Trying to fit the original airbox in Mk1 Clio RSi

[BoraAk]

Hey everyone, recently joined the club. My RSi is struggling with rough idle sometimes, not always. It has an open air intake fitted which I'm not a huge fan of and starting to think that the problem is caused by this. One time the engine completely cut off while I was cruising but I realized the MAP sensor socket was coming loose, snapped it back in and continued to drive normally. But the revs still sometimes fluctuate, but it does this really randomly, some days it doesn't happen some days it does. Especially when I start the engine warmed up, the idle fluctuates for 30-40 seconds and then I'm good to go. One thing I know about is that the oil vapor hose which is supposed to be connected to the intake is just lying around by itself. Sadly I only have the original airbox but not the hoses and I assume they are just impossible to find. So basically what I'm trying to ask is that if this problem is caused by the intake. If it is how shall I solve it? Shall I custom make hoses for the original airbox? Or is there anywhere I can source oem equivalent hoses for the original airbox? Many thanks in advance!

PS: I've seen a thread 18 years ago kind of talking about the same issues and I guess the problem was one of the vacuum hoses not being plugged in to the airbox but I really don't have any clue on which hoses are supposed to go into the intake. I am looking into Haynes manual but I'm kind of a newbie so I'm giving my best trying to understand.

PS 2: Sadly I don't have a really clear picture of the intake but here it is just for reference.

 

[barnesautos]

The breather pipe off the front of the block canister should be connected , but in your case it is just laying about . This isn’t so bad as the intake isn’t getting those breather fumes , ideally it should really go to the intake or a catch can.

Some other things to have a look at are , check the distributor cap and rotor , the caps like to go green on the carbon brush and burn out.
Check the idle valve and clean it out also .

This particular type of injection setup does have a very revy engine and floaty bouncy idle ect .
Make sure the throttle cable is adjusted correctly , clip should be in just the right position to just achieve full throttle.
Make sure the butterfly is free of any gum build-up .
Cleaning with carb cleaner tends to work wonders.
Also check the vacuum pipe from the absolute pressure sensor , check that it has a restrictor in it , from memory it should have one .

 

[BoraAk]

The breather pipe off the front of the block canister should be connected , but in your case it is just laying about . This isn’t so bad as the intake isn’t getting those breather fumes , ideally it should really go to the intake or a catch can.

Some other things to have a look at are , check the distributor cap and rotor , the caps like to go green on the carbon brush and burn out.
Check the idle valve and clean it out also .

This particular type of injection setup does have a very revy engine and floaty bouncy idle ect .
Make sure the throttle cable is adjusted correctly , clip should be in just the right position to just achieve full throttle.
Make sure the butterfly is free of any gum build-up .
Cleaning with carb cleaner tends to work wonders.
Also check the vacuum pipe from the absolute pressure sensor , check that it has a restrictor in it , from memory it should have one .

Idle valve has been replaced last year and I assume it's fine. Throttle cable has been just replaced and adjusted correctly. The throttle body is in good nick, just recently inspected and cleaned. I'm starting to doubt about the MAP sensor and the vacuum hose. Because when the atmosphere pressure changes while I'm driving (through a tunnel etc.) the engine starts to bog down significantly. I put the clutch in just in case while moving, it doesn't stall but drops to around 400-500 RPM and then really struggles, give it some gas and after a while it starts to run normal after I'm out the tunnel.

Appreciate the response!