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What Oil do you guys recommend??



As above really,

Doing a service and just wondering what Oil is best for the Ph1 172??

Same goes for plugs etc?? Just use renault ones??

Cheers!!!
 
thanks for the replies, was just really wondering if there was a certain oil everyone used for the 20.16v engine.

I can get Comma motorsport 5w 50 fairly cheaply so will prob use that and just renault parts for the rest.
 
  E87 118d M Sport
whats the difference between £37 fully synthetic and £50 fully synthetic?
Higher ambient temps? what do you class as higher?
 
I use Halfords fully synth (rebranded Comma Syner-G 5-40) changed at regular and scheduled intervals does the job fine. It meets all the industry standards (ACEA A3 B3 B4 API SL SM CF and MB 229.3, VW 502 00/ VW 505 00, BMW Longlife 98) and meets and exceeds Renault's requirements.

You can buy more expensive brands with high specifications, but for me I don't see the point. It's not like it will give you more bhp nor have I heard of engine failure caused by the oil that meets the manufacturer's requirements for that specific engine plus I'm not likely to own the car long enough to notice the benefits, if any, of the protection stated on the label by using expensive oil. Even if you do a lot of track days, just change your oil more frequently, fresh cheap oil is better expensive old oil.
 

Steviant

ClioSport Club Member
  Renaultsport 220T
There is only one oil to use.

 
whats the difference between £37 fully synthetic and £50 fully synthetic?
Higher ambient temps? what do you class as higher?

Depends if the £37 one is on offer. If you get Pro S from us on an offer like that, it's as good as anything available. If you have bought some own brand oil from a high street retailer, it's going to be a hydrocracked mineral oil. Legally they can be sold as synthetics, but they are really just very modified and refined mineral oils. They are better than normal mineral oils and semi-synthetics, but they aren't as good as a true sythetic. Mobil 1 is probably the best oil available from normal retailers and that is a true sythetic, but things like Silkolene Pro S, Motul 300V, Redline and Gulf Competition are ester based so they are the top level in quality. They are more stable and better lubricants.

The ambient temp has to be quite a bit higher on average to make a real difference, something like 10C+ over what we have here. The oil temp in the engine is the important thing though
 
If you race the car, it's a great oil. But for an everyday road car........overkill and read what Motul say about road use.

Cheers
Guy
 
I use Halfords fully synth (rebranded Comma Syner-G 5-40) changed at regular and scheduled intervals does the job fine. It meets all the industry standards (ACEA A3 B3 B4 API SL SM CF and MB 229.3, VW 502 00/ VW 505 00, BMW Longlife 98) and meets and exceeds Renault's requirements.

You can buy more expensive brands with high specifications, but for me I don't see the point. It's not like it will give you more bhp nor have I heard of engine failure caused by the oil that meets the manufacturer's requirements for that specific engine plus I'm not likely to own the car long enough to notice the benefits, if any, of the protection stated on the label by using expensive oil. Even if you do a lot of track days, just change your oil more frequently, fresh cheap oil is better expensive old oil.

As long as you change the oil often enough, the cheaper stuff is fine, but it can be a false economy if you end up buying an oil for £25 and changing it twice. I just had a look at the Halfords site and the 5w-40 Fully Synthetic (hydrocracked mineral) is £34.99. We have the Motul 8100 X-Cess and that is just as good, £28.38 to you and that's before any offers. Silkolene Pro S is £46.58 and Gulf Competition is £44.99 for members of Cliosport and they are top quality ester based synthetics, good for 10k. If you change the Halfords one at 6 or 7k, the better quality oils work out cheaper.

If you have a high bhp car, a better oil can cause a small gain in power just by reducing the internal friction. Admittedly it's small, but I have heard of 15bhp gains in a 700bhp car just by changing the oil. If you need an extra 15bhp when you already have 700 is debatable though.
 
  Dodgy one
Seem to be sticking with Halfords Fully synth at the minute, Get it pretty cheap on a trade card compared to their prices on Mobil 1 and only able to get magnas**te from work.

Drop it every 6 thou which works out to be the same as sticking some mobil 1 in but leaving it in 12k instead
 
  RS RIP
@ OILMAN

Guy , what is it that Motul may be the wrong choice for everyday driving ?

My car has cams and i take it up to high revs every time ; fast road i would call it not really racing (although?;) )
I have been putting in the 300V 15W40 these last couple of years. Should i change to a different one ?

It is never tracked (yet). However with no other street traffic i thrash the %^& off of her

Cheers, Frank
 
@ OILMAN

Guy , what is it that Motul may be the wrong choice for everyday driving ?

My car has cams and i take it up to high revs every time ; fast road i would call it not really racing (although?;) )
I have been putting in the 300V 15W40 these last couple of years. Should i change to a different one ?

It is never tracked (yet). However with no other street traffic i thrash the %^& off of her

Cheers, Frank

Frank,

To be honest its fine for road use, the oil does not carry any API or ACEA specs so technically not approved for general service life, for that Motul want you to buy their 8100 range.

If you are happy with the 300v I would stick with it, 5w-40 would be the grade I go for.

Cheers

Guy
 
As long as you change the oil often enough, the cheaper stuff is fine, but it can be a false economy if you end up buying an oil for £25 and changing it twice. I just had a look at the Halfords site and the 5w-40 Fully Synthetic (hydrocracked mineral) is £34.99. We have the Motul 8100 X-Cess and that is just as good, £28.38 to you and that's before any offers. Silkolene Pro S is £46.58 and Gulf Competition is £44.99 for members of Cliosport and they are top quality ester based synthetics, good for 10k. If you change the Halfords one at 6 or 7k, the better quality oils work out cheaper.

If you have a high bhp car, a better oil can cause a small gain in power just by reducing the internal friction. Admittedly it's small, but I have heard of 15bhp gains in a 700bhp car just by changing the oil. If you need an extra 15bhp when you already have 700 is debatable though.

Renault says 2 years/12k miles and recommend Elf Excellium oil (standard OE oil) for 172/182. I only do around 6k miles a year change my oil once a year as do a lot of short journeys with only the odd blast on the weekends and my car is not highly tuned (chip + exhaust). However, if you have a highly tuned engine, cams, ITB, turbos, S/C etc then perhaps PAO/Ester based oil is required. So for me I see little benefit in spending more for PAO/Ester based oil when a fully synth hydrocracked oil as recommended by Renault will do the job.

Every now and again Halfords do offers where their fully synth can be had for £22.99 and occaisionally they do similar offer for Mobil 1, thats when I tend to buy it. £28.38 for Motul 8100 X-Cess (also hydrocracked I assume) is good but add delivery its still around £35. I understand you have a business to run and offer quality products, however, if you can get near Halford's offers for a similar product, I'll buy from you! :cheers:
 
I will always beat halfords price for branded oil, but be wary of their own oil as this is made to a low cost, you can get better for similar money.

Cheers

Guy
 


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