172 C.U.P. (Complete and Utter Poo)

Polynesian · Friday at 5:51 PM

Major progress (to me at least). The engine bay looks so much better.
As ever a few challenges so I’ll post later with a couple of questions, grateful for any help CS peeps.
For now, how much better does this look- fresh coolant bottle, hoses, a radiator that’s a rectangle? Brilliant!

Polynesian · Friday at 10:39 PM

Ok, so a bit more detail:

Replaced all coolant hoses with MTC silicon hoses and stainless hi grip clamps. The two narrow bore hoses that link to the heater are poorly specified vs factory hoses as they T pieces that connect them are too long. Took off enough from each to make them fit properly. Fitted. New coolant header tank.

Fitted a new Nissens radiator and A/C rad and drier. I used new seals with a little PAG oil on them for the A/c connections and put 30ml of PAG oil into the condenser and 10ml into the drier. New rubber bumpers on the bottom of the rad. Cleaned and reused my existing fan.

Anywhere I saw rust I rubbed it down and treated it.

50/50 Renault D coolant and distilled water mix. Bled the system which took a while, eventually when the fan kicked in the coolant burped in the tank and the level settled. I’ll keep an eye on it but I was really careful with the bleeding and I think it’s all good.

Here’s where I need some help:

Vibratechnics gearbox mount. Honestly, I don’t know how people have the cheek to sell expensive parts that simply don’t fit. There are quite a few threads (now that I’m looking) about this on CS. The mount does not fit. The central spindle doesn’t slip through the centre of the vibratechnics mount. And, the new mount requires that you use their new longer bolts to either side. That means removing the plate that the mount sits in your takeout the Renault bolts. That would have been ok, but when removing it I sheared one of the two bolts that hold it to the body. Super fucked off about that. I think I have enough thread showing that I will be able to get out, but again a quick job becomes a ball ache. I would not recommend the vibratechnics gearbox mount, and I haven’t even driven the car with it yet. I mean, I can’t.

Second thing: I noticed a small electrical connector that has a missing wire. Can anyone identify it? For some reason CS posts my photos above the text, so the picture will be back at the top of the post. Thanks if you know what it is/ what I can do about it.

It does feel good to have a clean new cooling system and to be able to gas and use a/c now! One more step forwards. Some manly pics to follow to show what a state it was in when I started in this job!

Polynesian · Friday at 10:45 PM

I also replaced the bonnet release, and used new stainless fittings where appropriate. Just trying to neaten it up and extend its life properly!
Looks at the state of that rad. The condenser had dragged through it and was hanging completely out of place. No wonder it lost the gas…

hopgop1 · Saturday at 12:11 AM

Polynesian said:
View attachment 1775675 View attachment 1775676Ok, so a bit more detail:

Replaced all coolant hoses with MTC silicon hoses and stainless hi grip clamps. The two narrow bore hoses that link to the heater are poorly specified vs factory hoses as they T pieces that connect them are too long. Took off enough from each to make them fit properly. Fitted. New coolant header tank.

Fitted a new Nissens radiator and A/C rad and drier. I used new seals with a little PAG oil on them for the A/c connections and put 30ml of PAG oil into the condenser and 10ml into the drier. New rubber bumpers on the bottom of the rad. Cleaned and reused my existing fan.

Anywhere I saw rust I rubbed it down and treated it.

50/50 Renault D coolant and distilled water mix. Bled the system which took a while, eventually when the fan kicked in the coolant burped in the tank and the level settled. I’ll keep an eye on it but I was really careful with the bleeding and I think it’s all good.

Here’s where I need some help:

Vibratechnics gearbox mount. Honestly, I don’t know how people have the cheek to sell expensive parts that simply don’t fit. There are quite a few threads (now that I’m looking) about this on CS. The mount does not fit. The central spindle doesn’t slip through the centre of the vibratechnics mount. And, the new mount requires that you use their new longer bolts to either side. That means removing the plate that the mount sits in your takeout the Renault bolts. That would have been ok, but when removing it I sheared one of the two bolts that hold it to the body. Super fucked off about that. I think I have enough thread showing that I will be able to get out, but again a quick job becomes a ball ache. I would not recommend the vibratechnics gearbox mount, and I haven’t even driven the car with it yet. I mean, I can’t.

Second thing: I noticed a small electrical connector that has a missing wire. Can anyone identify it? For some reason CS posts my photos above the text, so the picture will be back at the top of the post. Thanks if you know what it is/ what I can do about it.

It does feel good to have a clean new cooling system and to be able to gas and use a/c now! One more step forwards. Some manly pics to follow to show what a state it was in when I started in this job!

From memory, I'm sure that missing wire is how it's supposed to be, as weird as that sounds.

