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reverse of what I'd do to be honest. Road is the last bit to just have a check and tweak IMO. You can do all the dyno stuff in a couple of hours if you get good, and you're used to the software. (I'm not that fast!)

Definitely the valve head has fallen off. It's a known "issue"

Mapped mine on 95 ron. Shouldn't be knock limited at the top on decent fuel, but will be more so low down. Last one I did made better power at 26deg than 28deg. Are you road mapping or dyno?

421s all day long. To be honest though, it will be a very good improvement with stock cams

PMSL. Could have done with another pair of hands.......and a JCB

I've done a couple where the port shape and size has been completely changed in both the head and inlet manifold. It's the level of work I would only really do for a high compression build though. A little bit over the top for a stock bottom end. Mostly my heads are worked to include an enlarged...

a little tongue in cheek ;)

couldn't tell you. No side airbag in cup seats so that presents no issue. if the pre-tensioner is still there for the seatbelt then that will stop lights coming on. The wheel should definitely throw a light though

no, that will leave the light on permanently. You need to replicate the presence of a pyrotechnic squib (airbag triggering device) so resisters are necessary

;) ​

just change the pair (you should anyway) and fit 172 cup ones. It's easy to get a 172 cup reg number if you find one for sale. I had 3 182s in a week on 54/05 plates and all ran the less camber version, so the above summary is wrong.

Breaking another car to try and salvage well known common failures seems quite backward.

The only thing they're close on is the rear wheel bearings, and even those are expensive. because they're a drum rear brake, the shoes can be damaged when removing the drum to get the bearing out, so you might need shoes. not big money though

You could get a full set of lowering springs fitted for less than they've quoted you Non genuine standard rear springs (fine on a 1.2) should be about £30-£40 each, and 10 minutes to fit

suspension arms should be £45-50 for a 1.2 (guesstimate) and an hour maximum per side, so £90 worst case. Thats half their quote I just did an ARB drop link, took 10 minutes. Granted if it was rusted out it would be a half hour job, but still, it's a £3 part

ARB drop link is a £3 part ​I'd want to beat most of that by about 40-50%, there's nothing on that list that isn't a total con

it's guess work, trying to know whats on each car so there's no definitive list. The only way to tell is look

manifold gaskets are in top end set, which is about £108

can do, Only thing i'd change would be the cold start to be honest though, haha

very possibly. last 236bhp car I saw from there was 204, then 215 with the map fixed, so given that I believe the white car is 205-210(maximum) based on it still using stock injectors, I think they're bob on the same. the pace of them both backed that up, the black car got a real jump on Tony...

Get a good quality service exchange rebuilt caliper. It's not worth the hastle of trying to DIY it. I've already said that months ago when this thread started though

I'd have said the output of that black one was the same as the white car

23.40, or 29 for full bottom end gasket set.

yup thats right

well spotted Russ, 3.3ohm is almost nothing, 3.3kohm is quite a lot, but you might get away with it

don't trust the technician that worked in safety systems test and simulation for 4 years then. your call LOL

the map was specially tweaked to stop it stalling, thats why! lol. If it's not done, then you can cut out approaching junctions and that can be a bit dodgy as you lose brake servo assitance fairly quickly

I built it = amazeballs engine ;)

resistance is way too high for airbag. 2-2.5k is the ideal range. if you put too high resistance in, the computer sees open circuit

right, thats it!! I'm making the 197 sound like that. GOD I miss that car!!!!!