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225 engine to clio gearbox.

nikstar

ClioSport Club Member
Car  172 Cup
Can someone tell me exactly what machining needs done to get a 225 engine block to fit the clio 1*2 gearbox, I have searched and found plenty reference to the work required but no definitive answer. Ideally come photos would be good too. Cheers
 
I "think" you need to speak to Owen.s as I'm quite sure he has done this, what is it with people in the northeast and boosting clios lol
 
Or AndyRg on here, he's carried out the conversion too. Lewis Taylor may also have some photo's as he was doing a conversion at one point.

Either way this place will have the info, theres a few others kicking around too that have done the work.
 
Put the two blocks side by side and just drill and tap it where the holes are on the 172 block. Or just use the 172 block and put the Megane internals in it and head on.
 
How long will a 1*2 box last with a 225 engine assuming you're sympathetic and the box has been rebuilt?
 
Is there any reason why you wouldn't sooner just drop in a set of forged rods and pistons to your 172 engine to drop the cr?

As for gearboxes, it's dependant on how you drive it.
 
Is there any reason why you wouldn't sooner just drop in a set of forged rods and pistons to your 172 engine to drop the cr?

As for gearboxes, it's dependant on how you drive it.

An just looking at options mate, if i replace rods and pistons will i still need a megane head?
 
An just looking at options mate, if i replace rods and pistons will i still need a megane head?

No, you just need the rods and pistons and then either a 172 or 197 head will go on the top quite happily. (197 inlet is better IMHO)
 
Just buy a rod and forged piston kit for turbo application. Seems pointless buying a used Megane engine just for the internals which are already available off the shelf.
 
Just buy a rod and forged piston kit for turbo application. Seems pointless buying a used Megane engine just for the internals which are already available off the shelf.

Especially as the rods in the megane are still quite weak anyway and the pistons arent forged.

Another option if you want a low boost one is simply the standard 172 engine with an MWM head gasket, thats what Mike from MWM has done on his brothers clio, totally standard engine other than the thicker gasket, and it goes like snot with a turbo hung off the back of it, you can still see 260bhp/250ftlbs that way which is about as far as the standard 172 rods are good for.
 
What maximum boost can you put through it running the NWM head gasket Chip ?

Saves a hell of a lot of hassle going down that route than pulling the bottom end apart.
 
What maximum boost can you put through it running the NWM head gasket Chip ?

Saves a hell of a lot of hassle going down that route than pulling the bottom end apart.

Depends on the size of the turbo mate, there isnt a direct correlation between boost pressure and cylinder pressure as it depends on the VE of the engine which in turn depends on the turbo size etc.

However, around 12psi or so is a good ballpark to aim for.

You'll be able to make the same power and torque that way as when they used to use a gasket not quite as thick and a 197 head to drop the CR a bit as well, in fact the CR on the new gasket is actually slightly lower so you should be able to run slightly more if you really pushed it, but personally I would still stop at 260bhp/250lbft or there abouts.
 
To be honest guys i would onky be looking to run around the 240bhp, but want it to be reliable as i usually do nurburgring once a year and will be doing more trackdays. Chip what management system would you recommend ?
 
To be honest guys i would onky be looking to run around the 240bhp, but want it to be reliable as i usually do nurburgring once a year and will be doing more trackdays. Chip what management system would you recommend ?

For 240bhp I would just use a thicker head gasket and fit some fresh rings on the bottom end and ARP bolts while its apart.
Management wise, it really doesnt matter much, whatever your mapper wants to use, Omex/Emerald/Mtech/Adaptronic are all good solid budget options for example, but loads of others too.

My personal favourite is Autronic like I have on my Mk1, but its a bit on the pricey side, in fact it was twice the price secondhand that my Mtech on the ph1 turbo was new, lol
 
For 240bhp I would just use a thicker head gasket and fit some fresh rings on the bottom end and ARP bolts while its apart.
Management wise, it really doesnt matter much, whatever your mapper wants to use, Omex/Emerald/Mtech/Adaptronic are all good solid budget options for example, but loads of others too.

My personal favourite is Autronic like I have on my Mk1, but its a bit on the pricey side, in fact it was twice the price secondhand that my Mtech on the ph1 turbo was new, lol

I feel a plan brewing might just turbo standard engine run at low boost then pick up another 1*2 engine and rebuild that with forged internals when i have spare cash.
 
I feel a plan brewing might just turbo standard engine run at low boost then pick up another 1*2 engine and rebuild that with forged internals when i have spare cash.
Exactly the same story as mine.
Although I did run an overboost of nearly 2 bar on the standard engine for a while but that bent the rods. Lol.
 
Chip I see you used the dephaser on your build thread, some of the other turbo builds use a fixed pully, just wondering if there's any benefit either way?
 
I'm a fan of the dephaser, means I can run more advance off boost in the mid range to make it more responsive but then I can turn it off again and lose overlap on boost to drop egts.

can see the appeal in losing it though and having one less thing to go wrong.
 
Mines still going strong (touch wood) after 1 track day and about 2k miles of testing.

This yours?
DSCF2108.webp
 
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