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Circlip on the inside or the outside? Either way I wouldn't have thought it would make that much difference, certainly not enough to cause the housing to wear.

Sorry to hear about this James, but from here at least it does look too bad? Where exactly is the play in the beam?

Some temperature strips would be useful too, not expensive either. I'm sure it would be possible to come up with a fairly compact system, the oil pumps aren't much bigger than a fuel pump, simple temperature switch to control it and a small cooler. But I appreciate no matter what, its still...

Have you got an infrared thermometer? Would at least give you some idea what temperature it's actually running at, or put a few temperature strips on it. Not sure what the operating limit is on B373 but if its spitting oil out the breather it sounds like its possibly frothing up so must be...

I doubt it's Det either TBH, as mentioned earlier far more likely to see that on the big ends.

Just what I was about to type! Does the ecu have any sort of knock detection?

Was everything balanced? Do any of the other bearings have any signs of fatigue failure? Might be a vibration/harmonic issue after all, but can also be caused by detonation although thats more likely on the big ends than the mains.

The surface of the centre main looks like it's suffered from fatigue failure. If it was just shrapnel that had gone through it, it would be heavily scored but there are two distinct areas on the cap shell that have started to break away. It's possible the big end that failed suffered the same...

If you have a fairly new PC it'll have windows movie maker, not the best editing program but good enough to do what you need.

I heard what your saying. Just that in all the instances I've seen or known of a rod bolt either snapping or coming loose the failure of the remaining one happens within a split second. Did the rod the was ejected from James engine have any signs of heat on it? I can't remember now...

If a rod bolt had failed you wouldn't see any discolouration on the big end, it would just snap and spit the rod out. Also the fact in hindsight you felt it go a bit off song and have since seen that the oil pressure dropped 1 bar suggests that there was something developing.

Given the potential for carnage it certainly looks like you've been lucky! Be interesting to see what the rest of the bearings look like and try to figure out what caused it.

Made a good job of that! Even if the piston has hit the head ( Which I suspect it probably has) it will only have hit it once, admittedly probably pretty hard but it might not be too bad. Personally I'm going to be logging oil pressure (as well as various other things) in the ECU for exactly...

Sh#t! Sorry to hear this. I've not really read much into the bearing failures on these engines but Ive been around subarus for years so safe to say I've seen and known plenty bearing issues! Even though the bearings on these are tagless that doesn't make them any more susceptible to spinning...

It's inside the tank, you can reach the back of it through the fuel pump hole. Do you have the 15mm (ish) pipe vented to atmosphere?

Until you need to remove something and then you've got to drill out lots of pop rivets!

You won't like my car much then there are one or two dozen on it already! But if it makes any different they are all neat, heads lined up, snipped flush so there's no wee jaggy bit I appreciate where your coming from though, if there's a better solution, p-clip, heatshrink etc then fair...

Yeah it is a fair old lump but if you consider its basically the entire electircal system for the car, bar the ECU compressed into one unit, it's not actually too bad. Time to wire it all, I'm honestly not sure but i'd take a wild guess at something around 60-70hrs?

There's nothing to be concerned about by using one wire colour, if you number the ends it's far better than using different colours/tracer combinations imho. With proper diagrams it's a doddle to trace things and you can quickly pin point any faults or issues. The main reason I used one colour...

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Finally..... the switch panel is finished, assuming there are no mistakes that is hahah. I've been through it once already with the multimeter and all seems good but I'll go through everything again tomorrow with a fresh check sheet just to make sure. Those who dont like cable ties, look away...

Ouch! Don't want too many more repairs like that. Interesting that its got semi-helical gears, i assumed they would be straight cut.

Well done James, car looks fantastic! As others have said, credit to you for sticking at it seeing it through, I'm sure many would have thrown the towel in after what you've been through. Then just when you thought TDF saga was finished, another bit crops up!! That starter cable truly is...

Only home for 12 days this time, more like 11 now :( I've got loads of other stuff to get on with so not overly confident about getting much done on the car. That said I had a few things sitting waiting when I got home, top mounts back from being nickel plated Hoping to get a bit more...

Excellent, always nice to get a bit of history on a car. If you keep an eye on the thread or ill drop you a pm when I finally get it finished, your welcome to come along for a hurl in it.

I also know someone who had it as a courtesy car from Ness motors, not sure what year that was though, i'd need to ask him again. Where did she buy it from? If I get it finished this year i'll certainly be aiming to get it out somewhere for a shake down, might be Kames first as it's easier to...

You've been busy James! Looks great.

Looks like a cracking day! Thats Imp is awesome! I remember watching them (among other things) at Ingliston years ago when the original grandstand was still there, the noise as they screamed round arena was unbelievable. Clio looks fairly lively, did you find out what power it had?

The difference in flexibility could also be down to how the loom is built, ideally all the cores want to be laid in concentricly twisted layers, each one in the opposite direction from the previous. If your a professional loom builder then this will be second nature but for your average Joe...

Why do you wish you'd used different heatshrink? DR25 is the mainstay of Motorsport looms but its very expensive and probably overkill for most applications. I've been using a tyco heatshrink (not sure who owns who but they're linked with Raychem anyway) can't recall the part number off hand...