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Nokias effort now is in Maemo, the SDK is Qt and is awesome, I don't develop any desktop software at work that isn't written in Qt, it's just about as perfect a set of libraries as you could imagine.
Of course, QtCreator which is the IDE is good and is getting better with every release.
And it's all open source too.
The best thing nokia ever did was buying trolltech and making Qt available under the LGPL.