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They normally go in the car. IIRC the backstays only need to be 60cm2 (but you'd have to check the blue book to be sure). If you go thicker than 3mm it is just more difficult to weld to the shell as it is not that thick.

All you do is tighten the crank pulley and then rotate the whole engine and adjust as necessary.

Clio 182 FF in Arctic blue Average condition for year and mileage 04 plate 150k miles Standard car not been modified, except for quiet ktec/janspeed exhaust Belts done last year

It is fairly straight forward if you follow the Renault pdf. There are no errors in it from what I've seen. With the engine out it will be much easier. Don't let CS put you off. The pdf refers to 2 procedures one involves loosening the cam pulleys the other doesn't. Undoing all 3 pulleys is the...

Interested to know where you get the 20mm spacing figures from Tom?

It is 2l for circuit racing (3l for engines over 2l)

Like Dan says really, I would delete for 422/423 cams probably. Chip did go on about some other advantage in keeping it. Might be worth a search for his posts with vvt delete/dephaser in lol or contact him on face book.

I've got Toyo R1R for wet races although I've never used them for that. I did put them on my road 182 for a while to get some use out of them and I found they weren't as good in the wet as Michelin PS3. Most "cheaper" race series don't allow proper wets, you have to be on the MSA 1A (normal road...

I have mine in that position. I think it is PC680. I used these: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/wiring-connectors/auto-marine-power-jointing-boxes http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/wiring-connectors/longacre-battery-through-panel

One issue with mine actually was the bolts for the backstays come out where the spring platform is. This was no problem for me as I have ASTs, but if you want to run springs in the std position you need to be careful during the install that the bolt heads don't foul the spring. If I did it again...

Same cost to buy and install I would say. The only difference is the labour to remove the dash - which would be quite a bit (few hours) I expect if you got someone else to do it. To be MSA spec they all need the same plates welding to the shell. They also run where the UCH is but you can just...

Why do you want a dash dodger? I'd get one that goes behind the dash myself. I actually wanted a dash dodger when I bought mine but OMP had changed the design without me realising so I got a behind the dash job, but with hindsight I much prefer what I got. Mine is the OMP 6 point bolt in one FIA...

Was there a tear in your eye as you undid the first bolt? It is a shame but look forward to seeing your next one :)

Ah I see lol. 4-500 quid is not miles off. They're probably quoting a bit extra as they haven't done one before. What sort of map do you have now? The map on my OMEX is for a 182 on bodies with 421s so should be pretty close to what yours will end up as.

Removing the engine is easy and straight forward really, no tricky bits I can think of. But you can do the belts and rocker cover in car, no need to remove the engine. Make sure you read up on the procedure and make sure you're happy to do it. The cam and crank pulleys are all floating. There is...

I don't know if anyone has mentioned it, but the cables to connect an OMEX to a PC cost about 20 quid tops. the OMEX mapping software is free to download from OMEX. All you need is a serial cable and a USB to serial converter. I got mine on ebay for peanuts and have used it to read the map no...

Look forward to seeing your new thread James, and the parts for sale list ;)

I hope you get the dephaser and water pump done too! Renault give service intervals for a reason.

It should still move when the brake is pressed. When the brake is pressed the lever should move down as the brake pressure pushes a little piston in the compensator, this moves out to reduce rear effort. If the lever is seized it could either be in the down or up position if it is down it will...

I remember iceman showed me a bucket of gearbox oil that'd done one race with a gripper and it had loads of particulate settle out, I guess from the gripper plates.

Shocking! I didn't realise he'd started up again.

You need to be realistic about your expectations, most of the people who get good figures post them up the ones who don't are less likely to post so you are likely to get unrealistic expectations from searching. Boost is the way to go if you want figures. Bare in mind Paul's rollers are the...

PM me your e-mail and I'll send you some pdfs.

I bought the full version in the end, much better then the demo. I got to eve and back, spent some time getting loads of fuel into high orbit around kerbal. Then got distracted with decorating the house.

If had the space I'd buy myself another 172 cup and keep it std. Look great, loads of fun, no abs, ESP, etc.

Looks great, I'm really liking the 200T. I've seen three on the road now.

Some of the ones I know of: http://www.cliosport.net/threads/btms-beast.588199/ http://www.cliosport.net/threads/newbie-with-a-clio-cup-race-car.540049/page-18 http://www.cliosport.net/threads/260bhp-tonne-clio.523216/...

I'm at panto with the kids otherwise I'd come along. Hopefully get to your next one @Christopher.

I'll come too if they can fit me in. I meant to reply ages ago sorry.

That's what I did. You can route the wires through the bulkhead where the bonnet cable goes, the grommet has some spare room.