Search results

Why do people still call them fan belts? No offence fellow Willy owner.

Just wheel it out of the show room as standard, then change the wheels. This way you get the standard ones as spares or snow wheels. As for the insurance, well i wouldnt of thought it would be valid as the gits will always try to get out of paying, but best check with the garage.

So why the hell post the message in the first place?? Just get on with it and stop wasting my time, when I could of been trying to help some body with a genuine need for advice. TW4T.

Ive got all 3 original brochures for the Williams, plus the posters that came out with them.

Not just a loose alternator belt?? If it was a bearing you will hear it more going round corners one way or the other. Like a dull grinding noise. Shockers, dunno. Check for leaks. The springs do have a habbit of breaking though, the last inch or so shears off and sits in the support cup...

Dash mate. Go on the relavent manufacturers website...nick the logos so the font is correct. Then pop them onto disk and take them down your local signwriter for laser cutting. Nice and easy, and only a few quid too.

What the hell are you on?? One to fabricate yourself would cost more than to buy one of the shelf!! Plus they do them in stainless steel too!! As for the bolts, what originals?? The bolts go through the strut top when you put in the strut brace. No strut brace = no bolts.

Andy Symonds Williams 2 (e-mail pics when it is clean!!!) Brighton

It is a piece of p$ss to do it yourself, they will charge you a few quid. All you need to do is whip off the old one and bang on your new one with a new U-clamp.

Just buy the replacement panel filters, most if not all induction kits are useless unless fully enclosed to engine bay.

Yep the Magnex works fine for my Willy, not got the de-cat cause I think the Magnex one is a silencer type anyway and not just a straight through pipe. The fit is perfect, and the noise/performance is spot on, not too loud when normal driving but can bark when wanted. ;)

Had the Willy on the rev limiter in top several times, I swear theres more if only the limiter was higher. I think a chip is needed. Probably around 140ish i think.

You will have to remove the tie bar as well as the dog bone mount. I would put the car on stands and then use the jack to raise up to the underside of the sump cause when you undo the dog bone your engine and gearbox will want to swing forward. Not that it will do any damage but just to give it...

I wouldnt even be considering anything else apart from the STi or an EVO. Got to be one of the all time grreatest cars for the money, and you can do so much to them as well. Probabably looking at 15K though.

Better to be bright anodised as this will be cheaper and probably a longer finish, same result though.

I know ALS and that EVO aint got a WRC type!!

Still think we need to get the admin team on producing a map detailing how many cars and what models there are in each area. Maybe the regional area reps can do it for there own back yard?

Paul, am I right in thinking you use Pro-E??

But surely the sidewall of the tyre will be reduced to keep the same overall OD and keep the speedo in check??

Not sure if this is anti-lag or not..the flames are happening when it is bouncing off the rev limiter so it might be the result of the unburnt fuel in the system. I would expect to hear a very loud bang and crack when he whips his foot off the throttle but it doesnt. The anti-lag on this is...

Very nice motor you got there fella. You can pull through the problems.....you know she is worth it!!!!

Shouldnt be a major problem, you will of course have to get the correct bit of dash and stuff. Plus the correct senders from oil level, temp and pressure for the 3 small ones. As for the main dials, that should be OK too, although never had to try it. You might have to run a wire or connector...

Could anybody do a search with the member stats to see the national spread of them and totals?? Cant be that many left can they?? I know that Willy production totals but what about the valver?? Maybe just a 16V and Willy meet is on the cards??

It was probably running a ALS (anti-lag system) assuming it was a turbod car. This system when off-throttle still pumps fuel into the cylinders and retards the sparks so it doesnt ignite in there. Then when the unburnt fuel is exhausted it meets the hot manifold explodes, keeps the turbo...

Polishing it yourself is a viable option but it WILL take a shed load of time and patience, and ofcourse quite costly paste and buffers. Then there is the enternal question of do you lacquer it or leave it natural with buffs every week?? The choice my friend is yours... Try...

OK, I live in Brighton and travelled to my home town of Skipton for a nice long weekend in the country. Having spent a total of about 12-14 hrs on the road, I saw ONE other 16V plus a GTT. So I am asking the question....where are they all??? How many 16Vs and Willys are left do ya think??

Nick Hill once told me on the phone that the cause of this - although not sure if it is for all cases. It is something to do with a speed sensor in or around the gearbox.

Why dont you just take a tape measure to it?? It shouldnt be higher with 17s as the rolling diameter should be kept the same to keep speedo correct. Therefore the height i think should be the same as the OE.

Personally i wouldnt paint it as this is prone to cracking in time. I would and am, sending mine away to be anodisied. This is a chemical reaction that dyes the aluminium the correct colour whilst creating a protective hardened layer of material. Pretty cheep too.

You mean the 3-pronged type?? I have a fairly healthy suspision that if you go to Renault they will supply you with a complete 3-pronged assembly that you have to put back on yourself. I am of course assuming here it is the n/s one as the o/s side one is fixed and attached by the stub axle. If...