172 C.U.P. (Complete and Utter Poo)

[Polynesian]

Major progress (to me at least). The engine bay looks so much better.
As ever a few challenges so I’ll post later with a couple of questions, grateful for any help CS peeps.
For now, how much better does this look- fresh coolant bottle, hoses, a radiator that’s a rectangle? Brilliant!

 

[Polynesian]

Ok, so a bit more detail:

Replaced all coolant hoses with MTC silicon hoses and stainless hi grip clamps. The two narrow bore hoses that link to the heater are poorly specified vs factory hoses as they T pieces that connect them are too long. Took off enough from each to make them fit properly. Fitted. New coolant header tank.

Fitted a new Nissens radiator and A/C rad and drier. I used new seals with a little PAG oil on them for the A/c connections and put 30ml of PAG oil into the condenser and 10ml into the drier. New rubber bumpers on the bottom of the rad. Cleaned and reused my existing fan.

Anywhere I saw rust I rubbed it down and treated it.

50/50 Renault D coolant and distilled water mix. Bled the system which took a while, eventually when the fan kicked in the coolant burped in the tank and the level settled. I’ll keep an eye on it but I was really careful with the bleeding and I think it’s all good.

Here’s where I need some help:

Vibratechnics gearbox mount. Honestly, I don’t know how people have the cheek to sell expensive parts that simply don’t fit. There are quite a few threads (now that I’m looking) about this on CS. The mount does not fit. The central spindle doesn’t slip through the centre of the vibratechnics mount. And, the new mount requires that you use their new longer bolts to either side. That means removing the plate that the mount sits in your takeout the Renault bolts. That would have been ok, but when removing it I sheared one of the two bolts that hold it to the body. Super fucked off about that. I think I have enough thread showing that I will be able to get out, but again a quick job becomes a ball ache. I would not recommend the vibratechnics gearbox mount, and I haven’t even driven the car with it yet. I mean, I can’t.

Second thing: I noticed a small electrical connector that has a missing wire. Can anyone identify it? For some reason CS posts my photos above the text, so the picture will be back at the top of the post. Thanks if you know what it is/ what I can do about it.

It does feel good to have a clean new cooling system and to be able to gas and use a/c now! One more step forwards. Some manly pics to follow to show what a state it was in when I started in this job!

 

[Polynesian]

I also replaced the bonnet release, and used new stainless fittings where appropriate. Just trying to neaten it up and extend its life properly!
Looks at the state of that rad. The condenser had dragged through it and was hanging completely out of place. No wonder it lost the gas…

 

[hopgop1]

View attachment 1775675View attachment 1775676Ok, so a bit more detail:

Replaced all coolant hoses with MTC silicon hoses and stainless hi grip clamps. The two narrow bore hoses that link to the heater are poorly specified vs factory hoses as they T pieces that connect them are too long. Took off enough from each to make them fit properly. Fitted. New coolant header tank.

Fitted a new Nissens radiator and A/C rad and drier. I used new seals with a little PAG oil on them for the A/c connections and put 30ml of PAG oil into the condenser and 10ml into the drier. New rubber bumpers on the bottom of the rad. Cleaned and reused my existing fan.

Anywhere I saw rust I rubbed it down and treated it.

50/50 Renault D coolant and distilled water mix. Bled the system which took a while, eventually when the fan kicked in the coolant burped in the tank and the level settled. I’ll keep an eye on it but I was really careful with the bleeding and I think it’s all good.

Here’s where I need some help:

Vibratechnics gearbox mount. Honestly, I don’t know how people have the cheek to sell expensive parts that simply don’t fit. There are quite a few threads (now that I’m looking) about this on CS. The mount does not fit. The central spindle doesn’t slip through the centre of the vibratechnics mount. And, the new mount requires that you use their new longer bolts to either side. That means removing the plate that the mount sits in your takeout the Renault bolts. That would have been ok, but when removing it I sheared one of the two bolts that hold it to the body. Super fucked off about that. I think I have enough thread showing that I will be able to get out, but again a quick job becomes a ball ache. I would not recommend the vibratechnics gearbox mount, and I haven’t even driven the car with it yet. I mean, I can’t.

Second thing: I noticed a small electrical connector that has a missing wire. Can anyone identify it? For some reason CS posts my photos above the text, so the picture will be back at the top of the post. Thanks if you know what it is/ what I can do about it.

