Wheel wax, which one...?

[Yellow Dave]

but why though, this is what I've been trying to find out.

IIRC all C1/4/5 etc are very very similar, so surely C1 could withstand indirect brake dust? therefore I could try C5 on the bodywork? I can't find what benefits one has over the other

 

[aucky]

C1 is for professional use and C5 can be used by shmucks.
Would I therefore be wrong to assume that with proper application C1 would be superior?

 

[Cliotoby]

I wouldnt say theres much difference in C5 and C1. If you leave C1 to dry accidently its no big deal. I left one section for 15 mins and it was like a thick gel, a little difficult to remove but bricks were not shat.

Im suprised they sell C5 without warning and C1 with.

C1 works on body trim really well. Not sure about C5 I wouldnt be suprised if its not the same thing.

C5 just because its supposedly heat resistant. I can just see it being a little better for the situation OP has described. Maybe Im wrong.

 

[The Seer]

I've used half my 15ml C5 bottle to do 2x 17" Focus wheels, so should get the 4 done with a 15ml bottle unless I do something wrong. you don't dilute it

I can't decide between C1 & C5 for the struts, still hoping Rob of GT is going to reply to my thread on DW

These rims on the Monaro are 19" I'm hoping the bottle will do all four? Was hoping the bottle would do more than one application, I guess not.

 

[The Seer]

I wouldnt say theres much difference in C5 and C1. If you leave C1 to dry accidently its no big deal. I left one section for 15 mins and it was like a thick gel, a little difficult to remove but bricks were not shat.

Im suprised they sell C5 without warning and C1 with.

C1 works on body trim really well. Not sure about C5 I wouldnt be suprised if its not the same thing.

C5 just because its supposedly heat resistant. I can just see it being a little better for the situation OP has described. Maybe Im wrong.

Nah, I reckon you're right I ought to give this stuff a go. I'm guessing apart from it's durability it also REALLY makes the wheels reflective with a very deep shine?

 

[The Seer]

think of it as pure alcohol. lol
http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Isopropanol_cleaning_fluid_1.html
it ensures the surface is free from any oils or solvents ready for application. I used to get it from local chemists but they're a bit funny about that sort of thing now.

I've never enjoyed cleaning wheels so this is ideal for me if it lasts longer than a year. normal wheels sealants and waxes are ok but never really last all that long. there are others comparable to C5 like the nanolex that GAlly said but never tried it. I guess it depends on the condition of the wheels and how clean you want them, and want them to stay like it. The fact that your in the detailing sub forum and your past cars I reckon this or similar products may be just for you.

Yeah, I'm not into cleaning wheels, pain in the ass!

 

[Yellow Dave]

depends on the style of the rims really, some have managed 18/19" if they are of a basic shape. are yours the 5 spokes or more intricate. the simpler the design the easier and less you'll use. Also I did inner and outer rim and spokes. I think they add a little bit of gloss, but they maintain there clean look for longer therefore give the appearance of being brighter.

But it's all in the prep. When I did mine, general wash, wheel cleaner wash, tar remover, rinse, iron remover, rinse, wipe down with diluted P1 polish, IPA wipedown. then brough in the house to dry fully for C5 application, then another hour to set as it was damp outside. A lot of effort to keep wheels clean.

 

[Alex_225]

I've used Chemical Guys Wheel Guard and must admit it's a very nice product and lasts well. Swissvax Autobhan wheel wax is also good but expensive.

To be honest though, although wheels get a tougher time than bodywork any good wax/sealant will work on them. Any of the more chemically type waxes will do nicely, Finishkare 1000P or Collinite 476/845 will go well on bodywork and wheels.

 

[Cliotoby]

Nah, I reckon you're right I ought to give this stuff a go. I'm guessing apart from it's durability it also REALLY makes the wheels reflective with a very deep shine?

no more than anything else would. Its durability that this wins at.

 

[guysy]

I have Rim Wax, tbh i dont rate it.. yet, i lightly cleaned the wheels when i first had the car, 2x coats on the front and 1 coat on the back and the wheels have been no easier to clean than normal, i cant see any beading/sheeting type action, the wheels need a very good clean (or ideally a refurb) and i think ill invest in some c5, shame its top end price, could do with some more c4 too.

 

[JD]

C5 for the struts. Or FK. Again, I refer you to my thread and the 6 Ps. Mine still bead and look clean 95% of the time.

 

[Yellow Dave]

did you do the whole lot in C5 or was some of it kept with FK? I would go with 476 as I have it already over FK. Use it on my mountain bike and seems to do a fair job. not quite the inner arches though.

 

[JD]

Wheels were meant to be refurb'd, then C5'd but I haven't had the time or desire to spend on the car since moving to London. Well apart from tuning mods.

The R8 however has C5 on the wheels and Fk on everything metal in the arches, bar the exhaust. It also has C4. Granted the thing does 50 times less miles than most cars, but it still has that "not left the showroom" finish.

 

[The Seer]

I've used up my Autobahn, the results were good the durability wasn't. After a month covering circa 1000 miles with three washes it'd worn off.

 

[The Seer]

depends on the style of the rims really, some have managed 18/19" if they are of a basic shape. are yours the 5 spokes or more intricate. the simpler the design the easier and less you'll use. Also I did inner and outer rim and spokes. I think they add a little bit of gloss, but they maintain there clean look for longer therefore give the appearance of being brighter.

But it's all in the prep. When I did mine, general wash, wheel cleaner wash, tar remover, rinse, iron remover, rinse, wipe down with diluted P1 polish, IPA wipedown. then brough in the house to dry fully for C5 application, then another hour to set as it was damp outside. A lot of effort to keep wheels clean.

Damm! That's alot of prep there Dave! I'd probably take two wheels off at a time, fair enough. But do I really need to go through the rigma of using iron remover and IPA (still chuckling about the name) ?

 

[JD]

Yes. That will be the reason your Autobahn lasted such a short period of time. Autobahn is very good.

 

[Yellow Dave]

unfortunately mark with something like C5 it's all in the prep. have a quick look at the pics in the below thread at how much additional iron and tar was removed after a thorough clean
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=253453
anything left on and the C5 won't bond, applying the product isn't the difficult part which is why I think those that aren't too bothered and don't put in the effort haven't seen the results

 

[The Seer]

Yes. That will be the reason your Autobahn lasted such a short period of time. Autobahn is very good.

Well it's all gone now, can't say I'd buy an more of it. If serious wheel prep is neede then C5 it is.

 

[The Seer]

unfortunately mark with something like C5 it's all in the prep. have a quick look at the pics in the below thread at how much additional iron and tar was removed after a thorough clean
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=253453
anything left on and the C5 won't bond, applying the product isn't the difficult part which is why I think those that aren't too bothered and don't put in the effort haven't seen the results

Cheers Dave, so can I get away with using SRP to polish the wheels along with Iron X?

 

[JD]

"Serious prep" is necessary on all products.