Brigsy · Saturday at 10:11 AM

Fyi - Type d coolant is ready mixed, not concentrate so worth checking its not too diluted at 50/50.

Matt Cup · Saturday at 10:50 AM

How did you find the heater matrix pipe replacement?

Polynesian · Saturday at 11:05 AM

Brigsy said:
Fyi - Type d coolant is ready mixed, not concentrate so worth checking it’s not too diluted at 50/50.

Arse! Literally I do something carefully and I mess it up. I’ll rectify this asap. Thanks for calling it out.

Polynesian · Saturday at 11:08 AM

Matt Cup said:
How did you find the heater matrix pipe replacement?

The original clips are really difficult to release. I used pliers designed for electrical connectors, and just released the tension in the clips and gradually wiggled them off. A bit of silicon spray under the original hose helped.

The main issue is, if you’re replacing with silicon hoses, trimming the connection between the two heater matrix hoses so they fit. I trimmed the T pieces between them and also one end, to level them up.

Polynesian · Saturday at 11:13 AM

Also, anyone have one of these spare, passenger side, mondial blue?

Brigsy · Saturday at 12:01 PM

Fuel line pliers work well for releasing the heater hose fittings. Mine were a nightmare as leaked when removed/refitted, i ended up changing the o rings to get a good seal.

ex-Chinese Dave · Saturday at 12:40 PM

Polynesian said:
View attachment 1775725Also, anyone have one of these spare, passenger side, mondial blue?

I've asked someone breaking on eBay...i'll let you know what the reply is.

ex-Chinese Dave · Saturday at 12:41 PM

Right, he said he may have some.

Renault clio 172 cup (Breaking only) | eBay UK

This listing is for a Renault Clio 172 Cup. Please note that this listing is for the purpose of breaking only, and not for the sale of the entire vehicle. The Clio 172 Cup is a popular car that is known for its reliable performance and sleek exterior design. If you are in need of specific car...

www.ebay.co.uk

Polynesian · Saturday at 12:46 PM

ex-Chinese Dave said:
Right, he said he may have some.

Renault clio 172 cup (Breaking only) | eBay UK

This listing is for a Renault Clio 172 Cup. Please note that this listing is for the purpose of breaking only, and not for the sale of the entire vehicle. The Clio 172 Cup is a popular car that is known for its reliable performance and sleek exterior design. If you are in need of specific car...

www.ebay.co.uk

Cheers- that’s a big help!

16v_paddy · Saturday at 2:10 PM

Polynesian said:
View attachment 1775725Also, anyone have one of these spare, passenger side, mondial blue?

I'm going to pick up some bits from someone that's breaking one later today, I can ask for you

Polynesian · Saturday at 2:20 PM

16v_paddy said:
I'm going to pick up some bits from someone that's breaking one later today, I can ask for you

Amazing- thank you. I need a few parts but this would be a great help.

16v_paddy · Saturday at 6:20 PM

Polynesian said:
Amazing- thank you. I need a few parts but this would be a great help.

He's got those roof trims, it's also a Cup with air con if that's any help
Here's his FB profile

Polynesian · Saturday at 6:37 PM

16v_paddy said:
He's got those roof trims, it's also a Cup with air con if that's any help
Here's his FB profile

View attachment 1775755

Thanks Paddy, brilliant!

Polynesian · Sunday at 9:08 PM

The car didn’t start very easily for the coolant bleed, and now won’t start at all. It turns over fine. As I cleaned down some of the filthiest filth from the block when I had the rad out I’m guessing it’s mostly to be the crank position sensor a bit moist? Will be able to get my hands down there to unclip and spray with electrical connector cleaner, without removing a load of parts?
Hoping it’s going to be this easy…

Matt Cup · Sunday at 9:12 PM

Polynesian said:
The car didn’t start very easily for the coolant bleed, and now won’t start at all. It turns over fine. As I cleaned down some of the filthiest filth from the block when I had the rad out I’m guessing it’s mostly to be the crank position sensor a bit moist? Will be able to get my hands down there to unclip and spray with electrical connector cleaner, without removing a load of parts?
Hoping it’s going to be this easy…

Just remove the airbox, that’ll give you plenty of space to get to the cps.

Polynesian · 2026-02-02T17:43:48+0000

Car is running again, all good on that front and battery back on my ctek. But, how the hell do I get this snapped bolt out?

I’ve tried locking pliers, heat, wurth rust-off to seep into the threads and now dremelled a groove into it and tried to undo it. Nothing.

I don’t have the equipment or skill to weld a bolt into it. I’m pretty sure I put the bolt under stress with the gearbox mount raised too far on the jack, and that may mean the snapped part of the bolt is really stuck in the body. Please does anyone have a helpful suggestion?

