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well its sand paper, but of a very fine gradient, so it doesnt leave reough marks..... basically, you can use it to get a smooth finish on a pain/primer or lacquer finish, but then you can wet it to get an even smoother finish!
took me all of half an hour to do my engine cover including masking up...
Suzuki Ignis Sport
What gradient should i use for wet and dry then?
off the top of my head i cant remember what i used, but its very fine stuff!!
best option is to buy a sanding block (each side is different gradient) to start it off, then work from rough to smoothest..... once thats done smooth with dry "wet n dry", followed by wet "wet n dry"...... then add primer, once dry, use wet paper again, prime again and same...... once thats dry skim with fine coat of paint then dry sand, then continue the process until you got good paint coverage, once dry wet sand it smooth (might not need it at this pint depending on how well you finished the coat) followed by lacquer..... (few layers of this in fine coats.....) once thats done and dry, leave it over night then you can wax/polish but DONT use a cutting polish (autoglym has a fine cutting agent and can cause swirl marks in new paint IIRC)
good luck and post some pics
best option is to buy a sanding block (each side is different gradient) to start it off, then work from rough to smoothest..... once thats done smooth with dry "wet n dry", followed by wet "wet n dry"...... then add primer, once dry, use wet paper again, prime again and same...... once thats dry skim with fine coat of paint then dry sand, then continue the process until you got good paint coverage, once dry wet sand it smooth (might not need it at this pint depending on how well you finished the coat) followed by lacquer..... (few layers of this in fine coats.....) once thats done and dry, leave it over night then you can wax/polish but DONT use a cutting polish (autoglym has a fine cutting agent and can cause swirl marks in new paint IIRC)
good luck and post some pics
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