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Getting there a bit at a time ​

​I'm waiting for that, been eyeing up the Nexus 10

if you want it done, then at some point a top end rebuild is likely to be needed. You may aswell go for it, take a chance but bear in mind if it starts using oil you need more work doing. You might get away with it for a year or even more.

can be done on most things with the right method. Fairly futile though, you can't check the guides and stems for wear while you're there

so the car is getting a bit warmer now the outside temperature isn't -2? shocking revelation!!! Consider the possibility it wasn't getting warm enough before ;)

LOL at people not having heard of wonderwheels before. It's been around for 20 years or more and it's VISCIOUS. I use Ixtar wheel cleaner from renault personally (get it by the 5 litre bottle) and it's better than anything else by miles. I think it might be made of actual magic.

Think German legal minimum is 3mm so be cautious with tyres.

well LUK are OE on newer renaults like the 197 and megane 225 so all of equal quality IMO

not a big surprise still, you're running relatively high boost on a small turbo IIRC, you get to a certain point where a turbo just turns into a hot air pump and the only way to go is bigger. I'm a fan of big turbos on low boost with high compression for responsiveness. You should see...

LOL it'll be fine :clown:

54 IIRC I have a customer with a mk1 thats she's owned for 20 years, and she's in her 60s

you want as cool as you can. 25-30 isn't terrible for a turbo considering it's 15-20 outside at the moment

Valeo or LUK for me. But I've used Borg and beck before and they are top quality on other cars

no I absolutely did not! I said if you add cams it can disturb the stem seals and highlight other wear! Don't miss quote me! the best way I can explain it is that mechanical parts have a memory. Things bed in. Guides can wear but the seals still work as they're running on the same part of the...

TIG. Its thick to thin which is harder so I just chucked lots of filler rod at it which made welds a bit big but I've paid for worse lol

Had a bit of time this afternoon. I've never really done much TIG or Aluminium welding, so taught myself with a cheap chinese machine, and a load of scrap ofcuts. This is the first thing I've made and I'm quite pleased really. Not about to win any prizes but it's strong and fairly tidy.

but you've not changed your cams Phil, so you're totally out of context

Better off getting another engine, building it up gradually to spread the cost a little, and waiting for that one to pop to be honest

On that mileage if the valve guides havn't got 2mm side to side play on the exhaust side I'll be shocked, running extra lift will disturb the stem seals enough for you to start using oil if you're not already. My engineers laughed at how bad the guide wear was on the last head I took in and that...

sounds fairly obvious that it's not running on all cylinders. try unplugging the injectors one at a time while its running to see if there's any difference. when you find the one that makes no difference you've found the cylinder with the problem. Check the individual components on this...

Took mine off and threw it away

They're standard fit on Mk1's, but not mk2s

Don't think that kit would work as it uses the part of the bracket which is broken as the hinge for the alternator adjustment.

hammer a socket onto it

go to pretty much any motor factor and they'll have one for a couple of quid

very rare to see an F4R head that needs a skim even, I've never seen one with cracks except where it was over ported and went through a waterway

£400 ish. depends if you have aircon etc. Thats including the water pump

it's about £250 on a 1.2 16v

I'd glue pull that dent personally. I'm pretty sure you shouldn't need to drill anything to get access behind though, he's being lazy not removing trim

You'll have to wait and see James. It'll be good though