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The brake pedal switch is actually two switches in a single assembly. One is responsible for tuning on/off the actual brake lights. The other is a throwback to the ECU which is used to reduce power output under braking and to turn off cruise control (if active/applicable). Both switches need to...

Pretty button yes but also pain in the arse. Just pin the standard buttons somewhere that's not on the wheel... column surround for example

It's because Josh is now VAT Registered and so, he has to charge 20% It happens to us all I'm afraid and it's good to see Cooksport Ltd doing well. Let's be honest, £144 for a set of springs is still a great deal considering they're far from s**t.

From memory the connection is slightly different between the X65 and X85 but I believe the switches work. Don't use the Megane III items as they are completely different. Personally, when I put cruise on WZG I cable tied my standard wheel buttons to my Oreca dished wheel.... It didn't look...

But he hasn't got a ph1 so your point is kind of irrelevant. On a Ph2 it will have an upstream and a downstream sensor so unless the ECU is recoded to that of a single sensor setup, the MIL will illuminate.

You'll get a bit more power and economy from a good remap alone. Personally, I don't rate de-CAT'n these cars. Cost Vs Benefits just isn't worth it IMO. Then it brings on the MIL periodically which is just annoying when it happens 3 out of 5 days in the week. Mick

It shouldn't really effect it that much. Is it mapped? Was anything else done?

As above, you need a three prong puller... Halfords will sell you one. It does need to be a specific dimension though.

I spent many years playing this game but gave up when Source was released. I loved it

On a plus note, I've NEVER seen a set from BGM returned for failed seals. I know where i'd be sending mine, based on what I've seen that is.

From what I've seen, I don't rate CF for refurbing these. This year alone, I have seen x3 Trophys with there work all leaking from fly he main seal... Not one set over 9 months old.

He's on about rears Tony. The X65 Cups ran standard rear beams so there must be something wrong with your installation or setup. What camber are you running? Any spacers?

Ah, right then, that is a different set of possibles all together then. Firstly, are you sure the rear hub spacer is correctly installed on each rear disc assembly? Secondly, are you using genuine Renault disc assemblies? Mick

It depends what is actually wrong with it. I'd start by pulling the lock barrel out of the column and check the lock engages/disengages correctly.

Just be careful with some of the copy keys as I know the cards cannot be programmed by a dealer/CLIP and need to be done on something else.

Something defy not right here. As above, more likely to be an incorrect assembly or torque value causing this. Assuming you're using decent bearing units to rather than some £13 Chinese special?

You sir, are a Maverick!

Are you at Bedford in Feb again Tony?

Not at all but everyone thinks that, until they have a new clutch fitted. They're actually a nice, balanced weight but age/wear causes the pressure plate to stiffen up. When they get too stiff the clutch cable and ratchet mech can suffer.

Brake fluid will normally bring on the SERV and Brake warning light. I have seen connection problems with the light/rain sensor bring on the SERV before. The UCH interprets the open circuit as a configuration error which can turn it on.

Check the leak isn't the PAS pressure sensor first as they are prone for it.

Start simple first before looking at stretched timing chains. See what the codes and live data say first.

Sounds like the pressure plate is old and the clutch pedal, if it is indeed "slipping" has been damaged due to the heavy clutch actuation. This will need replacing also.

That could be on for any reason on a 1.2 16v. Plug it in and see what it's saying as it could be the reason for your flat battery.

If there is a leak, it'll be the CSC in the gearbox... Unless it has an inline pressure dampener, these can fail to. You'd know it though if there was a leak. Have you checked all your brake pads btw?

Its a fair bit cheaper these days. We do them for £550 and I believe AndyG is around the £490 mark.

I kind of agree but I would never tell one of my customers to spend £4k modding a Clio and still only have around 200hp afterwards. By all means modify it but make the money you spend count (Tyres, Suspension, Brakes and Trackdays for me rather than ITB's, Turbos and witchcraft). Tony and Jay...

It takes a bit of time if there's air in the system. You're sure there's no leak?

Top it up and pump it like a mad man until it comes back. If it stays spongey then a full bleed will be required

Yup yup They're essentially the same thing Daniel except the MTU is user serviceable (and easy to defeat the security on, unlike the UCH)