It does feel good to have a clean new cooling system and to be able to gas and use a/c now! One more step forwards. Some manly pics to follow to show what a state it was in when I started in this job!

From memory, I'm sure that missing wire is how it's supposed to be, as weird as that sounds.

 

[Brigsy]

Fyi - Type d coolant is ready mixed, not concentrate so worth checking its not too diluted at 50/50.

 

[Matt Cup]

How did you find the heater matrix pipe replacement?

 

[Polynesian]

Fyi - Type d coolant is ready mixed, not concentrate so worth checking it’s not too diluted at 50/50.

Arse! Literally I do something carefully and I mess it up. I’ll rectify this asap. Thanks for calling it out.

 

[Polynesian]

How did you find the heater matrix pipe replacement?

The original clips are really difficult to release. I used pliers designed for electrical connectors, and just released the tension in the clips and gradually wiggled them off. A bit of silicon spray under the original hose helped.

The main issue is, if you’re replacing with silicon hoses, trimming the connection between the two heater matrix hoses so they fit. I trimmed the T pieces between them and also one end, to level them up.

 

[Polynesian]

Also, anyone have one of these spare, passenger side, mondial blue?

 

[Brigsy]

Fuel line pliers work well for releasing the heater hose fittings. Mine were a nightmare as leaked when removed/refitted, i ended up changing the o rings to get a good seal.

 

[ex-Chinese Dave]

View attachment 1775725Also, anyone have one of these spare, passenger side, mondial blue?

I've asked someone breaking on eBay...i'll let you know what the reply is.

 

[ex-Chinese Dave]

Right, he said he may have some.

Renault clio 172 cup (Breaking only) | eBay UK

This listing is for a Renault Clio 172 Cup. Please note that this listing is for the purpose of breaking only, and not for the sale of the entire vehicle. The Clio 172 Cup is a popular car that is known for its reliable performance and sleek exterior design. If you are in need of specific car...

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Polynesian]

Right, he said he may have some.

Renault clio 172 cup (Breaking only) | eBay UK

This listing is for a Renault Clio 172 Cup. Please note that this listing is for the purpose of breaking only, and not for the sale of the entire vehicle. The Clio 172 Cup is a popular car that is known for its reliable performance and sleek exterior design. If you are in need of specific car...

www.ebay.co.uk

Cheers- that’s a big help!

 

[16v_paddy]

View attachment 1775725Also, anyone have one of these spare, passenger side, mondial blue?

I'm going to pick up some bits from someone that's breaking one later today, I can ask for you

 

[Polynesian]

I'm going to pick up some bits from someone that's breaking one later today, I can ask for you

Amazing- thank you. I need a few parts but this would be a great help.

 

[16v_paddy]

Amazing- thank you. I need a few parts but this would be a great help.

He's got those roof trims, it's also a Cup with air con if that's any help
Here's his FB profile

 

[Polynesian]

He's got those roof trims, it's also a Cup with air con if that's any help
Here's his FB profile

View attachment 1775755

Thanks Paddy, brilliant!

 

[Polynesian]

The car didn’t start very easily for the coolant bleed, and now won’t start at all. It turns over fine. As I cleaned down some of the filthiest filth from the block when I had the rad out I’m guessing it’s mostly to be the crank position sensor a bit moist? Will be able to get my hands down there to unclip and spray with electrical connector cleaner, without removing a load of parts?
Hoping it’s going to be this easy…

 

[Matt Cup]

The car didn’t start very easily for the coolant bleed, and now won’t start at all. It turns over fine. As I cleaned down some of the filthiest filth from the block when I had the rad out I’m guessing it’s mostly to be the crank position sensor a bit moist? Will be able to get my hands down there to unclip and spray with electrical connector cleaner, without removing a load of parts?
Hoping it’s going to be this easy…

Just remove the airbox, that’ll give you plenty of space to get to the cps.

 

[Polynesian]

Car is running again, all good on that front and battery back on my ctek. But, how the hell do I get this snapped bolt out?

I’ve tried locking pliers, heat, wurth rust-off to seep into the threads and now dremelled a groove into it and tried to undo it. Nothing.

I don’t have the equipment or skill to weld a bolt into it. I’m pretty sure I put the bolt under stress with the gearbox mount raised too far on the jack, and that may mean the snapped part of the bolt is really stuck in the body. Please does anyone have a helpful suggestion?

