Track Rod End

[G_F]

Just a quick one, changing the track rod end on my older Clio, never done this before and i just need some advice hoe i take it off and put back on.

This is what i need to take off >>



to replace it with >>



Not really sure how i do it?!? I assume it twists off? how do you know how far to put it back on? etc etc

Any help recieved with thanks..

Gav

 

[edde]

Undo the bolt whch hold it tight and make the location of where it is ie how far down the stearing arm it is then count the number of tunrs to make it off and put the old one back on with the same number of tuns checking it matches up to the same place the old one did.

 

[G_F]

Thought as much, cheers edde.

 

[donsrno1]

yup, as edde said. I didn't count turns though - I just measure it. Very straightforward if it's not seized, but a different story completely if it is seized.

 

[Sami]

Its French, bet you its seized

 

[G_F]

seized it is aswell, tried a heat gun on it with no joy. Its not a right hand thread or any s**t like like is it? what the other option, take the whole steering arm off and put in a vice?

 

[donsrno1]

Did you manage to get the bolt that clamps it on out ok? If you got that out try putting a chissel or something in the gap and lever it open. Then spray a good amount of WD40 in there and try again. The also you can use a spanner or something on the part it's screwed on to as thats free to rotate as well, but has a bit you can hol it by with a spanner.

 

[G_F]

Yeah, got the screw out that clamps it on, ill try the wd40 route with the chissel bending... Pissing me right off now, letting my sis use the car at the minute and because i couldnt finish this off last night she blagged me into taking my cup to work today, which i just know is coming back with a problem of some kind.

 

[G_F]

This thing is not coming off, i have tried everything now...So what i am going to attempt to do is take it all off (Steering Arm) then just replace the inner track rod ( if thats what its called). this>>



Airel shot>>




I already have the outer track rod, assume i just need the inner? then just replace it all..

Any advice on how to do this appreciated.
(Haynes manual is quite a poor on this matter aswell)

 

[edde]

Just drill iot out or heat the end up massivly with a good blow gun.
Don't go trying to take the rack to pieces.

 

[G_F]

Right will give it another go tomorrow, one more thing edde, is it normal for the whole thing to be able to spin 360, the arm i mean, does it matter, or have i forked something up?

ps..where would you start drilling from...

 

[donsrno1]

Right will give it another go tomorrow, one more thing edde, is it normal for the whole thing to be able to spin 360, the arm i mean, does it matter, or have i forked something up?

ps..where would you start drilling from...

Don't worry about it spinning - they're supposed to. Best bet is plenty WD40 and try to open up the gap using a chisel or something similar. As I said if you look just at the end of the thread where the track rod end screws on to there is a bit where you can hold it with a spanner so that it doesn't rotate as you asked about above.

 

[G_F]

Cheers donsrno1, giving it one last blast tomorrow, my plan, as advised>>

Gas torch til silly temps,
try and bend the gap apart,
wd-40,
unscrew.

if all fails = mobile mechanic.

 

[donsrno1]

Have a look HERE. Most of what is said as been mentioned above but it could be usefull anyway. It's the main problem with working on these cars that everything tends to be seized and rusted. I did one of these the other week and it took me about 5 minutes as it wasn't seized at all, but I know that if it was seized I could easily spend several hours working on the bugger.

 

[TheCake]

Cheers donsrno1, giving it one last blast tomorrow, my plan, as advised>>

Gas torch til silly temps,
try and bend the gap apart,
wd-40,
unscrew.

if all fails = mobile mechanic.

One minor flaw.

WD-40 is flammable.

 

[G_F]

All good, getting a 1000 degree gas tourch on it anyhow, aslong as i dont get it on my hands i should be alright *touches wood*

 

[G_F]

Done at last, easy when you have the right tools, i was using an electric heat gun, went and bought a gas gun and boy did it get hot..



i used an angle grinder to cut down the middle to try and slack it up a bit, seemed to do the trick, after i got the thing glowing red.



prised it a part, hand turned it off, piece of piss really..

Cheers for the encouragement boys, nearly gave up on this task..

 

[donsrno1]

Cheers for the encouragement boys, nearly gave up on this task..

Nice one. I know the felling though, I think I would on occasions if it wasn't for the fact I can't afford to get anyone else in to do the work, lol.

 

[edde]

prised it a part, hand turned it off, piece of piss really..

Cheers for the encouragement boys, nearly gave up on this task..

Congratulation rust and stuck parts are a problem with cars.
Wait till you get a realy old car and try and do this.

 

[G_F]

If i have to do one again within the next year it will be too soon to be honest. I can only imagine how hard it would be to get one off if it was in a proper state, mine didnt seem to bad once it was off. Healthy amount of copper grease in there now though, so if someone has to do it again. they should make easywork of it.

 

[edde]

If i have to do one again within the next year it will be too soon to be honest. I can only imagine how hard it would be to get one off if it was in a proper state, mine didnt seem to bad once it was off. Healthy amount of copper grease in there now though, so if someone has to do it again. they should make easywork of it.

You could tell what tyre of arm it was before you started try one which is so rusted you don't know what type it is.
Best idea IMO is to duct tape the whole thing all the threads etc then paint it in underseal etc.