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I think you have to let go of the "noise" thing when you want the real benefit of your Schricks..
I have a centre silencer and it sounds loud inside the car but on the outside it's quite okay !
Yozza or pure motorsport will be the ones from whom i'll choose my next exhaust from...
99% of the dirt in the pics is because of the oil-breather still being connected...
disconnect this (buy one of those little filter-thingy's, stick it on the tube+let it vent to atmosphere) and your TB will stay squeaky-clean
^^^ dug up an old thread: My bonnet insulation has come loose a bit on top and is laying on my coil pack/leads and it looks like the leads have started to melt !!? where it touches..
Anybody know if removing the insulation will in time/eventually damage the paint job of the bonnet ? Because...
Sounds silly éh , these bar/pub-horsepower claims ! :eek: My car (engine) has been rebuilt. A Ph1 engine was overhauled and i threw in some Schricks. Henk did the mapping. The high outcome also put me in a kind of disbelief. Afterwards I emailed Henk to ask if he was sure on these figures...
my former engine (RIP) was exactly like you stated ; pushed hard from new and made 195 with cams on honest rollers. It went like a train, very loose engine i guess. Was on 120,000 km before it had a mishap. I'm wishing to give her the same treatment (except for the mishap that is ..)
Hard or gentle ? I had instructions not to take it over 5000 rpm for the first 1000+ km's , and i stuck to it (as hard as that is..) . I did however let the engine really work hard up to these 5000rpm , on every level. Very fluctuating rpm's, pushing it hard through different rev ranges...
^ thanks , actually yeah i've come across his name a couple of times searching the 9 pages haha ! But i'm wanting to order in Holland so i don't think there's an advantage to be had here , with shipping + all.
Just searched through all 9 pages , back to 2009, No luck on genuine part no's for the shafts .. :dead:
Can someone help me on the part numbers , pretty please ? Thanks guys
Ive tried many many setups… and guess what, the paper filter won :star:
Engine seemed less torque-y with the foam ones , the tad little resistance of the paper one felt better on the throttle response (must not forget to mention that it's a V6 box)
and oh yeah; they FILTER better
^^ the above and very much so : weight saving. strip it! I have managed to lose about 50kg by replacing the exhaust, taking out the back seats + replacing the front seats with 6 kilo Sparco's , big placebo effect maybe but the car feels much more nippy with every kilo lost
^^ dug up this ol' thread :
My engine was rebuilt ; the mech said it would be wise to re-torque the headbolts after a couple thousand kilometers of driving/breaking her in.
Now i also read here + there that these F4R engine headbolts do'nt need re-torqueing .
Do or don't ?
lifters are generally left alone, unless they're broken. But genuine Renault lifters will cost you somewhere around 30 a piece , well around 40 to 50 euro's over here anyway. (over here being Holland)
Yeecup , mine is being fitted with these as we speak. I'm hoping these will do just as good as the cams i was running before which were Colombo&Bariani's. Profile is a little different to these so the car will need mapping at some time. This will be done by Henk Fastchip but need to wait for...
^^ This thread suddenly got me worrying! I'm in the middle of changing the (ruined)engine on my 172Cup to a Ph1 lump. Will this Ph1 engine run/fit on my 172Cup gearbox ? :eek:
Ok.. I could'nt get a better deal than 23 euros a piece over here, exhaust ones came around 26. The op is right when looking at his ITB plans and track + all :) I was interested as well in these..
OOps i do'nt think you can change/swap them around ! (I may be wrong) but there was a significant pricedifference between the first and second one when i went to Renault when having probs with my first lambda. First lambda is involved with the AFR which is important for cars' mixture and the...