 

[Louis]

Car is running again, all good on that front and battery back on my ctek. But, how the hell do I get this snapped bolt out?

I’ve tried locking pliers, heat, wurth rust-off to seep into the threads and now dremelled a groove into it and tried to undo it. Nothing.

I don’t have the equipment or skill to weld a bolt into it. I’m pretty sure I put the bolt under stress with the gearbox mount raised too far on the jack, and that may mean the snapped part of the bolt is really stuck in the body. Please does anyone have a helpful suggestion?


View attachment 1776009

Angle grind the captive out from the wheel arch then either rivnut or nut and bolt it.

 

[16v_paddy]

I'd heat it up and also buy this set to get it out

Stud Extractor Remover Socket Set 6 8 10 12mm Stud Extracting Remover Tool Kit | eBay UK

Stud Extractor Set for the safe removal of manifold/exhaust type Studs. Could also be used for snapped bolts providing you still have enough thread/bolt to grip. Type: Stud Extractor. 1 x 4Pcs Stud Extractor Set.

ebay.us

 

[Matthew_]

Car is running again, all good on that front and battery back on my ctek. But, how the hell do I get this snapped bolt out?

I’ve tried locking pliers, heat, wurth rust-off to seep into the threads and now dremelled a groove into it and tried to undo it. Nothing.

I don’t have the equipment or skill to weld a bolt into it. I’m pretty sure I put the bolt under stress with the gearbox mount raised too far on the jack, and that may mean the snapped part of the bolt is really stuck in the body. Please does anyone have a helpful suggestion?


View attachment 1776009

In the past I've used a tool like this and it's worked to get the odd snapped bolt out. Might be worth a shot.

https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/all-hand-tools/laser-impact-stud-extractor-1%2F2in-drive-121932.html?gclsrc=aw.ds&&_$ja=tsid:%7Ccid:17363835999%7Cagid:%7Ctid:%7Ccrid:%7Cnw:x%7Crnd:2653612361462251840%7Cdvc:m%7Cadp:%7Cmt:%7Cloc:1007326&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17366425846&gbraid=0AAAAADrJx6xsDaenmpW-e0l8nHsaXka63&gclid=CjwKCAiAs4HMBhBJEiwACrfNZRizV7-mCYkRSP4QYiSGQLcQitu1m95wNe96IdAryUOy_oXk4zHLyRoC0mwQAvD_BwE

 

[Polynesian]

While I wait for bits to sort the gearbox mount, my a/c guy had a gap so came to charge the system up. He did that, and the compressor works, the a/c pipes are cold but there’s only hot air inside… it’s a known issue with a cable tie fix apparently, but all the links to the solution on CS are 404 not found.

Can anyone link me to a guide to this cable tie fix? Thanks!

 

[Ant1]

While I wait for bits to sort the gearbox mount, my a/c guy had a gap so came to charge the system up. He did that, and the compressor works, the a/c pipes are cold but there’s only hot air inside… it’s a known issue with a cable tie fix apparently, but all the links to the solution on CS are 404 not found.

Can anyone link me to a guide to this cable tie fix? Thanks!

Probably mashed the heater control gear. common issue - search for 'heater blows hot air', it's covered all the time.

Basically you want to get down in the drivers footwell, on the side of the centre console are 2 motors, one controls temperature, one controls air direction. you need to remove the metal plate and motors, put a cable tie or something around the broken cog, refit everything, and bob's your mother's brother. It's about 6-8 screws i think.

 

[hopgop1]

While I wait for bits to sort the gearbox mount, my a/c guy had a gap so came to charge the system up. He did that, and the compressor works, the a/c pipes are cold but there’s only hot air inside… it’s a known issue with a cable tie fix apparently, but all the links to the solution on CS are 404 not found.

Can anyone link me to a guide to this cable tie fix? Thanks!

If you have the link and it's the old format, take the thread number from the link, e.g. 853147 and stick it on the end of https://cliosport.net/threads/ , it'll work.

 

[Polynesian]

Probably mashed the heater control gear. common issue - search for 'heater blows hot air', it's covered all the time.

Basically you want to get down in the drivers footwell, on the side of the centre console are 2 motors, one controls temperature, one controls air direction. you need to remove the metal plate and motors, put a cable tie or something around the broken cog, refit everything, and bob's your mother's brother. It's about 6-8 screws i think.

