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Currently I’m running 888’s on one set of wheels for use on the track and have a set of brand-new T1-R’s on another set for the road (not that I do a lot of road miles, but just saves wearing down the 888’s). I’m going to have to replace the 888’s soon, they’ve lasted really well with approx. 2k...

Yes great please do. I had a look on the Forge site yesterday and they do a matching black 180 degree 19mm ID hose and a 19mm joiner, not sure I would also need a straight piece as will just cut the existing one, but understand you want to keep your originals.

Ok, thanks Jack, any tips/ideas/photos?

Since removing all the carpets and sound-deadening etc I could do with either building a false floor maybe 2cm higher, or just fitting longer pedals - obviously this option would be easier. Anyone done this or know of an OEM looking set but longer? Thanks Mark

I think I’m also going to get a 19mm 180 degree bend and hose coupling as my Forge hose doesn’t look like it will bend as easy as your standard hose is doing in your photo.

Hello Kelv, sorry didn't notice it was you. Good idea regarding the beam. If you're running coilovers you can have the old shock 'pans' removed as well.

I’ve fitted (well TDF did) the wishbone strengthening plates and spherical bearings, plus the rear-beam strengthening kit and spherical bearings. Was a fantastic upgrade and takes up all the slop in the chassis. Doesn’t make the ride noticeably any harder as such but you will notice potholes...

Thanks guys, definitely the next job once I get the car back end of next week, blower and matrix out and will go through the loom again. Will get some RainX and Antifog anyway but would be interested to see some photos of the roof scoop (inside & out if possible) when it’s fitted as it...

You apply Rainex to the inside of the windscreen as well? Presume this helps with the condensation?

Do the scoops have anything that goes on the inside of the roof to direct the air, or blank it out if you don't want air coming in? Luke, didn't you say that you could just use the original hose and bend it around? - saves having to buy a 180 degree piece surely.

Whoops, well the recommendation is there if you need your wheels refurbished!!

It might be a bit of a drive for you, was for me also but it was worthwhile - Paintituk in Billericay, Essex, they've done a fantastic job twice now on two sets of F1's. I'm really picky and haven’t been able to find any faults in either set. Was £225 Inc the centre caps being sprayed as they...

I've just been on the phone to AeroCatch (Specialty Fasteners) and they now do a metal back-plate with captive-nuts - to save having to faff around with those fiddly little nuts and washers with one hand while trying to screw with the other hand. Am fitting some AeroCatches to my boot and have...

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He I was just typing a response and then re-read your post, by vents you don’t mean window-sliders but actual vents that direct air where you want? - Good idea if so, I hadn't thought of that. I still have the...

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Thanks Mark

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He James, have you fitted a roof scoop? If so where did you get it from?

Thanks Luke. Noted re clip. Have you fitted a roof scoop?, if so where did you get it from?

Luke, is that the same pipe but just bent around? (Looks like a jubilee clip would be more secure)

Have gone for a TRS 6-point 3" shoulder / 3" lap harness in the end from Demon Tweeks, the guy there recommended using the Schroth guide for recommended mounting points too.

Thanks. Ok, another job to add to the list.

Thanks. Am considering doing this myself, I just wondered if air would still come through the vents when driving along but just not heated or forced through by the blower - Basically like it used to do in 'old' cars.

Will air still come through the vents when the car is on the move without the blower and the two vents have been blocked-off?

Thanks James, possibly its always been doing this but I've only just recently noticed. And thanks Chip, I think the PAS fluid has recently been topped-up which would explain why I've only recently noticed it leaking out! I'll keep an eye on the level and not top it up and see how it goes.

Thanks Chip, much appreciated. I'll perhaps think about fitting a catch-tank at some point then which I can also use for the PAS 'overflow'.

Thanks Chip, I don’t have a catch-tank just have a small ITB breather filter. The fluid level in the PAS tank actually looks to be fine, obviously it was just getting hot on track, expanding and then forcing its way out through the pressure-cap. So apart from a bit of fluid leaking out now and...

My standard PAS tank appeared to be leaking following a day on track, didn't seam to be leaking from any cracks or a bad cap seal etc. I've since found out that the cap is a pressure-valve and that they're designed to let the pressure out through the valve in the centre of the cap and therefore...

A-ha, thanks Chip I did'nt know that. At what temp does it start getting dangerous then?

Looks great mate! - I’ve just had my track F1’s done orange! It’s just a bit of fun for the track and have plain black F1’s for the road.

I don’t have an oil-cooler on my track ITB’d 172 (215bhp/180ftlb) and I can spank it all day on track and according to the temperature gauge it never varies much from the 50% mark which is where it also stays in normal driving. Based on this I haven’t ever thought of fitting an additional cooler.

Thanks Mark, will take a look.