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Regs like that are just a nightmare to enforce. Best bet is completely std. The only mod I would allow would be where std parts are stupidly expensive e.g. the exhaust. ​

It is impossible to say. The stiffer suspension does make a big difference. ​

The problem with tightly regulated series is that people cheat, the clubs don't have the resources to fully police the regs and even if you don't cheat you can still spend 5k+ blue printing a std F4R engine. So it ends up not being as cheap as you think if you want to be competitive. Some people...

I have circled the bits Morgan means for you.

When I did my sump first time the gearbox was still on the engine. So I got all the sump bolts finger tight and then tightened it snug to the gearbox, then torqued up the sump bolts I think. Last time I did it I had the box off as well and don't remember even thinking about it lol! ​

All the ones you mentioned are captive nuts AFAIK. Not sure how you'd sort them but it must happen all the time so I'm sure someone will know. Impact wrench is good for bolts that have been sat for years, less chance of shearing. The big rear bolts are the worst ones if they start to spin...

From your own for sale thread "Genuine RenaultSport Cup racer cage. Its a bolt in one but can easily be welded in." http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?554214-RenaultSport-Cup-Racer-Rollcage-in-Red&highlight=cup+racer+cage

They are 6 point. Yours was bolt in wasn't it? Plus even if that one in your picture is welded at the 6 floor points, it is not welded to the a/b pillars which is what makes a weld in cage better. Just welding at the same points you would put the bolts in is not going to be much different to...

You won't get an accurate water temp without the water pump moving water around the engine. I've run mine for a few seconds without the aux belt. ​

Sounds like it'll be quick once you get the niggles sorted. To be expected on a new build first time out. ​

Looking good. Can you reach those buttons by the digi dash when you're strapped in? ​

What's wrong with that? It is what mk2 cup racers had IIRC.

Sounds like a good day Pete. Thruxton is intense.

It is a large amount of miles for a tyre. I never discovered a root cause. Not had any problems since I converted it to a race car, before that it was mostly motorway/DC miles. ​

Re: sonny172cup "track racer project" It'll be interesting to see what difference the PMS manifold makes. ​

PM me your e-mail and I'll send you the a pdf of the procedure so you at least know what you should do.

I did look at the lemforder parts catalogue and it didn't look like they did the longer ones.

I just do it from underneath, keep tweaking it until I can select all the gears from there.

I just cut the wire in the fuse box that fed it power, capped it and ripped the rest out and had no immobiliser problems. The alarm is not part of the car's loom it is stand alone, except for a bit of tape. Only UK models got them IIRC. When it won't start what does the red light on the dash do? ​

I have a ktec sports cat on my race car and it passes the mot no problem. But for a road car I wouldn't bother. It is about as loud as a decat.