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​Hummm, ok, then perhaps same compound 888 but the wider 205 or 215 would provide the same grip but less wear??!!

As above! - Best pads I used when I had standard calipers in the 172, also used them in my old 200.

Thanks Chip, ok, wise words. I guess the less grip from a harder compound might be offset by the wider tire if i go down that route.

​I am tempted to try another make, if only for a temporary comparison and I end up back with the 888's. Am really happy with them in all conditions and the are just such a great tyre other than their wear rate and that they go off after about 15-22 minutes. The same tyre but in a slightly...

​Thanks Chip. I'm sure I'm running GG's, which are classed as Medium therefore I presumed there must be a Hard compound available. Although its not clear from what I can tell from a quick surf on t'net, like you say, the Medium's are actually the hardest compound, GGG is the Medium-Soft...

Have a think about the camber shims.......

Thanks guys. Clearance isn't a problem I think as I've chopped the outer front arches and I don't have any inner plastic arches anymore so shouldn't be a problem there, the rears will soon be rolled anyway (don't think this will give more than 5-10mm) but could always remove or reduce the 15mm...

The -1 degree shims will give you -2 as the rear has -1 already built into it therefore probably too much in total on the rear if you're only running -1.5 on the front. Personally I would take them out for the road, or if this is a track car then keep them and increase the front to -2.5 to -3...

I was just on the Toyo site as considering running slightly larger 205/50/15's next rather than the OEM 195/50/15's. The sizes & specification chart has a column marked "Approved Rim Width Range" with a minimum - ideal - maximum recommended rim width for each size of tyre. For example, for...

I'm down to 890kg with an empty tank now - but with no cage and fairly heavy Sabelt/RS buckets. Polycarb windows are next and then that's about it I think. Carbon/Fibreglass doors and tailgate would save a further few kg's but would need a cage then.

Sorry to hijack the thread - has anyone tried the hard 888's?

Demon Tweeks sell a QR boss by B&G (I think its called), I've got one and its a really nice bit of kit, cant remember the exact price but it was about £60 I think, would definitely recommend it over an eBay special.

Mine's doing the same, a bit annoying but its only on the road to and from the track at constant revs that I notice it, on the track the whole car buzzes.... Would be good to resolve it if you or anyone else manages to do so.

Couldn't tell you, but why not give Nick at PMS a call, best to hear it from the guy who designed it rather than all the 'experts' on CS.

The shifter kit worked fantastically at Brands last Thursday, no problems whatsoever - no problems selecting gears, no knocking on the tunnel. It'll turn out to be one of those fit & forget mods where through time I will forget just how much of an improvement it/was is over the standard set-up...

Thanks guys, sounds like I need some instruction anyway just to see if its me that's causing the understeering or the car. I've had a later geo print-out sent through, but not what I believe to be the latest and the settings are worse than those I listed before, it was set up by Al at TDF using...

​I don’t think so, I mostly drive the Brands Indy circuit and have had enough instruction to remember where to turn in but you of course may be correct. Next Thursday is the full GP circuit which I haven't driven before (have been a passenger) so I'll be getting some instruction anyway, will...

I think then actually it may help me, turn-in is no problem, its actually mid-end of the corner that i see understeer. Thanks for everyone's help.

Thanks guys. I've spoken with Simon at Track-Group and he's going to send me over the last geo print-out. He explained in layman's terms why my car had been set up as it had. i.e a bit of toe-out on the front to aid change of direction, but a touch of toe-in on the rear to help with...

Thanks Chip. That makes sense. On the basis that my last readings are the same then I'll leave it alone. Sorry, so is Toe-in a positive figure and the wheels are pointing inwards? ​What kind of Toe readings should I want on the front?

Oooh-err!!

Thanks Phil. So what Toe ideally do I want on the rear? Does a positive Toe figure, i.e. 0.11 mean the wheel is pointing inwards or outward from the car? I'm assuming from you saying "toe in" that they are pointing inwards, in which case fitting a 0.5 degree shim would presumably make the...

​Looks like I am un-protected then!! Probably one of my "this doesn't do anything so I'll rip it out" phases! I don’t go fast enough to worry about going off into the kitty-litter!! Thanks again, Mark.

Thanks Matt. I don’t think anything would've been physically attached to them as they didn't have any holes in them (other than the one to fix to the sub-frame), possibly they just supported something like the arch liners? Either way, thanks for your help.

Thanks Matt, yes, they're the ones! - What does the description say for them?

Again thanks for the help but this is getting ridiculous.... Do those vertical supports sound at all like 4" wide upturned triangles bolted to the subframe in-between the wishbone arms?!

Thanks everyone, I'm not sure now those readings are my very latest so am going to try and get the latest today and will re-post. Yes the car has always been corner-weighted. I don't think the readings will have changed dramatically since, but the 'old' readings show 2.26/2.27 Caster front...

Thanks Matt, would be good just out of curiosity.

Thanks Tony/Phill, still not 100% sure I fully understand but will take your word for it. Just had a look at the latest geo readings and I'm -3.12 both sides on the front and -2.25 and -2.46 on the rear, so would you recommend nothing, or 0.5 or 1.0 shims? Plus is it worth increasing the front...

Thanks for all the help but is no one listening to what I've wrote? - they're small upturned triangles pointing upwards approx 4" long fixed by one small bolt in-between the arms of the wishbones. The subframe support brackets fit none if those criteria.... My gut feeling is that they were...