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Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8



  Skoda Fabia VRS
Evening guys.

So some of you might have seen that I'm splitting my track car for parts, as with one hobby growing, another must be sacrificed. I'm looking into purchasing the above lens when some of the larger items sell.

Up until recently I was specifically looking at the Canon/Sigma 10-20mm lenses, but I've recently checked out the Tokina. One of the advantages I'm seeing already, is constant aperture of F2.8. I'm basically just after a very good wide angled lens for my Crop body 750D. Has anyone ever owned one of these previously, or currently? I know that the Sigma 10-20mm is rated highly (more than Canon from what I've seen), but I wondered if there are any comparisons between the Sigma and Tokina I should be aware of.

Cheers!
 
  172
It's a nice lens, nice build and highly rated.

I've got. 10-20mm sigma that I've used for a few years. It's alright, it's taken some abuse and I do rate sigma lenses personally.

A used 10-20mm sigma can be had for buttons. If you're buying new get the tokina.

What you planning on shooting?
 
  Skoda Fabia VRS
It's a nice lens, nice build and highly rated.

I've got. 10-20mm sigma that I've used for a few years. It's alright, it's taken some abuse and I do rate sigma lenses personally.

A used 10-20mm sigma can be had for buttons. If you're buying new get the tokina.

What you planning on shooting?
I've just been searching various sites, haven't come across one used Tokina yet.
MPB and the likes always have the Sigma's in stock, which is good!

Some interior shots when I'm doing vehicle shoots during this year, but mainly for landscape/Long exposure shots. Looking to broaden my batch of lenses and I feel that I've used the kit lens to it's limit (sort of) lately, so I want to push further.
 
  172
I've just been searching various sites, haven't come across one used Tokina yet.
MPB and the likes always have the Sigma's in stock, which is good!

Some interior shots when I'm doing vehicle shoots during this year, but mainly for landscape/Long exposure shots. Looking to broaden my batch of lenses and I feel that I've used the kit lens to it's limit (sort of) lately, so I want to push further.
Yeah MBP are good had many bits from them.

Tokinas do come up uses but a lot of video guys rate them for the low aperture so they tend to get kept by people who purchase.

It's a good focal length, not too much distortion if used right. I avoid cars with them though, unless it's light painting as it makes the proportions quite funny!
 
  172
272F937F-562A-4D02-88E7-EA1E12FF2A2D.jpg
Here's a 10-20mm shot when I used to have a car rig. Was great for this! Excuse the quality it's a photo of a print!
 
  Skoda Fabia VRS
I like that shot mate, good composition and the sun behind looks spot on!

That's one of the things I was worried about, the distortion and how objects/items are portrayed.
I'll more than likely just go for the Sigma lens, as with the images/types I have in mind I won't really be using F2.8 all that much.

Thanks for the tips/advice @matt123roll
 

Ay Ay Ron

ClioSport Club Member
If you can, go for the Tokina. I very nearly got one to replace my sigma 10-20 but instead changed bodies and got a Samyang 14mm.

Everyone I spoken to when I was looking at getting it said the Tokina was hands down the better lens although there is nothing wrong with the Sigma.
 
  Skoda Fabia VRS
I've spotted the Tokina brand new for £303.99 here: https://goo.gl/U8VctT
But I've not personally witnessed that website before. I'm not saying that's a dodgy site, but it does seem cheap as others seem to range from £450 upwards?
 
When I was looking for a wangle, someone on here posted a comparison of a 10-20 and the 11-16 - same picture, just different lenses.

The 11-16 was noticeably sharper across the frame.

I've been very happy with mine, I would definitely recommend them to anyone looking for a wide angle lens. They're great for landscape work (where any image distortion is not so obvious), pictures of room interiors, night-sky shots, arty shots, any pictures where you have limited room to work, etc etc.


If you have spare cash, also consider the Ssamyang 8mm F3.5 - it's a manual lens, but being super-short you can just set it to infinity focus and snap away. F3.5 is a little soft, but F5.6 and up is super-sharp across the frame (until you get to diffraction limits, of course). They're pretty cheap for the quality you get, and the 167degree (IIRC?) field of vision means you can get awesome panoramic landscapes and sky shots in one picture. I think they are crop-body use only, as otherwise you get a circle on a FF instead of filling the frame, but I wouldn't be without mine.
 
  Skoda Fabia VRS
Definitely more to think about in regards to the Tokina then, thanks to all for your input!
If my engine sells this weekend I may treat myself...if I'm allowed.
 

Scrooge

ClioSport Moderator
  E55 AMG
Probably my s**t camera lol

TBH I always shoot above f8 with it and I'm comparing it to my 50mm
 
Don't forget to check out camerapricebuster to identify the cheapest place if you are buying - it's a really useful website.


Probably my s**t camera lol

TBH I always shoot above f8 with it and I'm comparing it to my 50mm

That's interesting - I tend to never go about f9 as I find things soften a little, regardless of lens. I still have no idea how some people shoot these epic landscape shots at f22 or something, I can only assume they are using ££££ lenses with ultra-low diffraction/dispersion tendencies.
 

Lou

ClioSport Club Member
  182 & 595
I got this lens for my Sony A58. Not really tried it out properly yet but I'm off to Canada in a few weeks so hopefully get some decent use out of it.
 

Yanoo

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio Williams
I have a Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 Pro DX II, I like it. IMO it is the best UWA for APS-C cameras.
Good centre sharpness at f/2.8 but the corners are a bit blurry at wide open. Cornes become sharp above f/4. Its sweet point is at f/5.6. Focus accuracy is reliable, but the focus is not too fast. Zoom range is short, I consider this lens as a prime lens and therefore I almost always use it at 11mm. Cromatic abberation is the biggest weakness of this lens. In most cases it can be managed during post process but not always. Lens distortion at 11 mm is noticeable but also can be managed. Around 14 mm the distortion is minimal. It draws the full circle above 15 mm, so it can be used on full frame as well (whithout the lens hood or filters).
 


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