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Taking the F7P to 2ltr F7R spec.
- Thread starter lofty
- Start date
to convert an f7p to williams spec, ur gunna need:
williams/1.9 diesel crankshaft= by from a scrappy
standard 16v rods= got em already
clio willaims pistons(82.7mm)= 75quid each from ren
clio williams piston rings=35quid from ren(not sure whether thats a set or not)
optional
32mm inlet valves(30mm standard)
clio williams camshafts(longer duration, and .6mm increased valve lift)
if ur boring out the standard f7p block, u can use the existing 1.8 starter motor, no need for the willy one. also the 150bhp f7r used in the megne was a 1.8 head on a 2litre bottom end. had the power, but not the torque of the williams lump.
no need to change the sumps over, tho its advised to stick in anew oil ump for safety.
jimbo
Jimbo!
i was hoping you would spot my thread, are you 100% that given the parts stated i could do the conversion without mega hassel?
where has Red16 gone? im sure he has got a fiesta RST now,
hes put a 2.0 megan bottom end on a 16v headm but im sure he said that the head is the same, im pretty dure the TB is the same and i was hoping i could just go for a williams chip,
im worried about spunking all the cash on the bits and then getting stuck on a load of un-foreseen problems,
Jimbo have you heard of this conversion being succussfuly done?
well, i can remeber a few months back, nick was contacted by sum1, and he sed theyl all fit together.
the diesel crnakshaft, id get from a scrappy. find a ren19 1.9 diesel. pull out the crank. bin the rest.
wat i wud do, is to balance all the bottom end bits, get the rods shot-peened, or even by new rods from arrow perfromance(175quid each). then rev the engine real high, and slap super wild cams in it. then throttle body it to finish off. but im just dreaming now......
jimbo
I think it would be cheaper to find a 2ltr Megan bottom end than to change the crankshaft/pistons in you current lump, the 2ltr bottom end and the F7P head fit striaght together, they use the same gasket face. A fully worked F7P head/manifolds, 32mm inlet valves, Piper 270 cams for a Willy (higher lift), supersprint manifold and possibly a reworked TB should make something quite interesting, this is my project for the winter.
Also been talking to Ben about a longer term project to build a 1800 lump able to rev to 10,000rpm, would need, billet crank, forged rods, forged pistons, nitrided crank, MASSIVE porting, 32mm or bigger inlets, 45mm TBs at least, eletirc oil/water/power steering pumps, possible duplex cam chain. Gonna be expensive and time consuming, but in a fullystripped out valver, roll caged and well setup susspension should make an interesting track car.
Cheers, Simon
coolspot007007
ClioSport Club Member
Seat Leon Cupra
Lofty if you went for say a megane bottom end how soon would you be wanting to get it, its just im interested in exactly the same thing youve been asking about recently, and we might get a deal for 2 if we can get hold of em. I was thinking of buying any bits that i can, 32mm ports, willy uprated cams etc. before, then get head work done on a spare head. Then once eveythings sorted, installed and ready to go, swap the completed engine for the one thats in now. From what i read it seems you want to do the same.
coolspot007007
ClioSport Club Member
Seat Leon Cupra
the above goes for you too Simon Nos, or have you already sourced the bottom end?
coolspot007007
ClioSport Club Member
Seat Leon Cupra
forgot to ask does the willy have different injectors?
Sounds like a plan CoolSport, no I aint sourced a bottom end yet, Im gonna be doing the same thing, source the bottom end, replace all wearing parts, get a spare 16v, 32mm inlets, etc, etc, put it all together and swap it for the lump in my car. Gonna by using the 6-speed box Slartys got too if I can find £900.
Cheers, Simon
coolspot007007
ClioSport Club Member
Seat Leon Cupra
£900 thats just a normal 6 speed then?
Just to help you with a few of your dilemas. If you use the 1764cc block with a 93mm stroke crank (Williams) you do not need to change the starter motor, but you will have to machine the inside of the block away where the big ends rotate. Because of the extra throw on the crank the rod ends are now further from the crank centre and will hit the wall of the block. On a pucka 2.0l block there are ridges in the block to allow for this which stick out on the side hence the reason for needing the smaller bodied starter from a Williams. You do not need to change the inlet valve sizes for the engine to perform well but if you want to you can. They are no more than a std set of inlets from Renault but this still does not make them cheap. There is enough meat on the std valve seat to recut to the 32mm inlet.
