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tie rod Replacement

I've got a tool you can borrow mate, made it 10000000000000 times easier when I did mine.
 
With the proper tool it's a piece of cake, getting the boot on can be a pain though.
I found the drivers side a total arsehole and the passenger side a piece of cake?

Don't forget to have the tracking done after, you can never get it perfect by counting the number of turns on the TRE.
 
My tracking already pulls the car left so will definitely need doing. Both looked reasonable when checking them today. Seems space won't be too much of an issue but still nothing is ever easy. Thank you for all the help everyone
 
The tool makes it so much easier. I tried with a fan spanner cut in half that @dann2707 lent me but I couldn't get enough leverage on it to free them up.
 
The tool makes it so much easier. I tried with a fan spanner cut in half that @dann2707 lent me but I couldn't get enough leverage on it to free them up.
Same, tried and failed on one side. Bought the tool.

On the other, got the nut on the TRE off, angle grinder through the tie rod and unscrewed it!
 
Same, tried and failed on one side. Bought the tool.

On the other, got the nut on the TRE off, angle grinder through the tie rod and unscrewed it!

Exactly what I did.

@Louis' Just make sure when you unscrew the TRE you count how many turns it takes to come off so you've got a rough idea of where to put the new one on.
 
It's somewhere between 100 and 1000 turns, the rod is f**king huge.
I lost count, then just tracked it by eye and drove straight to the alignment place.

Wasn't a million miles out either.
 
It's somewhere between 100 and 1000 turns, the rod is f**king huge.
I lost count, then just tracked it by eye and drove straight to the alignment place.

Wasn't a million miles out either.

Eh, I'm sure mine was only like 15 turns or something 😂
 
Leave the TRE on the tie rod, angle grind the rod about half way.

Put new tie rod in, measure the amount of remaining threads between the TRE lock nut and the last thread on the rod.

Wind new TRE on until you reach the same said remaining threads.

Hope that makes sense, it does to me 😂
 
Are there any torque values I need to be tightening the tie rod to when replacing? Also, do I want to be greasing it up, or just leaving it dry under the boot?
 
i recall the torque on the nut being in the region of 40 to 45nm, but I just generally make it tight, (1 grunt tight as the landrover guys say) since most of the nuts are nyloc nowdays anyway, ball joints come pre greased, some of them have a grease nipple on the back but if it dosnt then there is no way to grease them unless you drill and tap a grease nipple into them...
 
There is a trick to getting the gaiter on to the rack. I spent hours trying the screwdrivers method with no luck at all - only ended up with cut fingers.

Right.... The trick... You fold the big end lip of the gaiter back on itself about 15 mm. You can then slide the gaiter on to the rack and then unfold the lip on to the rack, you might have to pull a little bit on the concertina part of the gaiter but it will unfold fairly easily.
This method took me 5 minutes per side if that.
 
Good boots is a must. Some places will give you this thermoplastic stuff, utter shite.

Decent rubber boot, get it warm so it's nice and flexible.
 
Right.... The trick... You fold the big end lip of the gaiter back on itself about 15 mm. You can then slide the gaiter on to the rack and then unfold the lip on to the rack, you might have to pull a little bit on the concertina part of the gaiter but it will unfold fairly easily.
This method took me 5 minutes per side if that.
I am SOOO angry at myself that I've never thought about that! I was wrestling with one on my 1.2 16v a couple of weeks ago
 
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