Louis · 2026-02-02T17:59:03+0000

Polynesian said:
Car is running again, all good on that front and battery back on my ctek. But, how the hell do I get this snapped bolt out?

I’ve tried locking pliers, heat, wurth rust-off to seep into the threads and now dremelled a groove into it and tried to undo it. Nothing.

I don’t have the equipment or skill to weld a bolt into it. I’m pretty sure I put the bolt under stress with the gearbox mount raised too far on the jack, and that may mean the snapped part of the bolt is really stuck in the body. Please does anyone have a helpful suggestion?

View attachment 1776009

Angle grind the captive out from the wheel arch then either rivnut or nut and bolt it.

16v_paddy · 2026-02-02T18:04:49+0000

I'd heat it up and also buy this set to get it out

Stud Extractor Remover Socket Set 6 8 10 12mm Stud Extracting Remover Tool Kit | eBay UK

Stud Extractor Set for the safe removal of manifold/exhaust type Studs. Could also be used for snapped bolts providing you still have enough thread/bolt to grip. Type: Stud Extractor. 1 x 4Pcs Stud Extractor Set.

ebay.us

Matthew_ · 2026-02-02T21:32:12+0000

Polynesian said:
Car is running again, all good on that front and battery back on my ctek. But, how the hell do I get this snapped bolt out?

I’ve tried locking pliers, heat, wurth rust-off to seep into the threads and now dremelled a groove into it and tried to undo it. Nothing.

I don’t have the equipment or skill to weld a bolt into it. I’m pretty sure I put the bolt under stress with the gearbox mount raised too far on the jack, and that may mean the snapped part of the bolt is really stuck in the body. Please does anyone have a helpful suggestion?

View attachment 1776009

In the past I've used a tool like this and it's worked to get the odd snapped bolt out. Might be worth a shot.

https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/all-hand-tools/laser-impact-stud-extractor-1%2F2in-drive-121932.html?gclsrc=aw.ds&&_$ja=tsid:%7Ccid:17363835999%7Cagid:%7Ctid:%7Ccrid:%7Cnw:x%7Crnd:2653612361462251840%7Cdvc:m%7Cadp:%7Cmt:%7Cloc:1007326&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17366425846&gbraid=0AAAAADrJx6xsDaenmpW-e0l8nHsaXka63&gclid=CjwKCAiAs4HMBhBJEiwACrfNZRizV7-mCYkRSP4QYiSGQLcQitu1m95wNe96IdAryUOy_oXk4zHLyRoC0mwQAvD_BwE

Polynesian · 2026-02-03T15:59:16+0000

While I wait for bits to sort the gearbox mount, my a/c guy had a gap so came to charge the system up. He did that, and the compressor works, the a/c pipes are cold but there’s only hot air inside… it’s a known issue with a cable tie fix apparently, but all the links to the solution on CS are 404 not found.

Can anyone link me to a guide to this cable tie fix? Thanks!

Ant1 · 2026-02-03T16:41:03+0000

Polynesian said:
While I wait for bits to sort the gearbox mount, my a/c guy had a gap so came to charge the system up. He did that, and the compressor works, the a/c pipes are cold but there’s only hot air inside… it’s a known issue with a cable tie fix apparently, but all the links to the solution on CS are 404 not found.

Can anyone link me to a guide to this cable tie fix? Thanks!

Probably mashed the heater control gear. common issue - search for 'heater blows hot air', it's covered all the time.

Basically you want to get down in the drivers footwell, on the side of the centre console are 2 motors, one controls temperature, one controls air direction. you need to remove the metal plate and motors, put a cable tie or something around the broken cog, refit everything, and bob's your mother's brother. It's about 6-8 screws i think.

hopgop1 · 2026-02-03T16:50:47+0000

Polynesian said:
While I wait for bits to sort the gearbox mount, my a/c guy had a gap so came to charge the system up. He did that, and the compressor works, the a/c pipes are cold but there’s only hot air inside… it’s a known issue with a cable tie fix apparently, but all the links to the solution on CS are 404 not found.

Can anyone link me to a guide to this cable tie fix? Thanks!

If you have the link and it's the old format, take the thread number from the link, e.g. 853147 and stick it on the end of https://cliosport.net/threads/ , it'll work.

Polynesian · 2026-02-03T17:21:11+0000

Ant1 said:
Probably mashed the heater control gear. common issue - search for 'heater blows hot air', it's covered all the time.

Basically you want to get down in the drivers footwell, on the side of the centre console are 2 motors, one controls temperature, one controls air direction. you need to remove the metal plate and motors, put a cable tie or something around the broken cog, refit everything, and bob's your mother's brother. It's about 6-8 screws i think.

Thanks, that’s the plan. One step forward and two steps back with this car!

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