Would any of these work?

[bigfella2]

I have deleted A/C using the WRC method but i have decided to get rid of the hydraulic PAS and go for EPAS on my 182. But cup set-ups are few and far between and only uses the 75 amp alt which works fine, but with the EPAS using more current it seems wiser to retain the 110 amp alternator, also the PMS PAS delete seems expensive at £100, even though it is a nice piece of engineering. So i had a bit of a think how to this on a budget, so i have mocked up a couple ideas using purely 182 parts, even though i have modified the top bracket with an angle grinder.

First idea using the WRC Saab bottom pulley. Both would be used with an adjustable tie rod to tension the belt (where the tie wraps are).

2nd idea looks like a modified cup set-up, but the distance from the engine pulley to alt seems a bit on the long side.

Do either of theses look safe/reliable, what do you guys think, sorry my garage is such a tip. James

 

[bloke]

tensioner will be a bit on the long side for my liking. will probably flex and also the idler on the first one is a bit big ?

 

[bigfella2]

The idler on the first is actually the Pas pump pulley, it was just for mock up purposes. The Saab one on the WRC delete is smaller and that's what would be used. The engine in the pic is scrap.

 

[Vaughan]

Water pump spins in different directions. I expect it's only efficient in one direction.

 

[JamesBryan]

Water pump spins in different directions. I expect it's only efficient in one direction.

Eh, they're spinning the same way. Anti-clockwise ?

 

[Vaughan]

Just checking... carry on etc. ?

 

[TirelessEnigma]

You can't fit the alternator like that. It won't clear what's in front of it. Like the front crossmember and rad etc

 

[TirelessEnigma]

What you can do is modify the original alternator bracket by chopping bits off. With enough modification you will be able to swing the original alternator right down. Then can a bracket to allow you to adjust the tension. You will probably need to also make a notch in the crossmember. I did. I just did it this way to delete ac. It should work on yours just using the crank pulley, water pump and alternator

 

[bloke]

You can't fit the alternator like that. It won't clear what's in front of it. Like the front crossmember and rad etc

think that's only about an inch out from where it normally is, as long as it's on the original pivot point there is loads of room for it.

 

[TirelessEnigma]

I just had a look. Yeah it will fit like that.

The bottom picture version isn't ideal. The belt won't have much purchase on the water pump....

 

[TirelessEnigma]

Swinging the alternator down like I suggested won't give much purchase on the water pump either. Your top photo looks the best way to go without buying custom parts.

 

[bigfella2]

Yeah the alternator does look to be sticking out far, but has been mentioned its in roughly the same place as usual, just looks odd with the Pas pump gone. Does the top one look ok, because I would hate to lose the belt due to been a Skin flint.
Cheers for the input, a bit new to the Clio scene, been a dubber all my life, but don't hold it against me.

 

[TirelessEnigma]

Looking at this again. It looks like you won't be able to tension the belt properly by moving the alternator

 

[bloke]

Waterpump will be fine and it will tension ok, you just start with a belt that's a snug fit to begin with.