Thanks, that’s the plan. One step forward and two steps back with this car!

 

[Polynesian]

Arghhh.

Arghhh.

Arghhh.

This car. I’m losing the will. I could do with some help…

1. The f**king vibratechnics gearbox mount. A curse upon their house for making such a poorly fitting part at such a premium price. At least have the decency to say “this fits like s**t. Dremel it and smack it a lot and it may just make it onto the spindle.”

So, I got the bracket out, and despite buying a couple of extractor tools, the broken bolt on the bracket for the mount won’t budge. So I started to think, just for the mount using 3 bolts on the bracket instead of 4.

But whatever I do with the jack under the gearbox, I can’t get the bracket to line up on the mounting holes in the chassis leg. I’ve whacked the s**t out of the badly made vibratechnics mount to get it all the way down on the spindle, but the bracket it sits in won’t settle over the mounting holes.
How can I get the thing to line up to bolt it in?
At the moment, the bracket is in, battery in, and not a single bolt is holding the upper mount in. Is it going to be safe to drive like that in order to get to a specialist/ person with lots of fire/cliff?

2. So I figured I could at least do the star thingy repair on the heater control under the dash. Haha. Please help my sanity- the not that gets knackered is the black plastic circle with what looks like a star inlay in perfect condition? Unlikely to be the problem? Yet in the other picture a black cog looks like it has a broken (white) edge?

3. Never mind all the other stuff I need to work through on the car.

4. I found these brackets from the car that I removed and cleaned up and sprayed last year. I can’t remember what they are or where they go? Anyone know?

5. Found this addition in my fusebox- what on earth could it be for?

Thanks, I am grateful for any help getting this cup less poo and more perfect.

 

[chazza114]

This is how my Vibratechnics mount looked when I installed it last year, if its of any help to you?

I found that when installing the whole mount, its easiest to loosen off that little rubber one that sits on the subframe, and then start pushing stuff around until it starts to line up. It does take a bit of trial and error to get it right, I remember being frustrated when doing it too.

And those brackets look like the front anti-roll bar brackets, but I could be wrong?

 

[Louis]

Why aren't you angle grinding the captive off from inside the wheel well?

 

[Polynesian]

Why aren't you angle grinding the captive off from inside the wheel well?

Because it’s the end of a bolt- the head sheared off. So there’s nothing to grind in the wheelarch.

 

[Matt Cup]

Because it’s the end of a bolt- the head sheared off. So there’s nothing to grind in the wheelarch.

There is, the “captive” nut that the bolt surely fastens into.

I presume you’ve put a load of penetrating fluid on it like plus gas and tried to remove it with some of the extraction tools mentioned above?

 

[Polynesian]

There is, the “captive” nut that the bolt surely fastens into.

I presume you’ve put a load of penetrating fluid on it like plus gas and tried to remove it with some of the extraction tools mentioned above?

Ah, gotcha, sorry. Yep have used wurth rost off, heat and a couple of different extractor tools.

ETA- actually, I’m really not sure there is a captive nut. The other fixing bolts have threads directly in the metal of the chassis…

 

[Louis]

Because it’s the end of a bolt- the head sheared off. So there’s nothing to grind in the wheelarch.

Ahh i must be talking out my arse then because I definitely didn't angle grind the captive cage out from under the wheel well and shove a M8 bolt in it.

 

[Polynesian]

Ahh i must be talking out my arse then because I definitely didn't angle grind the captive cage out from under the wheel well and shove a M8 bolt in it.

View attachment 1776304

Keep talking out of your arse then, seems you’re both right! Seems I have a trip to the wheelarch after all.

It’s being a real ballache at the moment, and it doesn’t help that it’s raining every day and it’s only under a gazebo roof.

 

[Brigsy]

Warm up the nut inside arch turret to get it going or drill it out in stages then send a tap through.

 

[MAXRUNDOWN]

I'm pretty sure that's a resistance welded stud, like the smaller ones that hold the fusebox in, I had one of them snapped (same one that's snapped in your pic), I wiggled it with some mole grips to break the welds and put a rivnut in it.

Obviously you want something more substantial than a rivnut for the gearbox mount but you should be able to get into the wheel arch and Dremel the welds off and knock the stud through from the front

Edit.. no it isn't, it's a captive nut.. same applies though, just knock/grind it free and nut/bolt the mount