The only trouble is you'll probably need to ditch the efi module and buy a full standalone ecu that can control boost to achieve the 300 bhp mark? or would you go about it by changing the actuator spring? on a garrett unit its probably alot easier that way tbh, on the chinese turbo's half of them you cant even open up the actuator to change the spring , and i cant seem to find an aftermarket actuator that would definately fit , im having the same dilemmas on upping the boost on my current setup, trying to weigh up if its worth forking out for the aem fic 8 with boost control or just go for a slightly larger turbo like the one you used there to achieve around 250ish bhp, you definately haven't sacrificed any lag on that setup from the smaller turbo
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Which turbo to pick
- Thread starter Garya88
- Start date
The only trouble is you'll probably need to ditch the efi module and buy a full standalone ecu that can control boost to achieve the 300 bhp mark? or would you go about it by changing the actuator spring? on a garrett unit its probably alot easier that way tbh, on the chinese turbo's half of them you cant even open up the actuator to change the spring , and i cant seem to find an aftermarket actuator that would definately fit , im having the same dilemmas on upping the boost on my current setup, trying to weigh up if its worth forking out for the aem fic 8 with boost control or just go for a slightly larger turbo like the one you used there to achieve around 250ish bhp, you definately haven't sacrificed any lag on that setup from the smaller turbo
Clio 172 ph2
Yeah agree with what your saying if I had the funds then I would go all out and buy most of the things I want for the car but just at this moment in time I don’t lol.
But yes in the long term I will be making the car the best all round handling,performance, and just in general an all round capable car.
But main thing just now is getting the car running fine with the new turbo then take it from there.
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To be fair, I've said to Gary as well, that turbo is too big, doesn't spool anywhere near early enough and oversized for the power it's making.
This is with a genuine 2560 on efi module.
R3k1355
ClioSport Club Member
Also that T28 you bought is a smaller turbo than the one on there, but they usually get on song around 3000rpm so a good several hundred rpm sooner than the old one.
Fit a manual boost controller then?
Fit a manual boost controller then?
like i said you need a piggyback or standalone ecu that has the availability for a boost solenoid so the ecu can actually recognise you are bleeding off air to make more boost , with the aem fic 6 it only recognises the wastegate pressure, the higher boost kits at ED come with the aem fic 8 piggyback and boost solenoid, so that as you say, can just add a manual boost controller
edit: the solenoid acts as a boost controller rather, you wouldnt be able to add a cheap manual boost controller, youd need an electronic boost controller that can control boost by rpm and they are in the realm of £300+ anyways
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Clio 172 ph2
Wait a min am getting confused are yous saying I need a boost controller to run the new turbo that I got?? Because the plan I had was to fit the turbo send it down to Chris and get it mapped then back home. Or do you mean if I want to achieve more power ie 300bhp?
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Clio 172 ph2
Thanks Carl lol. A sent you a text mate have a look wen u have a min
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You wont need a boost controller to run your new turbo, the efi boost control module can only run a turbo that has a wastegate pressure of up to 12 psi, for your end goal of 300bhp you are going to need more than 12 psi , and therefore need a manual boost controller to up the boost past 12 psi, so you'll need a piggyback or standalone ecu that has full boost control, nobody is trying to spend your money for you thats a strange conclusion.
Robbie Corbett
ClioSport Club Member
You don't need
You don't need an ecu with boost control at all?
You need an ecu/setup which is able to accurately measure boost pressure and control the fuel/ignition timing based upon that boost pressure. Boost control can be done by the ecu or externally.
I prefer to map with the ecu controlling boost as it makes the process faster, however for end use an external electronic boost controller will achieve the same thing.
I'd personally go with a megasquirt piggyback as they are so easy and cheap, failing that something like the ME or better. But you will need nothing to run your new turbo other than a MAP.
You don't need an ecu with boost control at all?
You need an ecu/setup which is able to accurately measure boost pressure and control the fuel/ignition timing based upon that boost pressure. Boost control can be done by the ecu or externally.
I prefer to map with the ecu controlling boost as it makes the process faster, however for end use an external electronic boost controller will achieve the same thing.
I'd personally go with a megasquirt piggyback as they are so easy and cheap, failing that something like the ME or better. But you will need nothing to run your new turbo other than a MAP.
Indeed, as i said you could do it with an electronic boost controller that could control boost by rpm, you couldnt use a cheap mechanical boost controller without an ecu capable of boost control though. And i am yet to find an electronic boost controller for under £300 they are bloody expensive
edit: sorry i meant an ecu that is able to correctly measure what boost is happening when and control fi timing like you said
How would you personally go about wanting to up the boost from 7 psi to 10psi with an aem f/ic 6 , electronic boost controller or just aftermarket wastegate actuator with a 10 psi spring and map? or just whole new piggyback / full ecu together that supports boost control?
Robbie Corbett
ClioSport Club Member
It honestly depends on the build. I've had people that were over the moon with a manual boost valve for £18, happier in fact than many people who have spend hours trying to set up an ebc.
For such low boost, and if you are on a budget I would use a 7psi (or there abouts) spring and a manual (but good) valve. The rough rule of thumb is that your spring should be more than half of your target boost pressure. So don't use a 7psi spring when your looking for 20+psi of boost.
If your on less of a budget:
I quite like the electronic boost controllers from turbo smart and AEM, I've had a few problems with some of the older and cheaper Gizzmo units however I've been told they are much improved of late.
Nothing beats ECU controlled boost though, so if your ecu supports closed loop boost with various corrections for throttle and speed etc then I would 100% use it over an external controller.
For example it often gives you access to features like boost by gear, boost by TPS angle etc which can make cruising with a small turbo simpler while alleviating traction issues. If your ecu does not support it (never used an AEM ecu), but your car is performing well I would NOT be upgrading to a different ecu just for boost control.
For such low boost, and if you are on a budget I would use a 7psi (or there abouts) spring and a manual (but good) valve. The rough rule of thumb is that your spring should be more than half of your target boost pressure. So don't use a 7psi spring when your looking for 20+psi of boost.
If your on less of a budget:
I quite like the electronic boost controllers from turbo smart and AEM, I've had a few problems with some of the older and cheaper Gizzmo units however I've been told they are much improved of late.
Nothing beats ECU controlled boost though, so if your ecu supports closed loop boost with various corrections for throttle and speed etc then I would 100% use it over an external controller.
For example it often gives you access to features like boost by gear, boost by TPS angle etc which can make cruising with a small turbo simpler while alleviating traction issues. If your ecu does not support it (never used an AEM ecu), but your car is performing well I would NOT be upgrading to a different ecu just for boost control.
Robbie Corbett
ClioSport Club Member
Remember also that the fewer the changes while on the dyno, the better or cheaper the tune will be.
Changing springs on a car with a red hot turbo is a chore, as is constantly hopping out to tweak a manual valve. I would say that a good EBC saves the tuner 20mins or more over a 2 hour session which in turn allows the tuner to spend the extra time tweaking things which often get overlooked due to a lack of time such as transient fueling and cruise.
Changing springs on a car with a red hot turbo is a chore, as is constantly hopping out to tweak a manual valve. I would say that a good EBC saves the tuner 20mins or more over a 2 hour session which in turn allows the tuner to spend the extra time tweaking things which often get overlooked due to a lack of time such as transient fueling and cruise.
