Tips for removing and refitting head please

[LegoHead]

I will write a guide after I have done the job as long as it all goes well.

Do I need to remove the pulleys from the camshafts when removing them? I was wondering if there were any seals behind the pulleys that you need to get to when refitting the cam shafts.

 

[Fred@BTM]

yeah pullies have to come off, seals are easy, they just push in

be careful taking the dephaser off, it will piss oil out everywhere!

oh and remove the bleed screw from the thermostat housing when you drain the coolant

 

[sideways danny]

Leave the cambelt on and use the timing/locking tools while you undo the pulleys and they will be far easier to undo. If the cam cover doesn't pop off straight away when you undo all the bolts, walk away for 5 minutes, it should just lift with spring pressure from the valve springs.

 

[Fred@BTM]

then after 5min hit it

 

[LegoHead]

ah yes. Was planning on removing the thermostat housing. Sounds like you learnt from experience? lol.

There are loads of special tools needed in the manuals. I guess i wont need the seal fitting tools or the dephaser solenoid one?

The camshaft locking tool is definitely needed then.

If anyone has them for sale let me know and I'll buy them.

I will add Thor's copper mallet to my shopping list.

 

[stevo172-RWD]

some good advice here guys

 

[Fred@BTM]

na leave the thermo housing on, no need to take it off

the "seal tools" are known as your fingers

just remove the solenoid and leave the seal alone

you need the crank pin, the "horse shoe" and the pulley tool


head settings

order

exhaust
8 4 1 5 9
7 3 2 6 10
inlet

stage 1 all to 20NM

stage 2 165deg +/- 6deg

dephaser is 100NM and exhaust is 30nm +86deg (from memory, will double check later)

 

[LegoHead]

thanks guys. Keep the tips coming!

Got the horse shoe ( a lazer one ) just worried it might not be up to the job of holding on to the cam shafts without bending when i remove/refit the pulleys.

 

[Fred@BTM]

it will bend, don't use it! you HAVE to use the pulley tool to get the pulleys off

 

[sideways danny]

thanks guys. Keep the tips coming!

Got the horse shoe ( a lazer one ) just worried it might not be up to the job of holding on to the cam shafts without bending when i remove/refit the pulleys.

dont bother with that. it will bend, and if you use it on it's own it will damage the slots in the cams

 

[sideways danny]

it will bend, don't use it! you HAVE to use the pulley tool to get the pulleys off

you can use cambelt tension as an alternative, but you have to jam the flywheel and not bother with the cam locking tools to avoid damage. Using the tools is best

 

[LegoHead]

I was wondering how the cam pulleys are kept in the correct phase relative to each other?
If you get the teeth slightly out of phase and have some slack of the timing belt between the pulleys at the top then once the locking tools are remove the pulleys will take up the slack and rotate away from each other altering the timing.

Does the cam pulley tool MOT 1509 align the pulleys correctly?



Is this a decent one to get or should i head to renault for the genuine one?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sykes-Renault...ment?hash=item53dcb54cb0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

 

[Fred@BTM]

renault tools ONLY

(simple explanation)
when you re fit the belt you have the pulleys (crank, and cams) loose, you fit the belt and set the tension, you then rotate the belt and pulleys a few times to equalise the belt tension, then fit the pulley tool and tighten up the pulleys

 

[LegoHead]

Makes sense now Fred, just want to make sure I understand every little bit of the job. Studying the renault cambelt guide at the moment.

Might have more questions on the way!

 

[calum001]

if you could do a complete guide to removing the head that would be spot on

 

[T.Trophy]

Mate I'm with Fred and Danny, you need the official tools, the quality between them and laser etc... is night and day, and no matter how thorough you are, by just using the horse shoe shaped locking tool your timing will be out!

Heres a downloadable manual for the f4r series, it's for the ph1 but the procedures for tightening the head bolts etc are the same

http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf

Steve

 

[LegoHead]

cheers Steve studying that procedure 100% now.

 

[T.Trophy]

Good stuff mate, any snags drop me a pm.

Steve

 

[jon_r]

bump. Just for me tbh.