I'm looking to get a small sub and have ended up looking at underseat subs as they seem like exactly what I want, fairly priced, small and offering a more rounded overall sound. Does anyone have any recommendations? This is one sub that i've been looking at: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BO8O9XQ/?tag=cliospnet01-21
ClioSport.net
Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
-
When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.
Subwoofer recommendations?
- Thread starter 197.
- Start date
Gus
ClioSport Moderator
182Turbo,DCi90
@DS197. http://www.cliosport.net/threads/perfect-underseat-sub-stereo-and-speaker-install.758455/
little bit more pricey than the linked kenwood but worth it.
little bit more pricey than the linked kenwood but worth it.
SWL16
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 182
Either or both.
I use one of the Kenwoods in an MX5, goes behind the passenger seat.
Depending on what systems you may have had before, don't expect too much from these underseat units. It'll fill out the sound and let you turn it up more without having your tweeters take your ears out, but it's not going to shake your windows.
I can't really fault it.
Depending on what systems you may have had before, don't expect too much from these underseat units. It'll fill out the sound and let you turn it up more without having your tweeters take your ears out, but it's not going to shake your windows.
I can't really fault it.
Tim.
ClioSport Club Member
Jekyll
ClioSport Club Member
Subscribed!
Clio 182 - RB
http://www.handtec.co.uk/jl-audio-8-inch-powered-subwoofer.html?gclid=CIX2o5Tl688CFckaGwodIFIKDA
And make is flush with a boot build [emoji1305]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
And make is flush with a boot build [emoji1305]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Horses for courses.
Between a sub in the boot, alpine in the dashboard and stock 172 speakers, mine was fine. But probably not enough to handle the UK Grime scene.
Clio 182 - RB
Depends what you listen too, as I know you're taking the piss I listen to UK Grime [emoji636] Before hand it was fuzzy, not its prime.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Purely a shot in the dark.
Based on this thread I now have a kenwood unit ready to fit.
I'm intending to connect to the fuse panel rather than battery.
Any tips on where to run the RCA cable so it won't interfere with the power cable which will run passenger side. I will place it under the passenger seat.
I'm also thinking there is already power under there to the CD player but I doubt the wire is up to carrying 7.5amps
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
I'm intending to connect to the fuse panel rather than battery.
Any tips on where to run the RCA cable so it won't interfere with the power cable which will run passenger side. I will place it under the passenger seat.
I'm also thinking there is already power under there to the CD player but I doubt the wire is up to carrying 7.5amps
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
If you're going to have it under the pass seat, you may as well run a fresh line to the battery....
Or... hang on. Battery is on the pass. Side underbonnet, yeah?
As for your RCAs, can't really think how you'll avoid it, but some good quality, shielded RCA should mean you're fine to keep them close to powet
Or... hang on. Battery is on the pass. Side underbonnet, yeah?
As for your RCAs, can't really think how you'll avoid it, but some good quality, shielded RCA should mean you're fine to keep them close to powet
Thanks - I've never really done a job like this before. I've now installed the sub, run all wiring in a loom to the glovebox area.
I don't have an RCA cable so cannot finish the job. I'm still keen to use the fuse box as it's right there and I can't easily see a grommet to get though.
The instructions seem to indicate the system needs two power sources. One is to the battery and therefore permanently live. There is a spare permanent live in the bottom of the fuse panel so I will use that.
The other is for the sub signal cable (blue wire)
I've connected this to the spare blue wire in my head unit loom but it has another connector which it seems on the diagram to connect to a switched live.
I'm really wondering if that's really needed? I don't have a wire in the kit for that. The head unit has power, the sub has its power.. why would another power connection to the signal wire be needed?
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Gus
ClioSport Moderator
182Turbo,DCi90
The blue remote is so the sub is only on when the headunit is on. It may drain your battery otherwise.
The power consumption may be more than the fuse panel can take - Im not a hundred percent sure about this but I would look in to it.
The kenwood linked in the OP is 150w so 150 divide by 12 v is 12.5 amps - will the spare fuse connection take this.
You also need an earthing point for the sub too.
The grommit/bung that you refer to is the bonnet lever cable , follow that and it will go through the bung. This is the hardest part of the install - getting the live cable through that. @chaski gave me a tip in using the bic biro with the insides taken out.
The power consumption may be more than the fuse panel can take - Im not a hundred percent sure about this but I would look in to it.
The kenwood linked in the OP is 150w so 150 divide by 12 v is 12.5 amps - will the spare fuse connection take this.
You also need an earthing point for the sub too.
The grommit/bung that you refer to is the bonnet lever cable , follow that and it will go through the bung. This is the hardest part of the install - getting the live cable through that. @chaski gave me a tip in using the bic biro with the insides taken out.
12.5 if it's a 150w one. Mine was 150w and I'd have thought most are.
EDIT: lol, beaten to it.
The reason I wanted to use the fuse box was;
1) it's easier
2) I saw a post on another forum where the poster had done this and had no issue
3) the amp would have two 10amp fuses in line protecting the amp
4) 150w is not going to happen in my car as I just don't listen to music that loud
5) the instructions show the cable connecting to the fuse panel rather than direct to the battery ?
6) the cable already has a 10amp fuses in line so surely this must be the max with some headroom
However I am new to this so willing to take advice
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Last edited:
As an update I managed to use the fuse panel and the blue signal wire works from the head unit. The sub powers on and off with the head unit.
The fuse panel fuse slot is a switched live. It's the rear wiper I think.
Still no RCA cable so I can't test it properly yet. I soldered the add a circuit to the battery cable.
The pic below shows it finished. The second tap is actually no longer in use. It was powering a dash cam. I need to move these about a bit as clearance is a bit tight in there
The fuse panel fuse slot is a switched live. It's the rear wiper I think.
Still no RCA cable so I can't test it properly yet. I soldered the add a circuit to the battery cable.
The pic below shows it finished. The second tap is actually no longer in use. It was powering a dash cam. I need to move these about a bit as clearance is a bit tight in there
