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Why cant i get camber??

Car  clio 182
Hi folks,

the issue is basically i cant get camber, well enough anyway!

My current spec is - clio 182 (cup pack)

Raceland coilovers ( :eek: i know, i know, but they do me fine on track just now)
Eibach camber bolts (set at full negative camber)
Eibach 25mm hubcentric spacers
ET37 15inch OZ superleggera's

Now when i had my aligment done last time, it was running standard toe, camber etc with a bit more castor. Since adding the camber bolts and spacers we set the bolts to 'full' negative camber and it is still at the standard set up?!?

Looking at Chrispy's project thread he has serious camber with the spacers and bolts but my tires are out past the arches now! It doing my head in!

Anyone have any ideas?
 
Top, the thing that baffles me is it seems I have the exact same set up as chrispy yet the results are totally different?
 
Oh yea sorry, ast top mounts as well.

The camber bolts don't do too much, but it still should be over standard which it isn't. It's totally baffled me!
 
On my 1.2 I had to bend the abs clips so the hub can go back further. Try it if you haven't already!
 
If that's the case fred there is something far wrong fred, is there anything that, if fitted wrong, would cause this?
 
are you pushing on the hub (with the wheel off) when rotating the camber bolt? lower strut bolt has to be loose too
 
Yea, I fitted them at my place but had them checked by clark motorsport whrn the geo was done and they are correct. It seems like I needed all the camber just to get to standard levels?
 
Right, here we go....

so, with all the above fitted it sits like this...

005-4.jpg

006-4.jpg


The top mounts are currently set like this (excuse the dirt/mess)...

007-4.jpg


So wheel off, you can see the spacer here...

008-4.jpg

009-3.jpg


How the camber bolt is fitted, max camber, i had to grind off the standard camber bits, i changed them as they are shocking, the washer just bends when you try adjust it!...

010-2.jpg

011-3.jpg

013-3.jpg


Looking up into the strut....

014-4.jpg


Camber bolt, looks like the correct one and fits perfectly...

015-4.jpg

016-3.jpg


i then too the Bottom bolt of and then on to the AST top mounts....

018-3.jpg

019-3.jpg


coilover out....

023-4.jpg


How the top mount sits on the coilover....

022-4.jpg

021-4.jpg


Lower arms....(poly bushed:cool:)

026-4.jpg


where the coilover attaches to the hub....

027-4.jpg


and all the parts together!

028-4.jpg


So....What have i done wrong?

I appreciate all the help :approve:

P.S all those pics make my car look rusty :dapprove: need to get the paint out!
 
My guess is that the bolt in the bottom hole of the damper is not sitting properly as you can see it has been filed out for some reason.

The bolt needs to sit here...

028-4.jpg
 
Yeah that bottom hole is knackered - it looks like someones bought the wrong coilovers (cup or non cup packed) and tried to fit them to one with different bolt spacing

It's not even in line with the old hole!

I'd bin the coilovers and get some new ones
 
They were bought brand new for the cup spacing, came like that? If thats the case then they are going back to K tec!
 
When you have it jacked up, lossen both bolts on the strut, youll need a mate, grab the disc and force it with your hands to its got negative camber. then get ur mate to tighten the bolts back up while its being held in palce.

I only managed to get -1.15 on my H&R's. Thats after multiple attempts and £100's spent on allignments.
 
Ha ha, yea they are bad, its been sitting since its last outing at knockhill though!

So....any other opinions?

Would you need to slacken the track rod ends when adjusting camber as well? I don't think you do?
 
No, but the tracking will probably need adjusting afterwards. Can the bottom bolt be fix in the position I said above because if it can't then it's unlikely you will be able to get any additional negative camber, if it does you need to get it to sit in that position whilst you adjust the camber bolt.
 
No,and those holes are fubard,whats happened around the top hole?

Tracking will need to done every time you move anything.
 
The top hole is elongated as standard and the 2 bottom holes comes like that as standard as well, i have not drilled or cut any extra holes. The marks around the top holes are just where i buffed off the original 'camber washer' holders, so its just a bit shiny. The original camber washer/bolts that came with the coilovers are like putty, they just bend, hence why i have fitted the eibach ones.
 
i think it is Raceland's cheap way of supplying cup and none cup spacing? thats what i always presumed?
 
'Raceland things' pmsl! i know, and they will get changed but between the dephaser needing done and the gearbox being ill its gone down the list of things to do.....
 
Hankook RS2's and ET37 wheels mate.

Every picture i can find of Raceland coilovers only have one bolt hole! :S
 
It came out wrong,but you know what I mean.

I do indded, and i would say the same! i only bought them as the suspension on the car was buggered when i bought it and i was skint!

They are pretty good though for the money, held up well on 5 trackdays now!
 
Ktec do the same with making their non cup coilovers fit cups. They just cut away another hole.

I'm interested in knowing if this is an ok thing to do as I'm thinking of buying some bilsteins and either getting them machined by the suppliers or myself.
 
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