the best Halfords lacquer? They don’t seem to have a 2k one.

 

[Matt Cup]

Not Halfords but take a look here for alternatives.

https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/threads/2k-clear-lacquer-aerosol-recommendations.410836/

 

[Rob]

Can anyone recommend the best Halfords lacquer? They don’t seem to have a 2k one.

Only buy 2k. Or I genuinely wouldn’t bother

 

[Brigsy]

Go to a paint suppliers for matched cans and 2k lacquer. Its more expensive but loads better

 

[Matt e]

ProXL lacquer is decent

 

[Flob]

I've bought paint from this place and the colour match was good

One Stop Paints

Custom aerosol spray paint cans, litre tins, tester & repair pots.

www.riolettcustomaerosols.co.uk

This 2k in a can clear coat is the best I've used:

2K Clear coat | SprayMax

2K clear coat with very high chemical, gasoline, and weathering resistance for high-quality and longterm sealing of repair paint jobs and new paint jobs on cars and motorcycles.

www.spraymax.com

You need a mask for proper 2k.

 

[Flob]

Saying that.... how much is a body shop for a bumper? £2-300?

 

[Rob]

Saying that.... how much is a body shop for a bumper? £2-300?

I was gonna say, by the time you’ve bought all this you’ll save yourself about £60 and not be that happy with it. Having spent 15 hours f**king around.

A mighty £4 an hour!

 

[ex-Chinese Dave]

First step will be to repair the damage and take it from there. I’m sure I can make a decent job of it compared to how it is now. I do appreciate all the advice, however.

 

[ex-Chinese Dave]

I had a real close look at my bumper today and got a few photos. It's clearly been painted in the past and the worst part is under the N/S headlight which is cracked again after a crap repair. I actually noticed some overspray on the rear seat upright (I kid you not!) which suggests to me that someone was in a rush to put some paint on this car or bought some bits from someone who doesn't know how and where to paint!

There are obviously too many individual chips and marks to touch up each and every one so it definitely needs a full respray. This has got body shop written all over it!

 

[Flob]

I f**king hate cowboys. Couldn't even be bothered to pull the washer out the pricks. If you look where the paint has peeled (not just clear) you can see they also did zero prep.

People are such c***s.

 

[Matt Cup]

Don’t forget to buy some of the bumper inserts if you are doing/getting a full respray.

 

[Flob]

PS - to add, that would be a proper nightmare to prep properly mate. I have hobo painted a lot of stuff and I genuinely wouldn't want to be doing that. Because they have done no prep you would need to remove all they shite paint/clear which would be a real pain even with a da.

If it were me I would just shelve this idea and keep an eye on ebay for a front bumper in the right colour. The risk is that a cheap body shop wouldn't remove all the old fucked paint and would just do minimal prep, which would look good for a year or so then fail again.

 

[ex-Chinese Dave]

Don’t forget to buy some of the bumper inserts if you are doing/getting a full respray.

£42 those !! F me! I think i'll be cleaning these up myself.

Taking it to a body shop in the am for a quote.....it's actually at the place my brother works at. I didn't know they had kept their body shop all these years!